what to look for on 2012 renegade 1000

[handyandy]

I found what I think is a good deal on 2012 renegade 1000. Has 1200 km. Has snorkels, 30" silverbacks, 3000 lb winch, hand warmers and a snow plow. He wants $6900 says the diff makes a ticking sound so I should probably plan on rebuilding it if I buy it.
Is this a good deal? What should I watch for on these quads? Based on the mods it likely has seen some abuse but it looks pretty clean.

 

[DaveB]

That's a smokin' price.
First...make sure the frame "issue" has the upgrade done. G2 First Run Issue - Can-Am ATV Forum

Rear diff: mine never skipped a beat in 4 seasons of 30" tires...but some are blowing up. The fix is to go to the XMR diff and appropriate driveshaft.

There's also a guy who goes by "Mud n Wheels" on FB (I'm not on FB) who is in Sask who rebuilds Can Am diffs.

Brakes are probably toast...run EBC Severe duty.
Bushings suck. Replace with

Change the fluids regular and run 'er. Oh...I have a RJWC single slip-on pipe that fits that machine if you want to make a bunch of noise. (I think it gave me a couple hundred RPM on the shift-out...so it adds a bit of power) And NO, you don't need a tuner on the 2012.

Edit: like ANY quad...check that it hasn't been drowned. If that motor has been underwater, walk away from the deal. Check frame, bolts, brakes, a-arms, trailing arms, etc for excessive abuse.

 

[handyandy]

Thanks Dave! That's exactly the info I needed. I appreciate it!

 

[DaveB]

Oh and serious about the pipe. Its a stainless with stainless guts. Good pipe...cheapy cheap....or I will weld it to my snow blower....lol


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[handyandy]

Oh and serious about the pipe. Its a stainless with stainless guts. Good pipe...cheapy cheap....or I will weld it to my snow blower....lol


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Might be too loud. The cows won't like it lol.

 

[KWIK RACING INC.]

Dave sort of sumed it up.. with 10 years of playing with major performance mods on these machines i agree with what he has said...
Jarret Burley who owns mud and wheels can also redo your diff so you dont have to get a xmr diff... and now you can run the stock prop shaft... there are other options besides the xmr diff... depends on how hard you are to your machine and how much modding you do ...now this is the rear diff... not much that can be done to the front one to make it better... the front diffs where never the problem... just the rear but only in the 2012 and up machines cause they are G2 platform ... 2011and older are G1 platform althought some 2012 still had the G1 frame under them... in 2013 all machines where G2 platform...

to check the machine... jack up front end... then you can check just like they do with a car if you have play in your wheel bearings, ball joints.. upper and lower... tie rod ends and a arm bushings... by wiggling the wheel when you grab it in the 3 and 9 oclock positions and 12 and 6 oclock postions... then you can jack up the rear and check the rear tires the same way for wheel bearing and bushings on the rear trailing arms...

 

[j335]

How do you know if it has been sunk without changing oil? Air filter could be replaced and cleaned then how do you tell? Let's just say I almost had a bad experience with a quad like that, turned out it was swamped and shortly after seized the crank...
The deal could be too good to be true.

 

[KWIK RACING INC.]

How do you know if it has been sunk without changing oil? Air filter could be replaced and cleaned then how do you tell? Let's just say I almost had a bad experience with a quad like that, turned out it was swamped and shortly after seized the crank...
The deal could be too good to be true.

This is true... if the person does a bunch of oil changes...cleans out the air box.. even cleans the TB and the intake... its very hard... its actually impossible ... a V twin on a can am does not like dirt, dirty water, mud or any other foreign material in its engine... non V twins survive all the time... the the nature of the beast with can am V twins is that the dirt and crap will never come out of the motor ever, unless you split the block... there are nooks and crannys and dirt sits on top of the oil screen and that will never exit the motor.... not even with 1000 flushes..... then that V twin is a ticking time bomb... it could last 2 hrs or two years... you dont know... it just takes a micro piece of dirt to break lose in the engine and get into the crank bearings and your toast....

everything else can be checked out... front end parts ... rear end parts as i mentioned back a few comments... you can check condition of oil in the diffs and the tranny.... but just to check the oil in the motor will not tell you much except its either been changed not to long ago or left in way to long...

and THIS is the only reason i buy NEW all the time... if i cant afford new... i save till i can... but thats just me...

 

[rzrgade]

I personally would shy away from an xmr ( type) of machine ... Snorkels rad relocate etc etc .. I know how hard mud is on any machine .... I would buy a machine that has s windscreen & a huge box !

In other words a lightly used trail machine ...
And convert it over to a mud bike , if that is your end goal....
Even if it is not swamped , mud destroys things in a hurry ... Imo


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[whoDEANie]

Gotta agree with Dave and KWIK. Mud ready or not, there's risk unless you have a good relationship with the seller and know for sure.

On top of all the other things mentioned, you'll want to check the drive shafts for play as well since greasing the u-joints get overlooked by a lot of people.

 

[j335]

Thanks Kwik for the reply. So in summary to the OP delete this ad and run away. Don't be tempted by the price, there is a reason the price is so low as others don't want to touch it either. It's a gamble, decide how risky you wanna be and find out how much a new motor is for the heck of it, it will scare you.