who to get to rebuild my doo 800r crank ?

tex78

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just looking for the places to take it and not to take it too ....

i have heard so many storys about one place or another .... looking to get it done right the first time .... don't want bearing chit wrecking the top end again
 

overkill131313

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over all the reading it seems like most guys say it is cheaper in the long run to just buy a long block right from BRP! i think you even get a 1 year warranty?
 

maxwell

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motts machining in st albert. replaced the bearings on a crank for me and rephased it for 600. with dissasembely and assembely. holding up just fine.
 

DRD

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I've use Adrien Bernard in Que. for 4 or 5 shafts and never had a problem.
 

knee deep in it

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before spending money on a crank, make sure you are addressing the cause of the problem. Most 800R engines have experienced crank issues and getting a new shortblock seems to have been the solution
 

martushev800

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Motts Machining in St.Albert. Had great luck with them so far. Tom sure knows his stuff.
 

tex78

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Ya i all ready talked to al about it. He said to get a 2010 or newer crank cause they are stonger ect. That's y u don't see any issues with the new specs so far. He couldn't tell me where to get it done cause he's had bad ones from every where.
motts machining in st albert. replaced the bearings on a crank for me and rephased it for 600. with dissasembely and assembely. holding up just fine.
Ya I was going to call motts. My buddy gets all his 740 rotary mod stuff done there. But when I called there it seemed like he didn't have the time of day . Aa Bernard or cv tech. Well when i got my 600 crank don't there it went less than a year and they wouldn't warranty it. That was when the had all them bearings that sucked.
 

tex78

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Also this engine has 1200 miles on a warranty doo engine in 08-09. So not sure but that's not it either. Anyone on here use big John from dootalk for cranks or his big bore?
 

Sparky's

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Save your money and buy a Polaris! Ha Ha Or a short block if the new bottom ends are that much stronger! Hate to have pics of a Polaris pulling a ski-doo home on here!
 

sledshedrevy

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the way doo fixed the crankissue was done in the 2010 models , the hole for the clutch bolt is a shorter hole , makeing the shoulder of the pto stubb a lot stiffer . i have found the original pto stubb can bend a hair at the point were it comes off the pto bearing and most of the severe crank failures happened at this point .
i foound on the crank jig that you could true the crank so that the thing was straight and bolt it in the cases and it would show oout by way to much .
on further analysis i began to ,
jig the cranks so that i could measure them at the point were the edge of the pto bearing was
and low nd behold that is were the things were bending .even got back from the rebuilders this way .
best is to either buy a new crank from doo or buy the short block as they are greatly reduced now from what they ued to be .and you will get the new pto stub and make the r motor a way better motor than it originated as .
 

tex78

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the way doo fixed the crankissue was done in the 2010 models , the hole for the clutch bolt is a shorter hole , makeing the shoulder of the pto stubb a lot stiffer . i have found the original pto stubb can bend a hair at the point were it comes off the pto bearing and most of the severe crank failures happened at this point .
i foound on the crank jig that you could true the crank so that the thing was straight and bolt it in the cases and it would show oout by way to much .
on further analysis i began to ,
jig the cranks so that i could measure them at the point were the edge of the pto bearing was
and low nd behold that is were the things were bending .even got back from the rebuilders this way .
best is to either buy a new crank from doo or buy the short block as they are greatly reduced now from what they ued to be .and you will get the new pto stub and make the r motor a way better motor than it originated as .

thanks a bunch for the info al again ....

how do i tell the difference in the mounts between the xp and rev 800r?
 

tex78

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the way doo fixed the crankissue was done in the 2010 models , the hole for the clutch bolt is a shorter hole , makeing the shoulder of the pto stubb a lot stiffer . i have found the original pto stubb can bend a hair at the point were it comes off the pto bearing and most of the severe crank failures happened at this point .
i foound on the crank jig that you could true the crank so that the thing was straight and bolt it in the cases and it would show oout by way to much .
on further analysis i began to ,
jig the cranks so that i could measure them at the point were the edge of the pto bearing was
and low nd behold that is were the things were bending .even got back from the rebuilders this way .
best is to either buy a new crank from doo or buy the short block as they are greatly reduced now from what they ued to be .and you will get the new pto stub and make the r motor a way better motor than it originated as .

thanks a bunch for the info al again ....

how do i tell the difference in the mounts between the xp and rev 800r?
 

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