1995 Polaris XLT 600 triple Bog. HELP!!!

[joe-bert]

My brother-in-law just bought a 1995 Polaris Xlt 600 triple. It has a bog in the low end rpms under acceleration but it sucks away the power from the top end as well. We had a couple runs today where it didn't bog and pulled hard through the power band but it has started to bog again. We checked the plugs and they look a little gummy so it likely needs the carbs cleaned, and possibly running rich? But I have no idea how to adjust carbs. Is there any other possible issues that could be causing this?

Also, the belt sits about a 1/16 of an inch below the edge of the secondary, and it seems to have a little bit of play left to right in the primary, so I'm not sure if this could be linked to it as well?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!

 

[Bogger]

I hate those sleds.... I had one with a bog and tried everything even brought in the experts and couldn't figure it out.....ended up giving the POS away

Sorry I know that's not any help...but I needed to vent.

My brother-in-law just bought a 1995 Polaris Xlt 600 triple. It has a bog in the low end rpms under acceleration but it sucks away the power from the top end as well. We had a couple runs today where it didn't bog and pulled hard through the power band but it has started to bog again. We checked the plugs and they look a little gummy so it likely needs the carbs cleaned, and possibly running rich? But I have no idea how to adjust carbs. Is there any other possible issues that could be causing this?

Also, the belt sits about a 1/16 of an inch below the edge of the secondary, and it seems to have a little bit of play left to right in the primary, so I'm not sure if this could be linked to it as well?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!

 

[mountainbigbull]

I would check that secondary, sounds like something not right. Shouldn't sit that low with belt that loose. Sounds like clutching problem to me. With bogs clutches are the first place to check not the last!

 

[papajake]

synchronize your carbs would be the first thing my old xlt ran like sh.t when one was off then check your secondary as the button wear out and jam the sleeves then check the weight bolts and rollers on the drive clutch, i did this every spring and would find small repairs the old clutches were high maintenance

 

[retiredpop]

On the older sleds the drive belt did not sit as high in the secondary as they do now. You want to check the belt deflection by laying a straight edge on top of the belt that is long enough to span both clutches. Push down on the belt midway between the clutches and measure the amount of distance between the bottom of the straight edge and the top of the belt where you are pushing down. It should measure 1.25". Just make sure you don't push down so hard that you force the belt down into the secondary clutch. To adjust the belt deflection there are 3 bolts on an adjustment cam on the outside of the secondary clutch. Loosen them and turn the collar towards position #1 to decrease the distance between the secondary clutch sheaves which will give less deflection and make the belt ride higher in the secondary. Those XLTs were very fussy about having proper belt deflection. Make sure that the proper belt is installed on the sled too. It should be Polaris 3211042 or equivalent. As far as the belt play in the primary there should be .020" clearance between the edge of the belt and the clutch sheave. To check push the belt to one side in the primary and use a feeler gauge to measure the distance. Limits are .005" to .035". If you are out of limits then try a new belt. If that doesn't work you need to get a shop to change shims under the spider which requires special tools.
It could be the jetting is wrong for your elevation and temperature. For cleaning information just Google "cleaning snowmobile carbs".

 

[joe-bert]

That is absolutely awesome information! Thank you so much for your help! Time to do some tinkering before our next snowfall!'

 

[duck]

You also might want to confirm the jetting, needles, main jets, etc as stock. Alot of triple pipes were sold for these in the day which required different jetting. Clutch's are first place to go for bogging issues, then synching the carbs as suggested.

 

[Steve D]

You can get the bog out of'em, mine was notorious for it because I never jetted/clutched for elevation - I was usually "close enough" but when ingesting a bunch of snow as the carbs froze up a bit it would start to bog. Stop for a bit, let it idle if cold, it'd eventually warm itself up to thaw out. Usually best to let it idle for a while then shut it off - ran best on cold pipe too! Haha... I do NOT miss those days... EFI is so nice for lazy bastards like me!

Also, the belt in my secondary was always about a 1/8th most above the sheaves of the secondary. Think of it this way, drive your truck around town in one gear too high for whatever speed you want to be doing. Top end will suffer too with clutches because belt on the secondary runs "out of gear" before the primary. Smarter people than me will be able to explain it better (and tune'em better), but that was what was told to me once upon a time and it ran "close enough" for me to be happy. Most of the time.