What happens if you run without headlights??

SIRsleeper

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Going through the sled as to why it runs funny and found my headlight switch is hooped so I woulda been running without lights... How fast does an ECU fry in these conditions? Just wondering if I should expect to be ordering more parts


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moyiesledhead

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If it's the M7 in your sig line then, yes you will cook your ECU. Sometimes right away, sometimes later, and a very few of them not at all. Can't run those without either lights or a ballast resistor for load. They had lousy voltage regulation.
 

SIRsleeper

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They do need a resistor to run without lights... The ECU is on route to cat to be checked, if I fried it I just might give up on sledding! Two sleds in two seasons, 150 miles combined, into the sport for almost 10g now... Definitely not paying the price for a new ECU since I just got quoted $1900 and there's none available anyway!

The sled still runs but it's flooding out a cylinder so I'm hoping the ECU is still good so that I can fix my headlight switch and be on my way

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moyiesledhead

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Could be a few other things. The most common one is the tail light wiring chafed where it goes through the tunnel at the back. M7's were famous for that. Could also be corroded wiring in the plug to the ECU. Seen that more than once. Both easy fixes. In my experience a failed ECU won't run the sled at all. Even if Cat says the ECU is gone, put it back in and check these two things. My experience with Cat's diagnostics on electronics has also been less than stellar. You can also swap the injectors side to side and see if the problem moves with it.

Good luck with it. The M7 is still an awesome sled!
 

TylerG

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the smart ass in me was going to say "once the sun goes down you ride in the dark"

but that's not a very helpful answer.
 

arff

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the smart ass in me was going to say "once the sun goes down you ride in the dark"

but that's not a very helpful answer.

That is the correct answer.
 

SIRsleeper

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I've tried swapping injectors and the issues stays on that side, and the problem also persists if I start the sled with the factory injector plugs plugged direct to the injectors and issue is still there so that eliminates the boondocker and it's wiring. Checked the taillight wiring it's been repaired once before and is in good shape, no corrosion in any wiring plugs either. I did find a ground to my hood wiring that was barely hooked up (shrink connector that wasn't even crimped and the wire was pulled from the metal and barely touching) and also a skinned wire to my timing sensor though I don't believe it was shorted to anything from what I can see. I do need to run a bigger ground to the chassis also, previous owner relocated them to one spot and I don't think a single 18ga wire is enough! I just really wanna ride this beast, it was an absolute blast the one ride I did get!!


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SIRsleeper

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I will find any shorts if they're there!! Harness is all opened up since I took the pic


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SIRsleeper

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No, Jawz full exhaust with twin pipes meant for the 900 big bore


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moyiesledhead

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I'd bet money that might be your problem. M7's generally don't like exhaust mods. Twins are especially hard to tune. Do you have the big bore on it? If not you may be flowing too much exhaust and overfueling trying to compensate for it. Has it ever run right?
 

SIRsleeper

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It ran right when I bought it, and yes it still has an engine tech 900 top end. The problems started after getting about 10' of air off the edge of a swamp and landed it on it's side... Bent an a arm and the bulkhead in the process. Bulkhead has been straightened and a new a arm went on ok. But now to make it run right again! Reeds have been checked and they're good, and it's not a weak spark on that cylinder either. Compression is even at 130, I'm convinced it's an electrical issue. The mag side plug gets wet and that pipe is soaked from excess fuel. The headlights did work when I bought it but I don't think they worked before tearing it down... Really hoping that's why it's over fuelling. The headlight switch is definitely bad


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moyiesledhead

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You've run me out of ideas, other than checking your power valve cables just for chits and giggles. I'm thinking you've probably been there already too. :confused:
 

SIRsleeper

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Actually I should check those! Seller did have a CEL for the solenoid which he replaced then sold it without seeing if the problem was actually fixed.... I suppose cables could throw that code? He said it wasn't working at all though.


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neilsleder

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Have you checked the reeds? I had a 06 M9 and broken reeds cause issues in mine.

Yes he did. If the power valves are dirty the cables can fall off, my wife's m7 did this lots. But that won't cause it to over fuel. Maybe the temp sensor on the side of the motor is shot and it thinks it's over heating.


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SIRsleeper

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Well finally put it back together with a reflashed ECU and new headlight switch... Had headlights for about a minute till I touched the throttle then paff bulbs burnt. Shut it off, restarted on high beams and did the same thing. Thinking I need a voltage regulator for it?


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moyiesledhead

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Well finally put it back together with a reflashed ECU and new headlight switch... Had headlights for about a minute till I touched the throttle then paff bulbs burnt. Shut it off, restarted on high beams and did the same thing. Thinking I need a voltage regulator for it?

M7 didn't really have one......which was a bad idea they corrected in '07 on the M8. They kinda relied on lighting load to keep the voltage in check. Not sure what your issue is. Maybe try running a load resistor kit as well as headlights?????????

Edit: Actually...voltage is generated by the stator coil. Could be an issue there. Would be nice to try a different one before you buy one though. They're not cheap.
 
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SIRsleeper

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Might be time to part it out... I already bought a new cat


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