Winterizing your sled

[X-Treme]

What does everyone do to get the machines ready for the white stuff? I'd rather do the work myself and learn, than paying someone else to do it. Obviously, it should be full of engine oil and fuel, and grease all the zerks, but what else?

 

[007sevens]

What does everyone do to get the machines ready for the white stuff? I'd rather do the work myself and learn, than paying someone else to do it. Obviously, it should be full of engine oil and fuel, and grease all the zerks, but what else?

Well this year I'm gonna pull it down to the crank and replace all the parts that are melted.

 

[stormtrooper]

Good cleaning. Look for rubbed lines, leaks, check reeds, cracks in bulkhead, visual check on motor mounts, look for loose fasteners, check exhaust for cracks, check rear suspension wheels, check for rubbed wiring.....mostly visual.

 

[ferniesnow]

A good cleaning if it wasn't done in the spring. Visual inspection and I will take apart the clutches checking rollers, pucks, ramps, and springs and normally replace.

I doo the grease job at the end of the season to chase any water out after the spring riding.

 

[Jorgy]

As mention above, I grease at end of season to ensure no water sits the summer. Other than that I'll inspect and clean my clutch, primary and secondary, sand edge of belt lightly, re tension chain case chain, replace chaincase oil. I clean mine meticulously in the spring. I also polish my hps can so it looks brand new at the start of each season.

 

[HotShotHarry]

Dont forget to check track tension and alignment.

 

[lilduke]

I'm pretty well rebuilding my whole sled before the up coming season. Today I rebuilt the Primary.

I also figured out today that a Canadian Tire dumbbell is the best TRA7 clutch servicing tool in the world.

 

[CatMan16]

I'm pretty well rebuilding my whole sled before the up coming season. Today I rebuilt the Primary.

I also figured out today that a Canadian Tire dumbbell is the best TRA7 clutch servicing tool in the world.

[url]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo17/Lildukesledin/DSCF4971_zpsxtbjr9sz.jpg[/URL]

[url]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo17/Lildukesledin/DSCF4991_zps5pgz1ump.jpg[/URL]

[url]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo17/Lildukesledin/DSCF4993_zpsgmhqjv0f.jpg[/URL]

Had to read that twice. Usually the Canadian Tire Dumbell is the parts counter guy.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[lilduke]

Had to read that twice. Usually the Canadian Tire Dumbell is the parts counter guy.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Haha yep. But I meant these things. I had a set and was looking at them and thought, those would work perfect for a clutch tool.

 

[800HMX]

Haha yep. But I meant these things. I had a set and was looking at them and thought, those would work perfect for a clutch tool.

lilduke you put more miles and wear on your sled in one year than most of us do in 5-10yrs. Are you seeing anything unusual (not normal wear and tear) that we should be looking for on our sleds.

 

[lilduke]

lilduke you put more miles and wear on your sled in one year than most of us do in 5-10yrs. Are you seeing anything unusual (not normal wear and tear) that we should be looking for on our sleds.

What do you ride? The XM is pretty flawless. I might need a new track this season on the T3. Starting to crack and tear. it didnt like ice & gravel.
Wore out 2 pairs of Ski's last season. Going back to the DS2's on my sled, I like them better. The keels are too deep on the DS3's IMO.

 

[gdhillon]

Dont forget to check track tension and alignment.

Can you elaborate on how to do that?

 

[800HMX]

What do you ride? The XM is pretty flawless. I might need a new track this season on the T3. Starting to crack and tear. it didnt like ice & gravel.
Wore out 2 pairs of Ski's last season. Going back to the DS2's on my sled, I like them better. The keels are too deep on the DS3's IMO.

My ride is just a 2013 XP Sport that I long tracked to a 163, upgraded the shocks and added SLP SLT skis. Normal maintenance including grease, taking apart the primary and secondary for cleaning and changing the case oil every year. This is my 3rd XP and really nothing else to watch except the oil cable and maybe a quick once over on the hoses and wires. I replace what I break and sliders haven't been a problem with the 2.5 track.

With a 174 and/or 3" track, chain wear might be more of an issue and worth checking.

Some guys with higher mileage have changed driveshaft bearings and the secondary shaft bearing. It doesn't take much of a hit to tweak either of the front modules. Shock rebuild (especially on the rear) might be something to look at (had one set of shocks revalved to MXZ specs).

 

[lilduke]

My ride is just a 2013 XP Sport that I long tracked to a 163, upgraded the shocks and added SLP SLT skis. Normal maintenance including grease, taking apart the primary and secondary for cleaning and changing the case oil every year. This is my 3rd XP and really nothing else to watch except the oil cable and maybe a quick once over on the hoses and wires. I replace what I break and sliders haven't been a problem with the 2.5 track.

With a 174 and/or 3" track, chain wear might be more of an issue and worth checking.

Some guys with higher mileage have changed driveshaft bearings and the secondary shaft bearing. It doesn't take much of a hit to tweak either of the front modules. Shock rebuild (especially on the rear) might be something to look at (had one set of shocks revalved to MXZ specs).

That's a pretty good list. Here is what I'm doing: I am replacing all the bearings on the sled, all suspension bushings, new chain, rebuild clutches, new exhaust springs & gaskets, new plugs, rebuild shocks, new ball joints, new plastic,new sliders, new skis and skags, plus some mods

 

[ippielb]

I change the chaincase oil every year, cheap, it's only 8-16oz depending on the sled. I have ran transmission fluid DEX-4, no problems, it's designed to be used in transmissions and transfer cases where there's more torque going through it then a sled could ever put out.

One thing i really do is put it on the stand, start it up and let it go on the stand listen for any creaks, squeaks, and noises.

Grease every fitting and push all that old grease out. cycle the joint, then grease it a couple more times, wipe everything clean after.

 

[X-Treme]

That's a pretty good list. Here is what I'm doing: I am replacing all the bearings on the sled, all suspension bushings, new chain, rebuild clutches, new exhaust springs & gaskets, new plugs, rebuild shocks, new ball joints, new plastic,new sliders, new skis and skags, plus some mods

So, in other words, you're buying a '16...

 

[lilduke]

So, in other words, you're buying a '16...

Hopefully it will be a little better than a stock 16.

 

[01Sharp]

I'm gonna fill it with new gas, pull her till she goes, and pin it.....

 

[HotShotHarry]

Can you elaborate on how to do that?

The tension[sag when the rear of the sled is elevated] is adjustable. There are 2 adjustment bolts on either side of the rear axle. Use these bolts to true the track alignment and to adjust the sag . You should have about 1 inch of sag in the middle of the track when you apply 20 lbs of pull downwards at that point. Also check to see how thin the sliders are getting at the curve on the suspension rails. This is the point where they wear first. Replace if required. Hope this helps.

 

[gdhillon]

The tension[sag when the rear of the sled is elevated] is adjustable. There are 2 adjustment bolts on either side of the rear axle. Use these bolts to true the track alignment and to adjust the sag . You should have about 1 inch of sag in the middle of the track when you apply 20 lbs of pull downwards at that point. Also check to see how thin the sliders are getting at the curve on the suspension rails. This is the point where they wear first. Replace if required. Hope this helps.

Yes that makes sense, thanks.