Water in oil on mcx turbo Nytro

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Oil breather lines on my 2008 270 mcxpress Nytro seem to ice up...then melt and end up in the oil. Wha can I do to prevent this? I don't know if it's condensation or just snow getting in there ( mcxpress oil breather box). Thanks

 

[Nytroman]

Your talking about an aftermarket catch can? Condensation is always going to be present depending on temperatures and under the hood heat and melting and steaming conditions. You will see some creamy oil residue in some of the line vent lines which dont hurt anything. If your talking white motor oil there is somethimg not right. There is usually enough under hood heat to keep icing from occuring unless your riding in major cold more than I have.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Yup...the catch can......It just isn't right .......creamy oil in the vent lines but it does end up in the oil tank which is alarming to me. You would think that any amount of moisture in the oil could rust internal engine parts like main bearings and what not. So this is totally normal and there is absolutely nothing I can do about it?

What if I put some low voltage heat tape around the catch can or something.....I don't know just throwing it out there.

 

[Clode]

when the engine is at operating temp the moisture flashes off, what is bad is quick starts and not warming the engine up completely, so the engine oil doesn't get warm enough to evaporate the moisture. I try to make sure that if I am test firing my Nytro to do garage tests, I pull the belt and warm it up to operating temp before shutting off.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Ok I did not realize this was a common thing. I am just trying to go over my used sled purchase and that is pretty much the only complaint so far.......besides rattling clutch lol. Thanks

 

[Vipertonytro]

Get rid of that POS catch can!! Go to yamaha they sell a tether switch activated electric rollover valve. If you roll your sled pull the tether and the valve stops any oil from coming out. Then just put an automotive PVC filter on the open end of the hose. No more condensation and icing up. Works wonders as I used to have the same issue with mine. I used a K&N PVC filter. Looks great too.

 

[Modman]

OFT makes the shut off as well, definitely get one. Just thinking out loud here too though - Can't you just bend the line so it has a "U" in it, then put a "T" fitting in the vent line at the bottom of the "U" and a petcock on the spur off the "T"? This would allow any moisture in the line to settle in the "U" and spur and then you just open the pet cock to drain it off. Route the house so its in a warm place (not directly in front of a hood vent).

Much like the old drain lines on the bottom of racing carbs years ago that came off the bottom of the float bowl bottom caps. Just a piece pf plastic line with a valve on the bottom, any water that settled in the float bowl got trapped in the spur underneath and then you just opened the valve to bleed it off.

 

[Clode]

Ok I did not realize this was a common thing. I am just trying to go over my used sled purchase and that is pretty much the only complaint so far.......besides rattling clutch lol. Thanks

the rattle comes from the clutch drive in the engine (there is a spline shaft behind the cover located behind the clutch) , some are noisier than others, you ould pop your clutch off and put it on an Apex...no rattle....it has to do with the harmonics in the 3 cylinder 4 cycle.

 

[Vipertonytro]

This does work as that is what I did for a few years. However when rolling your sled to get it out the oil follows the line and dumps out at the bottom then when you tip it right side up again it runs all over everything making a hell of a mess. It is better than the catch can though!

OFT makes the shut off as well, definitely get one. Just thinking out loud here too though - Can't you just bend the line so it has a "U" in it, then put a "T" fitting in the vent line at the bottom of the "U" and a petcock on the spur off the "T"? This would allow any moisture in the line to settle in the "U" and spur and then you just open the pet cock to drain it off. Route the house so its in a warm place (not directly in front of a hood vent).

Much like the old drain lines on the bottom of racing carbs years ago that came off the bottom of the float bowl bottom caps. Just a piece pf plastic line with a valve on the bottom, any water that settled in the float bowl got trapped in the spur underneath and then you just opened the valve to bleed it off.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Can't a guy just buy a 12v normally closed valve on eBay for 15-30 bucks and just wire that in instead of buying a 200 dollar Jacobson valve?

 

[Vipertonytro]

You need normally open for the engine to breath and closed to roll over. ( maybe thats what you meant by wire it in that way) But yes that would work. You would need a tether wired to it so if you get bucked off and roll the valve closes..

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

I think it would be normally closed.....power on to open. Either or...has anyone done this or should I just be buying the oft one. I already have a tether so having to buy the whole kit seems kind of ridiculous.

 

[Lund]

I would avoid any ROV, CR, had installed several versions being the latest Yamaha's ROV and they are very unreliable. Especialy when they get gummed up in oil from use and condensation.
Another issue they are known to cause is engine runnability with ECU interferance, we found some Nytro's would stumble and miss under load with the ROV electrical draw. Once disconnected they ran 100% again.
Your best bet is a properly mounted catch can and good hose routing. CR no longer install's ROV's and actualy returned all to supplier and we also no longer use them on our sled's.

As for the milky oil at the hose end of the breather, that is 100% normal, its condensation.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Does someone have an illustration of a properly mounted catch can? Maybe mine is not correct. Should a guy be installing a frog skin over the vent in the hood?thanks

 

[Clode]

I would avoid any ROV, CR, had installed several versions being the latest Yamaha's ROV and they are very unreliable. Especialy when they get gummed up in oil from use and condensation.
Another issue they are known to cause is engine runnability with ECU interferance, we found some Nytro's would stumble and miss under load with the ROV electrical draw. Once disconnected they ran 100% again.
Your best bet is a properly mounted catch can and good hose routing. CR no longer install's ROV's and actualy returned all to supplier and we also no longer use them on our sled's.

As for the milky oil at the hose end of the breather, that is 100% normal, its condensation.

Knock on wood, I haven't had any issues with my yamaha ROV

 

[Vipertonytro]

Ditto. 2500km on my Yamaha ROV without a hiccup.

Knock on wood, I haven't had any issues with my yamaha ROV

 

[jbb]

I would avoid any ROV, CR, had installed several versions being the latest Yamaha's ROV and they are very unreliable. Especialy when they get gummed up in oil from use and condensation.
Another issue they are known to cause is engine runnability with ECU interferance, we found some Nytro's would stumble and miss under load with the ROV electrical draw. Once disconnected they ran 100% again.
Your best bet is a properly mounted catch can and good hose routing. CR no longer install's ROV's and actualy returned all to supplier and we also no longer use them on our sled's.

As for the milky oil at the hose end of the breather, that is 100% normal, its condensation.

what he said.