Who do you trust?

[Longhairfreak]

So I'm doing my research to build a 260+ hp M9000 ditch banger. Talked to 5 programmers and 4 people somewhat experienced in the 1100 turbo game. 3 out 5 programmers say you don't need to do your head studs until 290+ hp. 4 out of 4 of the some what experienced say I do. What is your real world findings.

 

[NoBrakes!]

whats the cost? I always lean towards over built

 

[Longhairfreak]

whats the cost? I always lean towards over built

$5-600.

 

[NoBrakes!]

itll make more power down low, might not be a bad idea... that's less than the price of a drum of fuel

 

[ZRrrr]

This

"you don't need to do your head studs until 290+ hp"

However, what it really depends on is how much boost is generated for a given tune/HP. Been running 18 Lbs at 265 hp since 2014, no studs.

 

[NoBrakes!]

25lbs baby!

 

[ZRrrr]

This

"you don't need to do your head studs until 290+ hp"

However, what it really depends on is how much boost is generated for a given tune/HP. Been running 18 Lbs at 265 hp since 2014, no studs.

Wanted to add that from what I have learned, detonation is the big killer of a head gasket. Run good fuel, don't let temps get out of control. I have been told over and over that these 1100 Turbos can comfortably run up to 20psi boost with stock engine internals, as long as fuel is good and no detonation. Get a tune from a tuner that has good safety backups, like a lower engine temp warning than stock, and a knock light. My tune has a very bright knock light with two stages, flashes for approaching knock, and constant on for full deto. Rarely do I see the light if running good fuel (Husky 94). As well, with the tune I have, keeping the rpm in between 8300 and 8400 helps keep knock away.

Here is a tip for you...replace the fuel filter every season. If they plug up even a little on a tuned 1100 T, you will start to have fuel issues.

 

[Longhairfreak]

Wanted to add that from what I have learned, detonation is the big killer of a head gasket. Run good fuel, don't let temps get out of control. I have been told over and over that these 1100 Turbos can comfortably run up to 20psi boost with stock engine internals, as long as fuel is good and no detonation. Get a tune from a tuner that has good safety backups, like a lower engine temp warning than stock, and a knock light. My tune has a very bright knock light with two stages, flashes for approaching knock, and constant on for full deto. Rarely do I see the light if running good fuel (Husky 94). As well, with the tune I have, keeping the rpm in between 8300 and 8400 helps keep knock away.

Here is a tip for you...replace the fuel filter every season. If they plug up even a little on a tuned 1100 T, you will start to have fuel issues.

Thanks.

 

[AGGRESIVEZEBRA]

I would say anything above 250 and I would do it, Speedwerx says it is needed with there 260 kit. I would rather spend the 800 more if a shop is doing It or 300 to know I am not going to be blowing a headgasket out on the lake and possibly doing more damage (warp the head, coolant in cylinder then next startup hydrolock it.) Then mid season have the sled torn apart doing the job when the sled was already half way there.

 

[Longhairfreak]

I would say anything above 250 and I would do it, Speedwerx says it is needed with there 260 kit. I would rather spend the 800 more if a shop is doing It or 300 to know I am not going to be blowing a headgasket out on the lake and possibly doing more damage (warp the head, coolant in cylinder then next startup hydrolock it.) Then mid season have the sled torn apart doing the job when the sled was already half way there.

What is the difference between 260 pump gas hp and 260 race gas hp?

 

[AGGRESIVEZEBRA]

Speedwerx for there 260 kit has tuned it on race fuel as it dummy proof for no getting any detonation. Mostly all others have tuned there 260 kit for pump gas just need be a little more careful at lower elevations and potential to get bad gas from a station.