maxwell
Active VIP Member
i dont like that 19 gear purely because i used to break chains with it from the tight bend
TURBO TAMER X
- Thread starter NoBrakes!
- Start date
i dont like that 19 gear purely because i used to break chains with it from the tight bend
jcjc1
Active VIP Member
interesting. how many chains did you break?
the gears and chain on the turbos are hyvo so i wonder if that would help.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
this was back in the XP days so perhaps like you say maybe isn't an issue anymore. Sure makes a mess though
The Kickass One
Active VIP Member
I’m getting the thought that nobody really knows yet.
That makes a lot of sense to me.
Sleds are different… and so awesome out of the box!!
My 2018 was garbage until they did all the factory updates so no not good out of the box.
oler1234
Active VIP Member
What? You make no sense!
So even with the 15hp more you are still going to try a 2.42 gearing when it can’t currently pull the 2.52 gearing to your desired track speed.
Maybe I am missing your logic/view point.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
i like to go fast
dragonweld28
Supporting Vendor
It cant pull the 2.52 gearing because the stock clutching wont allow it. When its clutched correctly a 2.42 is the desired ration.
snoflake
Active VIP Member
I got ask, when a guy is considering a clutch kit is he wanting it just to increase track speed? If you make changes increasing track speed, are you losing anything on the bottom end? To me when you making gearing and clutching changes, there must be some gains and losses?
dragonweld28
Supporting Vendor
Why would there be losses if you have designed a more efficient and effective clutch kit? ALL OEM's makes a calibration that will work ok in a huge range of areas. Different temps, snow density, air density, elevation, etc. The stock SKidoo set up runs a very stiff secondary spring (157/303) and a straight 40 helix. Additionally, the primary spring is stiff at 150/350. The helix and spring combo really hold back shift in the top end due to the pressure needed to pull the belt down the secondary. Makes a lot of heat, and when ridden hard, the belt temp alarm comes on in 20 min.
When allowing the secondary to shift with a multi angle helix and softer spring rate allows more use of the clutches and get closer to 1-1 shift. The 2.42 gear rario is needed as your not always in 30" of fresh and allows for more top end when the conditions allow for it.
We can all agree that the G4 hits a wall.... literally the secondary just wont shift anymore. Not that it cant, just cant pull the belt up 40 degrees with a 303lb final spring rate.
When allowing the secondary to shift with a multi angle helix and softer spring rate allows more use of the clutches and get closer to 1-1 shift. The 2.42 gear rario is needed as your not always in 30" of fresh and allows for more top end when the conditions allow for it.
We can all agree that the G4 hits a wall.... literally the secondary just wont shift anymore. Not that it cant, just cant pull the belt up 40 degrees with a 303lb final spring rate.
jcjc1
Active VIP Member
no downsides to a clutch kit. my first time on a mountain sled a few years back, i came away with two observations. first was they're harder to ride than i thought and second was why the high engagement? did some research and found out that a clutch kit eliminates the high engagement in addition to other benefits so i installed one and the difference in performance is very noticeable, as in within the first few hundred yards on the trail to the pow, i knew it was money well spent.
current sled has a kit and ive got another sitting on the bench waiting for the new sled.
- Thread starter
- #32
NoBrakes!
Active VIP Member
I left my clutching stock last season as it didn’t over rev but I found this dusty kit on my toolbox this weekend… did anyone have luck last season and if so what weight did you settle on and in what configuration?
Thanks
Thanks
Dynamo^Joe
Active VIP Member
A tight bend on the chain with a 19 top, depends on what chain you're using.
The chain is going around a tighter-radius on a 19 top 20 top, heck, even a 27[twenty seven] top gear. The chain going around any top gear is more tight radius than it wrapping around the slider adjuster shoe.
Under full throttle, the chain is pulling on the left side, the pull side The chain going around the slider adjuster shoe has little-to-no torque applied on it.
Under full hand braking, the torque is on the brake caliper, transmitting into the track drive sprocket shaft, there is little to no torque on the slider adjuster shoe.
Under engine braking, the torque is on the slider adjuster shoe, but it's subtle; you're taking up the inertia of the rotating clutch assembly and the engine rpm itself - until decluching. Then it just freewheels.
The slider adjuster shoe feels the most torque in reverse, and, including coming down a hill and hitting the reverse button to help slow down, then there is a lot of torque on the slider adjuster shoe.
I can't see a chain breaking other than the sled in the air, landing, full throttle when the track impacts the snow.
I used to clutch for a Ski-doo X-team rider back in the day. I got to see some pretty neat testing on that 19-49 slipper gear set.
The particular rider "Brandon" was chosen by the race dept to test the Team "slipper gear". Brandon's objective was to land the sled full throttle; the track impacts the snow at full throttle. From a flying jump, he had to estimate 8~10 ft above the ground to go full throttle so by the time the track impacted the snow, the track was turning a race course track speed.
Somewhere around 800+ pounds compression on the slipper gear pack, the chain would snap.
Somewhere around 700 pounds compression on the slipper gear pack, the chain would not snap. The gear slipped on impact and he could keep on going around the track, the gear not slipping.
Somewhere around 600 pounds compression on the slipper gear, its clutch pack would slip and have low track speed. On a flat out drag race to top end, around 65mph the gear would slip and burn its pack, oil stinky winky and the pack retainer plate discolored.
If one snaps a chain on a "xp/xm/G" summit, there is definitely something wrong with the chain, or severe misalignment, or the track drive shaft is bent, causing the bottom gear to run in an orbit.
The chain is going around a tighter-radius on a 19 top 20 top, heck, even a 27[twenty seven] top gear. The chain going around any top gear is more tight radius than it wrapping around the slider adjuster shoe.
Under full throttle, the chain is pulling on the left side, the pull side The chain going around the slider adjuster shoe has little-to-no torque applied on it.
Under full hand braking, the torque is on the brake caliper, transmitting into the track drive sprocket shaft, there is little to no torque on the slider adjuster shoe.
Under engine braking, the torque is on the slider adjuster shoe, but it's subtle; you're taking up the inertia of the rotating clutch assembly and the engine rpm itself - until decluching. Then it just freewheels.
The slider adjuster shoe feels the most torque in reverse, and, including coming down a hill and hitting the reverse button to help slow down, then there is a lot of torque on the slider adjuster shoe.
I can't see a chain breaking other than the sled in the air, landing, full throttle when the track impacts the snow.
I used to clutch for a Ski-doo X-team rider back in the day. I got to see some pretty neat testing on that 19-49 slipper gear set.
The particular rider "Brandon" was chosen by the race dept to test the Team "slipper gear". Brandon's objective was to land the sled full throttle; the track impacts the snow at full throttle. From a flying jump, he had to estimate 8~10 ft above the ground to go full throttle so by the time the track impacted the snow, the track was turning a race course track speed.
Somewhere around 800+ pounds compression on the slipper gear pack, the chain would snap.
Somewhere around 700 pounds compression on the slipper gear pack, the chain would not snap. The gear slipped on impact and he could keep on going around the track, the gear not slipping.
Somewhere around 600 pounds compression on the slipper gear, its clutch pack would slip and have low track speed. On a flat out drag race to top end, around 65mph the gear would slip and burn its pack, oil stinky winky and the pack retainer plate discolored.
If one snaps a chain on a "xp/xm/G" summit, there is definitely something wrong with the chain, or severe misalignment, or the track drive shaft is bent, causing the bottom gear to run in an orbit.
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