2011 Pro Rmk TPS Question

[007sevens]

Quick question from you guys that have had to replace your throttle position sensor. My 2011 checks out in the garage. Parameters are where they should be .94-4.22. I'm running enough weight to not hit rev limiter. The thing just hits a wall and goes into limp mode until you back out of it. Run it up slowly it works better, hit the throttle and it will fall on its face. NO Det.

Just wondering if you guys had the same problems prior to changing out the TPS. I suspect it to be the problem but not sure.

Any Ideas

 

[Jordan1924]

Mine 2011 was doing same thing until got tps adjusted then was fine after that....

 

[andrew3399]

Quick question I'm running enough weight to not hit rev limiter. The thing just hits a wall and goes into limp mode until you back out of it. Run it up slowly it works better, hit the throttle and it will fall on its face. NO Det.

Just wondering if you guys had the same problems prior to changing out the TPS. I suspect it to be the problem but not sure.

Any Ideas

What rpm does it fall off to? Have you checked exhaust bellows lately. I had one torn and it broke up almost like electrical ignition break up and fall to7000. Just an idea if tps will read all the way to max 4.22.

 

[polaris011]

I replaced my tps the sled ran like that before now runs pretty good

 

[TimG]

Did you measure the TPS voltage with the throttle bodies fully closed? It must be 0.700 volts in this state. Then you adjust idle until it is at 0.94 volts. Checking just the idle does no good because it is simply a reference from the fully closed position. Also, it's better to check voltage at the ECM than at the TPS itself, since it will reveal any problems in connections etc. between the TPS and ECM.

Back off idle screw until throttle bodies are fully closed. Then feed 12V into the "ECM PWR" connector above the primary clutch. Orange is +, brown is -. Next, check for 5 Volt signal at the ECM. You'll find this at cavity #24 on the lower ECM plug (RED/WHITE wire- back probe with a paper clip with connector plugged in to ECM). You must have 4.99-5.01 V there.

Now check the signal wire coming from the TPS at the ECM- cavity #7 (AQUA wire, again, back probe with a paper clip). With the throttle bodies fully closed, it should be 0.700 volts. If it's out, adjust the TPS. Then set idle to 0.94 volts by adjusting the idle screw.

 

[007sevens]

Thanks I check this and see.

Did you measure the TPS voltage with the throttle bodies fully closed? It must be 0.700 volts in this state. Then you adjust idle until it is at 0.94 volts. Checking just the idle does no good because it is simply a reference from the fully closed position. Also, it's better to check voltage at the ECM than at the TPS itself, since it will reveal any problems in connections etc. between the TPS and ECM.

Back off idle screw until throttle bodies are fully closed. Then feed 12V into the "ECM PWR" connector above the primary clutch. Orange is +, brown is -. Next, check for 5 Volt signal at the ECM. You'll find this at cavity #24 on the lower ECM plug (RED/WHITE wire- back probe with a paper clip with connector plugged in to ECM). You must have 4.99-5.01 V there.

Now check the signal wire coming from the TPS at the ECM- cavity #7 (AQUA wire, again, back probe with a paper clip). With the throttle bodies fully closed, it should be 0.700 volts. If it's out, adjust the TPS. Then set idle to 0.94 volts by adjusting the idle screw.

 

[michaud2307]

That's the kind of answer I like!! No bull****, fool proof and have a good day


Sent from my iPhone using

 

[gedakbx]

Quick question from you guys that have had to replace your throttle position sensor. My 2011 checks out in the garage. Parameters are where they should be .94-4.22. I'm running enough weight to not hit rev limiter. The thing just hits a wall and goes into limp mode until you back out of it. Run it up slowly it works better, hit the throttle and it will fall on its face. NO Det.

Just wondering if you guys had the same problems prior to changing out the TPS. I suspect it to be the problem but not sure.

Any Ideas

So there is no lights or anything? We are going through the same with a 2011 pro right now.

 

[j335]

2012 Pro: Wouldn't idle without trottle, couldn't go into reverse, etc... The code said failed throttle position sensor. Tried adjusting throttle, drying out most connections including TPS connection, tried adjusting TPS (worked for a few mins after this). Ended up replacing the TPS & wiring harness. Worked awesome after this, loaded up on my truck and then sold it while it still worked!

I heard the 2013 got an upgraded wiring harness which helped with alot of these bogging issues on the 11 & 12's. I would just go ahead and replace the TPS and see if that cures it. Then the wiring harness... I'd rather spend the money than be frustrated riding on a deep powder day. Good luck!

 

[007sevens]

So there is no lights or anything? We are going through the same with a 2011 pro right now.

No check engine lights that I have seen. However its the kids sled so an engine light might have been on at one time.

 

[gedakbx]

how many Km on the sled this one is my buddies and it has 2200 km he bought it used. We are going to go right through it this week end.

 

[cschmidt17]

I got a 11 pro 163, runs awesome when its cold, but when it gets up to temperature it starts bogging! rev to about 8100RPM then bog hard to about 6700-6900RPM. Possible TPS Problem? in the shop right now so hopefully they can get it figured!

 

[007sevens]

Just thought I would bring this up again to let everybody know what I found. TPS was out of adjustment. The primary spring was the problem. Its seems it wasn't that long ago I changed it but it was pouched. This was the main reason for my problems

 

[007sevens]

Did you measure the TPS voltage with the throttle bodies fully closed? It must be 0.700 volts in this state. Then you adjust idle until it is at 0.94 volts. Checking just the idle does no good because it is simply a reference from the fully closed position. Also, it's better to check voltage at the ECM than at the TPS itself, since it will reveal any problems in connections etc. between the TPS and ECM.

Back off idle screw until throttle bodies are fully closed. Then feed 12V into the "ECM PWR" connector above the primary clutch. Orange is +, brown is -. Next, check for 5 Volt signal at the ECM. You'll find this at cavity #24 on the lower ECM plug (RED/WHITE wire- back probe with a paper clip with connector plugged in to ECM). You must have 4.99-5.01 V there.

Now check the signal wire coming from the TPS at the ECM- cavity #7 (AQUA wire, again, back probe with a paper clip). With the throttle bodies fully closed, it should be 0.700 volts. If it's out, adjust the TPS. Then set idle to 0.94 volts by adjusting the idle screw.

This was spot on. The only way to set your TPS. All other attempts where unsuccessful till now. Thank you

 

[Gunnerthesnowman]

This was spot on. The only way to set your TPS. All other attempts where unsuccessful till now. Thank you

007 sevens , if you are running the ViPec ECU , just power up your ECU with 12V thought the said ECU ( ECM) power connector , then connect to the ViPec with your laptop , go to run time values , you can see your TPS voltage there , no need to tap into any wires .

 

[007sevens]

007 sevens , if you are running the ViPec ECU , just power up your ECU with 12V thought the said ECU ( ECM) power connector , then connect to the ViPec with your laptop , go to run time values , you can see your TPS voltage there , no need to tap into any wires .

No Vipec on my 2011. Just on the 2013

 

[tnt-salvage]

im testing my tps right now and i am getting 5.4volts where its stated 4.99-5.10 volts. im using a snap-on digital multimeter show it should be a good reading. how would i adjust this back to 4.99-5.1 volts or what is causing this reading? also before i closed the throttle bodies and checked the base, the idle is giving me a reading of 0.81 so that is also out of spec. i will now check the base line, but im not sure if the 5.4 volts is going to cause me an issue once i set base and idle? thanks guys

 

[Turts]

How are you powering up the ECU?
5.4 will be close enough.
Loosen everything off to check your base setting.
Turn in the screw to set the idle voltage, adjust your throttle cable to take up almost all the slack and go ride!!



Turts, typing on Tapatalk

 

[tnt-salvage]

i am powering the ecu using a 12v battery pluged into the ecu power plug above the primary clutch. (orange and brown wires) then i back probed the red/white wire on the lower ecu plug and it reads 5.4 volts the blue wire on the same ecu plug in number 7 is reading 0.81

sorry for the doubt but i just read a post on snowest and this has me confused as to what i should do. just set it at the .700 and .930 or should i factor in the difference of the powered voltage

I ended up Buying a 2012 800 Pro rmk about 2 weeks ago. I have about 100 miles on it and have been having problems with it going into reverse. Sometimes when you push the button the motor slows down and seems like it went into reverse but its still in forward not all the time but at times.

Read a lot about how the TPS could be an issue for this so I got myself a good tester and started to do all the checking to see how the settings were.

First off I checked the base voltage and with my fluke meter I am getting 5.134 volts with the engine idling. Now i have other meters as well and have verified that this seems to be right. Cheaper 2 other meters I have show 5.11 and 5.14 volts.

Right now the base setting is .738 volts and the idle setting is .956 volts

Ironically I have a old Samsung phone charger that has 5.133 volts output so this is how i can set the base and idle settings.

If it is safe to setup with this voltage do I add the 2.68% to the .70 base rate or just set it up at .700 and .930 idle?



guy replied said: I would set it to the .700 specs and try it...should be fine...



op: OK got the TPS reset.

Used the 5.133 volts as the reference volts as this is the volts coming into the tps and set the the base at .70 and the idle at .930. Will take it out to test in the next day or two when it warms up a little. I know others say that it starts on the first pull now but mine does not. it takes 2 sometimes 3 pulls to start. The idle seems to be rougher then before. RPM's very from 1650 to 2000 rpm. Might have to adjust a little more but will try it first.


next reply: I would use a proper 5.00V source to set your Base and Idle settings, or adjust for the 2.68% difference in your case. There is a reason the service manual specifies a 4.999 - 5.000 reference voltage. Your values adjusted to a 5.00V reference would be 0.682V and 0.906V, both out of spec. It doesn't sound like much, but these things are VERY sensitive to being setup correctly. Most likely this is the cause of your rough idle. JMO


final comment from op: OK this is what I ended up doing. First off talked to a mechanic friend and he said to check all the electrical plugs and make sure there is no moisture in any of them so this is what i did and blew them all out with air this morning let it dry all day and put dielectric grease in them all.

after I put all the plugs together tonight I check the input voltage on the TPS and it now reads 5.003 volts with the engine running so close enough now.

Now I have bought 3 9 volt batteries and 6, 5 volt regulators from "The Source" ( used to be radio shack in Alberta) and all of them are out by 2% to 2.5%

So I just used my Samsung charger and set the TPS with a 2.68% error factored in. So with 5.133 volts I set the base setting at .719 which is 2.68% more then .70 and the Idle at .955 which is 2.68% more then .930

Now after i hooked the TPS plug together I then started the engine and checked the idle voltage to see how close the setting is and i got a .928 volt reading with the engine running. SO I would say this is good to go.

Took it out for a rip and RPM's are up about 100 to 150 from before and runs crisp and smooth. Idle is much better now and reverse works good.

Very happy with the results.

 

[007sevens]

i am powering the ecu using a 12v battery pluged into the ecu power plug above the primary clutch. (orange and brown wires) then i back probed the red/white wire on the lower ecu plug and it reads 5.4 volts the blue wire on the same ecu plug in number 7 is reading 0.81

sorry for the doubt but i just read a post on snowest and this has me confused as to what i should do. just set it at the .700 and .930 or should i factor in the difference of the powered voltage

I ended up Buying a 2012 800 Pro rmk about 2 weeks ago. I have about 100 miles on it and have been having problems with it going into reverse. Sometimes when you push the button the motor slows down and seems like it went into reverse but its still in forward not all the time but at times.

Read a lot about how the TPS could be an issue for this so I got myself a good tester and started to do all the checking to see how the settings were.

First off I checked the base voltage and with my fluke meter I am getting 5.134 volts with the engine idling. Now i have other meters as well and have verified that this seems to be right. Cheaper 2 other meters I have show 5.11 and 5.14 volts.

Right now the base setting is .738 volts and the idle setting is .956 volts

Ironically I have a old Samsung phone charger that has 5.133 volts output so this is how i can set the base and idle settings.

If it is safe to setup with this voltage do I add the 2.68% to the .70 base rate or just set it up at .700 and .930 idle?



guy replied said: I would set it to the .700 specs and try it...should be fine...



op: OK got the TPS reset.

Used the 5.133 volts as the reference volts as this is the volts coming into the tps and set the the base at .70 and the idle at .930. Will take it out to test in the next day or two when it warms up a little. I know others say that it starts on the first pull now but mine does not. it takes 2 sometimes 3 pulls to start. The idle seems to be rougher then before. RPM's very from 1650 to 2000 rpm. Might have to adjust a little more but will try it first.


next reply: I would use a proper 5.00V source to set your Base and Idle settings, or adjust for the 2.68% difference in your case. There is a reason the service manual specifies a 4.999 - 5.000 reference voltage. Your values adjusted to a 5.00V reference would be 0.682V and 0.906V, both out of spec. It doesn't sound like much, but these things are VERY sensitive to being setup correctly. Most likely this is the cause of your rough idle. JMO


final comment from op: OK this is what I ended up doing. First off talked to a mechanic friend and he said to check all the electrical plugs and make sure there is no moisture in any of them so this is what i did and blew them all out with air this morning let it dry all day and put dielectric grease in them all.

after I put all the plugs together tonight I check the input voltage on the TPS and it now reads 5.003 volts with the engine running so close enough now.

Now I have bought 3 9 volt batteries and 6, 5 volt regulators from "The Source" ( used to be radio shack in Alberta) and all of them are out by 2% to 2.5%

So I just used my Samsung charger and set the TPS with a 2.68% error factored in. So with 5.133 volts I set the base setting at .719 which is 2.68% more then .70 and the Idle at .955 which is 2.68% more then .930

Now after i hooked the TPS plug together I then started the engine and checked the idle voltage to see how close the setting is and i got a .928 volt reading with the engine running. SO I would say this is good to go.

Took it out for a rip and RPM's are up about 100 to 150 from before and runs crisp and smooth. Idle is much better now and reverse works good.

Very happy with the results.

Kinda confusing reading your post but it seems you got it right. To answer you question about the voltage in plug with red/white wire. You just want to make sure you are getting a strong 5 volts. so 5.4 volts is perfect you cant adjust this and there is no need to. If you found 3 volts you would not be able to set you TPS as you would have other problems.