Which year of Pro is the best.

[ssjrmk]

I am looking at buying a Pro? I was just wondering if there is a certain year to avoid or any issues I should be aware of. I'm looking at the 2011 to 2014. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

 

[gdhillon]

Iirc 11s and 12s had electrical gremlins along with other issues (pistons skirts breaking) so id stay away. 13s had jack/drive shaft issues which was fixed/updated with a collar, from what ive read the pistons skirts are stronger as well but I am sceptical about it, and aarms ungluing.
14s are only different from the 13s b/c they leave the factory with the driveshaft colar.
So if I were you i'd try and find a leftover 14 (local dealer has 163s priced at 9500). Get a brp oil cap/paaso cap, turn up your oil pump if need be and have fun riding her!

Always let it warm up to 120 before you rip, after a break in riding fire it up wait for the temps to stabilize then rip. And dont go above 140. And dont reverse into your garage and turn her off, put it back in forward move ahead/spin the track a few feet then shut it down. And dont try and take your belt of when the sled was in reverse

 

[Dazzler]

I have an 11 and a 13, no problems with either. Any driveshaft issues are likely taken care of by now on the 13's. In our group we have not had any piston or engine trouble since the 09 and 10 Dragon's. Although I have seen a couple 12's with top end engine issues in at the local Poo shop. The 13 and 14's seem to out perform the 11 and 12's. In my opinion it's likely due to the belt drive. Happy shopping, there are likely some good deals out there these days!!

 

[papajake]

broker in camrose is selling brand new pro 800 155 for 10900

 

[AreWeThereYet]

Iirc 11s and 12s had electrical gremlins along with other issues (pistons skirts breaking) so id stay away. 13s had jack/drive shaft issues which was fixed/updated with a collar, from what ive read the pistons skirts are stronger as well but I am sceptical about it, and aarms ungluing.
14s are only different from the 13s b/c they leave the factory with the driveshaft colar.
So if I were you i'd try and find a leftover 14 (local dealer has 163s priced at 9500). Get a brp oil cap/paaso cap, turn up your oil pump if need be and have fun riding her!

Always let it warm up to 120 before you rip, after a break in riding fire it up wait for the temps to stabilize then rip. And dont go above 140. And dont reverse into your garage and turn her off, put it back in forward move ahead/spin the track a few feet then shut it down. And dont try and take your belt of when the sled was in reverse

Go read this

 

[powder junkie]

'13 and up pros are big diff from 11/12. If u want a mint trouble free 13 pro, send me pm. One of mine are for sale for good price and has few acc.

 

[ssjrmk]

Thanks guys. I'll be looking later this summer or fall to buy.

 

[gdhillon]

Go read this

Very interesting. I'm surprised I havent seen that writeup before today. I thought we want the sled to be at 120 for the thermostat to be open?

Also, I am still running the stock pistons in my 14 from what he says there I'd be okay?

 

[ABMax24]

Go read this

Unfortunately I have to disagree with most of what is written in this article, I do agree with not running wide open as soon as you get on the sled, but the whole oil starvation thing just blows my mind, has anyone bled their oil pump and watched the air bubbles move at idle with the pump lever in the closed postion? I assure you it does still pump oil. The pistons and crank do not get hot at idle, anyone that has run a pyro on their sled knows that, the sled is just running too rich with too little air and fuel being burnt to overheat the pistons, and if the crank got hot it would be because of no oil in the bearings, and the bearings would be wrecked and would fail shortly after if this was true. If anything the pistons remain too cold which increases clearance until they warm up, causing piston slap as he refers to. But do whatever you want, it's your machine.

 

[gdhillon]

Unfortunately I have to disagree with most of what is written in this article, I do agree with not running wide open as soon as you get on the sled, but the whole oil starvation thing just blows my mind, has anyone bled their oil pump and watched the air bubbles move at idle with the pump lever in the closed postion? I assure you it does still pump oil. The pistons and crank do not get hot at idle, anyone that has run a pyro on their sled knows that, the sled is just running too rich with too little air and fuel being burnt to overheat the pistons, and if the crank got hot it would be because of no oil in the bearings, and the bearings would be wrecked and would fail shortly after if this was true. If anything the pistons remain too cold which increases clearance until they warm up, causing piston slap as he refers to. But do whatever you want, it's your machine.

See I was told by my dealer to wait til 120 to get on it etc. I would assume he told me those things to help keep the motor running well. From the article it sounds almost like wet stacking when referring to diesels.

Pros oil pump is 'tied' to the throttle cable isn't it? From my understanding poo runs them lean for epa reasons and that is why we turn the oil pump up to compensate.
And the brp/paaso oil cap is b/c we don't want the stock cap to create a vacuum in the oil lines and lean the sled right out

And adding oil to the fuel won't help as much b/c that just goes to the top end.....feel free to correct me if im wrong

 

[Vance Matheson]

the quick drive belt is stronger for 14 also the 13 14's have the carbon fiber over structure.

 

[jhurkot]

Get a 13/14.

12- One of the worst sleds i've owned besides my 2007 summit x. Nonstop electrical issues ALL winter. On the tow rope probably 6-7 times that year, sat at the dealer for most of the winter. Finally got new stator and wiring harness. Also lots of TPS issues which can be solved by cutting off that stupid boot at the connector. Total miles: 1200

13- Jackshaft issues mostly caused by the wrong torque on the top quick drive sprocket bolt. Easy fix but don't buy one with issues because polaris will not warranty it now even if it does have warranty. A-arms were not glued properly on some. Also had a driveshaft wear out on the clutch side (spun inside the bearing). Motor mounts were toast at 900 miles. The ones they replace them with now are way better. Total miles: 1800

14-Better quick drive belt. Over structure glue was not done properly (I fixed this myself with some new glue). Quick drive sprocket on lower was loose on the drive shaft splines. Blew motor at 1600 miles and they put a new one in with the oiler cranked up. Total miles: 2000

In 5000 miles of mountain riding these are the issues I've experienced. I love the chassis and the way this sled performs in deep snow.

 

[BILTIT]

The 13/14's ran alot better than the 11/12's due mostly to improved fuel mapping (the belt drive has little to do with it). I have had zero electrical problems with my 11 and it runs great with the proper map on a PCV. I prefer the chaincase and aluminum front overstructure for strength. If i was looking for a newer one i would go 14 or 15 but be wary of the beltdrive.

 

[nosaj82]

I have an 11 pro 800 with 2000km's and no issues at all. oil, fuel, pull cord then throttle. With that said and to be on the safe side I will be installing the fix kit this summer as I have heard of some nasty rumours when these motors let go.

 

[prairie-rider800]

I have 2100 miles (about 3/4 mountain miles) on my 13 pro and have never had a problem. I put a fix kit in it at 1400 mi and changed the QD belt at 1600 mi. Both were for preventive maintenance not because anything had broken. My dad has a 14 pro with about 1000 mi and has not had any issues either. They are great sleds and I wouldn't be as worried about the QD as everyone says you should be.

 

[Stockorwalk]

13 163" Pro 1800 miles , cord came out of primary belt , no other problems