Tuning

ippielb

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Ya I been looking at the aem, which model do you use?

I have a digital on one, and analog. Digital is better for tuning. Analog is nice when it's set up.

When tuning you can see exact numbers and how much it changes when you add or reduce numbers/lights on your fuel controller.

Once it's set up analog is nice. I cut out a plastic sheet and put two black sharpie marks on it where the needle has to be between. My gauge has a white background. So they show up. My digital is black background. When your riding you can quickly look down and see if the needle is between your two marks. That's all you really need to know. As long as you have it set up well.


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arcticrat

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I have a digital on one, and analog. Digital is better for tuning. Analog is nice when it's set up.

When tuning you can see exact numbers and how much it changes when you add or reduce numbers/lights on your fuel controller.

Once it's set up analog is nice. I cut out a plastic sheet and put two black sharpie marks on it where the needle has to be between. My gauge has a white background. So they show up. My digital is black background. When your riding you can quickly look down and see if the needle is between your two marks. That's all you really need to know. As long as you have it set up well.


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Thanks, where in the pipe did you mount the sensor?
 

ippielb

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Thanks, where in the pipe did you mount the sensor?

Instructions they supply will tell you I would think. I have a turbo so mine is mounted after the turbo.

Depending on your set up you can tune with an EGT gauge, and get a dual set up so you can see how much hotter the mag side is running and just add some trim to the controller.


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Lund

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What are guys using to aid tuning? Air fuel meters or pyros? What brand names are the best-fastest?

Thanks.

Both style work's well in monitoring if you understand what is happening inside. The O2 sensor reads air fuel ratio's as it burns in the exhaust system giving the operator/tuner a visual indication of the motor's state of tune. 14.7 is the magic number as it is a near perfect burn. Anything above 14.7 is considered lean, while anything below is considered rich. A good tuner will achieve 13-14 O2 reading's at pretty much all throttle positions, a tough goal to achieve.
An EGT set up varies in that it reads the temperature of the burn. The maximum temperature of a burn is achieved at approximately 10cm or 4" from the piston face, inside the Y pipe. The standard maximum temps before internal damage can occur is about 1250deg. This is not a hard fast number as varying factors can change this considerably. I have personally seen EGT numbers exceeding 1400deg with no issues. Using an EGT setup, even an O2 setup to maximize performance is best to be done with spark plug chop test reading's to get an idea of the state of tune of that particular motor.

As for the brand, you get what you pay for like anything, a brand with a track record is best...what ever brand you might choose.
 

FoxTrot66

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I run a KOSO AFR on both of my sleds and they've worked really well for me so far. AFR's do take a bit of time to settle out as you ride though. They don't respond instantainously but they give you a really good idea of how completely you're burning your mixture (EGT's give you an idea if it's hot but AFR's help you diagnose if you have a reed failing or power valves sticking which I've found useful). Even if you're using EGT's and AFR's it's still best to pull the plugs and check the color and for the fifteen minutes it takes, pulling the power valves will give you a good idea on cylinder and piston wash.
 
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