oler1234
Active VIP Member
Great info I am looking for in comparison with my setup! Track speeds are a tuning tool to help figure clutching and gauge if adjustments are correct or not
2 great days on the t3!!
- Thread starter maxwell
- Start date
Great info I am looking for in comparison with my setup! Track speeds are a tuning tool to help figure clutching and gauge if adjustments are correct or not
fredw
Active VIP Member
One thing I instanly found when going to the 174 from the 163, is that there was more resistance to turning, the longer track pushes forward harder, causing more work needed to do same turn
Track speeds are a great running tool, used them many times to fine tune clutching, what is final gearing on the t3 174
Track speeds are a great running tool, used them many times to fine tune clutching, what is final gearing on the t3 174
- Staff
- #64
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2006
- Messages
- 48,082
- Reaction score
- 32,189
- Location
- Edmonton/Sherwood Park
- Website
- www.bumpertobumper.ca
how many ordered extra tethers?
bingo1010
Active VIP Member
i never got one yet, hoping not to have to, i honestly think doo should include 2 with each sled, you get 2 when you buy a new vehicle
If you always ride with the same guys you can get one extra programed for all the sleds
Comparing dirt bikes or whatever you guys think, and track speeds between sleds doesn't work. Saying a 250 trials bike outclimbs a 450 MX bike in an extremely limited application is not apples to apples. Kinda like saying the reason why big boosted 300 HP sleds will top a hill at 60 mph compared to a stocker at 13 mph, even with same track length. They can pull the track at higher track speed, which means they maintain that ground speed and momentum farther up the hill. Its only an advantage though where you can maintain it, and probably more of a detriment in the trees where you cant.
The elevation of the mountains plays havoc on clutching, so riding at 1500 ft and saying 42 mph track speed and then some guy comparing at 6500 ft and saying their only getting 38 mph track speed isn't the same either. The thing with clutching is that there is always be a slight overrev, then speed begins to drop as full shift out occurs so true "track speed" is measured at the end of a climb or should be an average, not initially or what the playback shows as the highest reading recorded. Caper figured this out, real track speed was probably closer to 39-41 than 45 mph. For most clutching applications, there is too much finish weight which pulls the final RPM down. Lots of guys shoot for a linear shift like you'd find in a drag clutch, and should be looking to compensate for that RPM drop by increasing the tail end instead, especially when climbing as gravity, slope angle, snow conditions, etc are not as uniform on the side of a mountain as they are on a flat race track. Let's not even get into the factors like snow, rider weight, etc etc etc that could affect track speed on any given day. Worrying about a 3 mph track speed difference between sleds is splitting hairs IMO.
Because we are limited by only springs and weights and combinations thereof, you can't really achieve perfection in clutching, all you can do it tailor it to your specific application the best you can and then accept its the best you can do. You shouldn't necessarily be looking for "highest" track speed if you spend most of the day in the trees, on and off the throttle. I'd be looking for better backshifting characteristics in this scenario, where you will need to move the RPM back up. Getting more backshift might mean you sacrifice "track speed" on the big hills comparable to someone else, but if that set up works the best for what you ride, who cares about the track speed. If you want the highest track speed for climbing, then maybe you'd need to tweak the primary maybe and use a different finish rate to get into full shift faster to build initial momentum (random examples but just sayin, everything is different).
The elevation of the mountains plays havoc on clutching, so riding at 1500 ft and saying 42 mph track speed and then some guy comparing at 6500 ft and saying their only getting 38 mph track speed isn't the same either. The thing with clutching is that there is always be a slight overrev, then speed begins to drop as full shift out occurs so true "track speed" is measured at the end of a climb or should be an average, not initially or what the playback shows as the highest reading recorded. Caper figured this out, real track speed was probably closer to 39-41 than 45 mph. For most clutching applications, there is too much finish weight which pulls the final RPM down. Lots of guys shoot for a linear shift like you'd find in a drag clutch, and should be looking to compensate for that RPM drop by increasing the tail end instead, especially when climbing as gravity, slope angle, snow conditions, etc are not as uniform on the side of a mountain as they are on a flat race track. Let's not even get into the factors like snow, rider weight, etc etc etc that could affect track speed on any given day. Worrying about a 3 mph track speed difference between sleds is splitting hairs IMO.
Because we are limited by only springs and weights and combinations thereof, you can't really achieve perfection in clutching, all you can do it tailor it to your specific application the best you can and then accept its the best you can do. You shouldn't necessarily be looking for "highest" track speed if you spend most of the day in the trees, on and off the throttle. I'd be looking for better backshifting characteristics in this scenario, where you will need to move the RPM back up. Getting more backshift might mean you sacrifice "track speed" on the big hills comparable to someone else, but if that set up works the best for what you ride, who cares about the track speed. If you want the highest track speed for climbing, then maybe you'd need to tweak the primary maybe and use a different finish rate to get into full shift faster to build initial momentum (random examples but just sayin, everything is different).
Thunder101
Active member
Very good post Modman! Thx.
On the M sleds I liked the "open" helix so you could adjusts secondary spring pressure to help with fine tuning for specific riding.
Tight for trees
loose for making Miles's.
As you said so many variables .
after reading a good post like that I forgot OP was telling us how great the DooLaid was
On the M sleds I liked the "open" helix so you could adjusts secondary spring pressure to help with fine tuning for specific riding.
Tight for trees
loose for making Miles's.
As you said so many variables .
after reading a good post like that I forgot OP was telling us how great the DooLaid was
Last edited:
ferniesnow
I'm doo-ing it!
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2008
- Messages
- 112,532
- Reaction score
- 86,578
- Location
- beautiful, downtown Salmon Arm, BC
I will add to this just a little. If you ride the trees 90 mph, then the turning radius is noticeable. If one is looking and searching for lines, without the flipper to the bar, the 174 isn't really any different than the 163. Lots of floatation, decision making time, and the gearing and the track really hook up. I have spent the last two days in a little bit of heaven.
Thank you BRP and Bow Ridge Sports................
- Staff
- #70
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2006
- Messages
- 48,082
- Reaction score
- 32,189
- Location
- Edmonton/Sherwood Park
- Website
- www.bumpertobumper.ca
Getting mine next week 
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
RaspberryNytro
Active VIP Member
Spent all weekend giving my T3 174 the gears( so to speak)...
Absolutely love the way it handles the steep and deep !!! Broke trail for a day or two and it handled the bottomless just as I hoped it would. The next two days were spent making miles in colder weather and set up snow, and it performed like a 174 should... above all others
Flotation and hook-up was noticed not only by myself, but also opposite brand riders. They had a little seat time on another 174 in my group and they were pleasantly impressed. May have even drawn one over to DOOLAID
Had a few alterations done previous to first ride, so can't compare mine from stock, but did get a little seat time on another Big Banana and would have to say that the TSS pipe combo, shockwave and spring combo is a pleasant addition... Shockwave is nice and easy adjustability on the hill, as snow conditions, elevation, etc, can change during the day. Clicker 1 and had to turn in the shockwave a bit to bring RPM up once on the hill. Pulled hard from bottom, all the way throughout.
Tree riding was as easy as pie and had no issues with turning in and out, as long as route was pre-planned haha.
Stop an go was amazing due to the addd flotation... once or twice i was thought to be stuck and I just gave a little "pin and wiggle"... out she came !!! The ease of getting it layed over on it's side with "wrong foot forward", and my top foot walking along the slope to keep it up the slope, breaking trail for the less-agile sleds, it's a sled that will impress more than a few !!!
Stock sled ripped, but I love mine and am hoping that once fully broke in ( 42% left ), this thing will stretch my arms out and widen my ****-eating grin, even more than it already has !!!
RN
Absolutely love the way it handles the steep and deep !!! Broke trail for a day or two and it handled the bottomless just as I hoped it would. The next two days were spent making miles in colder weather and set up snow, and it performed like a 174 should... above all others
Flotation and hook-up was noticed not only by myself, but also opposite brand riders. They had a little seat time on another 174 in my group and they were pleasantly impressed. May have even drawn one over to DOOLAID
Had a few alterations done previous to first ride, so can't compare mine from stock, but did get a little seat time on another Big Banana and would have to say that the TSS pipe combo, shockwave and spring combo is a pleasant addition... Shockwave is nice and easy adjustability on the hill, as snow conditions, elevation, etc, can change during the day. Clicker 1 and had to turn in the shockwave a bit to bring RPM up once on the hill. Pulled hard from bottom, all the way throughout.
Tree riding was as easy as pie and had no issues with turning in and out, as long as route was pre-planned haha.
Stop an go was amazing due to the addd flotation... once or twice i was thought to be stuck and I just gave a little "pin and wiggle"
... out she came !!! The ease of getting it layed over on it's side with "wrong foot forward", and my top foot walking along the slope to keep it up the slope, breaking trail for the less-agile sleds, it's a sled that will impress more than a few !!! Stock sled ripped, but I love mine and am hoping that once fully broke in ( 42% left ), this thing will stretch my arms out and widen my ****-eating grin, even more than it already has !!!
RN
Similar threads
