06 summit primary clutch grenaded, twice!

[summ-it-up]

bear with me here...

so i've been having some clutch problems lately. first trip to the mountains ended after the first day b/c my primary went kaboom. i had just put new rollers and bushings in before the trip.(yes i used new cotter pins) the sled ran great for the first half the day, and then it wouldn't rev out, only to 7000 or so. it ran like that the rest of the day and then on the trail down i knew something was pretty wrong. got to the truck and heard some klanking, took a look and there was parts every where. levers busted in half and pins and rollers layin on the belly pan.

got home, tore it apart ended up putting in new ramps, rollers, bushings, levers, pins, weights, spring and a spring cup. all oem.

i wasn't sure what had caused it, but my best guess was that the sping cup broke and left the primary running off balance. i consulted the dealers mechanic, he inspected the setup and figured about the same as i. i figured i would put it all together and try my luck, maybe i had fixed the problem. ran the sled for 2 trips to swan hills and all seemed ok. inspected the clutch and it was good.

so fast forward, last weekend in valemount, riding chapel, same thing as the first trip of the year. started having issues with revs, ran it back to the truck, tore the clutch off and low and behold, broken spring cup and the rollers were pooched. and now the end of the splined shaft on the fixed half is busted, a chunck of the splines and shaft broke off.

now here i sit. not sure what is causing this. i know pretty much need a new clutch, as the even the sliding half is probably screwed because of all the abuse it took with levers ect... breaking.

anybody have/heard of this and know what my issue may be? i'm supposed to be in sicamouse in the beginning of feb, so i'm really hoping to get on this.

also, my buddy keeps telling me, put a polaris clutch on- solve all your problems he says. i'm not so convinced,

what you figure?

 

[jlieske1]

Check your crankshaft runout. Should be a max of 2 thous. Anymore and it will take out clutches and main bearings. Don't mean to scare you.

 

[Bernoff]

bear with me here...

so i've been having some clutch problems lately. first trip to the mountains ended after the first day b/c my primary went kaboom. i had just put new rollers and bushings in before the trip.(yes i used new cotter pins) the sled ran great for the first half the day, and then it wouldn't rev out, only to 7000 or so. it ran like that the rest of the day and then on the trail down i knew something was pretty wrong. got to the truck and heard some klanking, took a look and there was parts every where. levers busted in half and pins and rollers layin on the belly pan.

got home, tore it apart ended up putting in new ramps, rollers, bushings, levers, pins, weights, spring and a spring cup. all oem.

i wasn't sure what had caused it, but my best guess was that the sping cup broke and left the primary running off balance. i consulted the dealers mechanic, he inspected the setup and figured about the same as i. i figured i would put it all together and try my luck, maybe i had fixed the problem. ran the sled for 2 trips to swan hills and all seemed ok. inspected the clutch and it was good.

so fast forward, last weekend in valemount, riding chapel, same thing as the first trip of the year. started having issues with revs, ran it back to the truck, tore the clutch off and low and behold, broken spring cup and the rollers were pooched. and now the end of the splined shaft on the fixed half is busted, a chunck of the splines and shaft broke off.

now here i sit. not sure what is causing this. i know pretty much need a new clutch, as the even the sliding half is probably screwed because of all the abuse it took with levers ect... breaking.

anybody have/heard of this and know what my issue may be? i'm supposed to be in sicamouse in the beginning of feb, so i'm really hoping to get on this.

also, my buddy keeps telling me, put a polaris clutch on- solve all your problems he says. i'm not so convinced,

what you figure?

Did you use any of the original clutch parts from the first trip might have had more huched pieces than you thought. The way you decribed the first wreck it must have been pretty nasty

 

[summ-it-up]

Check your crankshaft runout. Should be a max of 2 thous. Anymore and it will take out clutches and main bearings. Don't mean to scare you.

how do i check that? or is that something i need to bring it in for?

Did you use any of the original clutch parts from the first trip might have had more huched pieces than you thought. The way you decribed the first wreck it must have been pretty nasty

aside from the major parts, the only thing i didn't replace was the bushing in the sliding half that sits on the splined shaft.

 

[jlieske1]

You need a dial indicator and a mag base. It's pretty easy to do, once you use a clutch puller to remove the clutch, you set the dial indicator up a 1/4" from the end of the pto stub. Then put the clutch bolt back in and pull your spark plugs. Rotate the engine over slowly and note the dial movement. The mag base needs to attached to the engine to be accurate which is tough to get a solid mount because most of the engine is aluminum but it can be strapped to the engine or you can make a mount that uses an existing bolt on the engine.

 

[jlieske1]

Check this out. http://www.mxzx-revzone.com/article/-162.asp . Lots of good info on clutches and I was wrong about the 1/4" it should be 1/8" from the end of the shaft.

 

[The Arborist]

You need to check the pressed in brass bushing in the sliding half where it meets the shaft, if it is worn enough you will be able to feel a ridge on the sliding half right at the shaft.
It goes out of balance, and things go bad quick. The only thing I could salvage from my clutch were two arms:0

 

[summ-it-up]

You need to check the pressed in brass bushing in the sliding half where it meets the shaft, if it is worn enough you will be able to feel a ridge on the sliding half right at the shaft.
It goes out of balance, and things go bad quick. The only thing I could salvage from my clutch were two arms:0

that was the pretty much the only bushing i didn't replace, think i better inspect that a bit closer.

 

[summ-it-up]

You need a dial indicator and a mag base. It's pretty easy to do, once you use a clutch puller to remove the clutch, you set the dial indicator up a 1/4" from the end of the pto stub. Then put the clutch bolt back in and pull your spark plugs. Rotate the engine over slowly and note the dial movement. The mag base needs to attached to the engine to be accurate which is tough to get a solid mount because most of the engine is aluminum but it can be strapped to the engine or you can make a mount that uses an existing bolt on the engine.

so i checked the deflection, but i forgot the part about the point having to be a 1/8" from the end of the crank. it was probably more like half an inch. i guess i have to do it again huh? it read that it was out .010", which would definitely be the source of my problems if it was that bad. i'll check again in the morning.

 

[summ-it-up]

ok, checked it again, definitely screwed, .011" was the final reading, providing i did everything right.

just to make sure, when i first set it up i zeroed it, and then when i pulled it over it would go positive numbers and then back past zero into negative. so i zeroed it when it was as low as it went. was that correct?

 

[jlieske1]

Ya you got it. That suck's. I just had the same thing happen to mine, I did a short block in mine. Depending on how many mile you have on your engine that might be your best bet too.

 

[summ-it-up]

Ya you got it. That suck's. I just had the same thing happen to mine, I did a short block in mine. Depending on how many mile you have on your engine that might be your best bet too.

kinda figured i would go that route, its got about 5000km on the bottom end and 1200km on the top end. the dealers workin on the price for me including gaskets ect. what did you have to pay?

 

[jlieske1]

kinda figured i would go that route, its got about 5000km on the bottom end and 1200km on the top end. the dealers workin on the price for me including gaskets ect. what did you have to pay?

I got mine for $1800 (plus gst of course) from a buddy who got it from the dealer for me, it would have been $1900 if I went into the dealer myself. I think you are laughing if you got 5000km on the bottom end.