Trailer Questions.

[Chuck403]

My old utility trailer just isn't cutting it anymore. It's fine for short trips from town, but I have no faith in using it to do a few trips out Valemount/McBride way. It's an old tent trailer, and can only handle the weight of 1 machine, and I'm buying 2 tires for it every year because they wear out so fast.

Been eyeing up different trailers here and there, Just looking at open flatdecks, can't justify an enclosed for my use. Trailer will be seeing double duty hauling quads around in the summer, and hunting season.

I like the corrosion resistance and light weight of the aluminum ones I've looked at, but they come with the torsion axle, rated at 2200 lbs. That sounds a little on the light side for me. We have 2 Yamaha Vipers to go on in the winter. Trailer could very well have 2 quads and a moose on it someday coming out of some good forsaken bush road. Another concern is the tires on it. 20.5X10. The smaller the wheel, the more revolutions per km. Last concern is the axle. Great ground clearance, but have read the rubber in the axle for the suspension eventually dries out, gets brittle, and disintegrates.

Other option is good old steel with leaf springs, 3500 lb axle and 15" tires. The worry there is corrosion. Chances are quite good that we won't be able to hit the car wash as soon as we get home to rinse the salt off (and it's impossible to get it all)

I don't want to be buying new trailers every 5 years or so because they have rotted out, or the rubber torsion is destroyed.

I haven't seen much for aluminium trailers with leaf springs unless I'm looking in the wrong places. I'm also kinda cheap and really don't want to spend much north of 3k.

 

[Sledtillded]

I would go steel. Buddie ran a 4 year old Triton 8 x 12ft open deck. and the frame broke in half coming out of Mcbride Cracking is a problem with the aluminum open deck trailers. I bought a steel flat deck single 3500 lb axle v nose in 97 and am still using it today. I have put a lot of weight on that thing and just replaced the hangers and springs last year. I just wash it as often as I can and have sprayed the underside with trem clad rust paint and she has lasted well. Not sure where U are at. But if Around Edmonton talk to Jack at Certified custom trailers. He builds solid stuff

 

[Chuck403]

I have no problem travelling for the right deal. If I were to buy from the closest place to me it's a 4 hr round trip. Life in an isolated small town dictates travelling for just about anything aside from the basics.

 

[Stg2Suby]

I'd steer clear of those little wheels and axles too, go for 3500# either spring or torsion and 14" or preferably 15" rims

 

[zal]

If you're looking at a steel trailer, look at the frame and try to find one with doesn't use a tube frame (square or rectangle). They will corrode from the inside out, will take time depending on what thickness they use. Look for one that uses channel instead. Torsion axles work great when loaded but tend to jump around when empty. Less maintenance on torsion axles. Tires, drop the small tires and like mentioned before, get 15" rims.

Only my opinion though. Take it for what its worth.

 

[busted2x]

When it's brand new take it and get the bottom undercoated. Find somewhere that can cavity wax all the joints and tubing ends.

 

[09 arctic cat m8]

I run a steel 12ft v nose open deck sled trailer drive on drive off, salt guards that act as doors to drive off the front, can get two 153s on it and 3-4 quads mostly haul two though, I can pull it with my quad ( Honda 350) in and out of goose fields when the truck won't do it, wet fields and such, also pull it behind the 5th wheel, it's a 2003 bought it 2nd hand but love it, double a trailers makes a beautiful sled trailer, have a look at it


http://doubleatrailers.ca/sl/slt38/

also seen a bunch of nice ones on Kijiji

 

[Dutchman]

FWIW.....I'm putting my vote in for the aluminum.
I used to have a steel V-nose drive on/off. It was good for hauling but it corroded badly. would give it a quick touch up paint every year to keep it looking half decent. Then the frame started and we had to weld plates underneath to keep it together. And had to replace a set of springs.

Had a Featherlite aluminum tilt deck. Worked great for what it was, and never had any problems with it. Just didn't like the fat stubby tires, not much ground clearance. But the small rubber had no problem at highway speeds. That thing was 20+ years old and still in great shape, yes including the torsion axles.

Now have a alum Triton tilt trailer with 15" rubber. Has a 2500# torsion axle. Aluminum shield up front. This trailer works great for my set up. It hauls my 155's no problem and I can move it around the yard by hand.

Both trailers will do the job. But don't be scared of the torsion axle. Also remember the steel trailer weighs twice as much as the aluminum, that's why they need a heavier rated axle, to carry the same load.

 

[mxz800x]

If your taking the trailer off road a lot ,stay away from the aluminum trailers. I had an aluminum two place for a few years and the frame was cracked in a lot of different places. I actually had to build a steel frame inside the aluminum frame where the axels were bolted to ,then bolt the steel frame to the aluminum Aluminum is a bitch to weld once it gets corroded with road and salt grime. That is why I built a steel frame. Steel frame with the proper paint will last a lot longer than aluminum. Jmo

 

[cattechsummitrider]

Have worked on a lot of aluminum trailers and I haven't seen one that doesn't crack aluminum does not take flexing,,

 

[Chuck403]

Great advice everyone, especially the links, and brands. Never heard of them before, but knowing more if what's out there is never a bad thing.

I never mentioned it in my initial post, as my mind was wandering when I wrote it, but I was going to ask how the aluminum stood up to cracking. Apparently not so good. I know aluminium isn't fond of being flexed, but was curious if they were built as to resist it better, and live longer. Not looking promising on that front. I know all about trying to weld contaminated aluminum. Been there done that and not in any rush to buy a good square wave Tig welder for repairing it.

I guess my next question now that material is figured out, is superglides look to be the thing to have for carbide protection on the deck. I don't know who sells them though. I've probably seen them, but because I wasn't looking, I never paid much attention. And how pricey are they? I'd probably be looking for 4 12' lengths, maybe a couple more pieces if the ramp doesn't have have something on it too.

 

[Tchetek]

Super glides add up and get expensive.

About 100$ per 20 feet

 

[cattechsummitrider]

Most trailer dealers carry them or can get them.

 

[the_real_wild1]

Torsion axles are better on an aluminum trailer. Less flex on the frame and body.

 

[norona]

My old utility trailer just isn't cutting it anymore. It's fine for short trips from town, but I have no faith in using it to do a few trips out Valemount/McBride way. It's an old tent trailer, and can only handle the weight of 1 machine, and I'm buying 2 tires for it every year because they wear out so fast.

Been eyeing up different trailers here and there, Just looking at open flatdecks, can't justify an enclosed for my use. Trailer will be seeing double duty hauling quads around in the summer, and hunting season.

I like the corrosion resistance and light weight of the aluminum ones I've looked at, but they come with the torsion axle, rated at 2200 lbs. That sounds a little on the light side for me. We have 2 Yamaha Vipers to go on in the winter. Trailer could very well have 2 quads and a moose on it someday coming out of some good forsaken bush road. Another concern is the tires on it. 20.5X10. The smaller the wheel, the more revolutions per km. Last concern is the axle. Great ground clearance, but have read the rubber in the axle for the suspension eventually dries out, gets brittle, and disintegrates.

Other option is good old steel with leaf springs, 3500 lb axle and 15" tires. The worry there is corrosion. Chances are quite good that we won't be able to hit the car wash as soon as we get home to rinse the salt off (and it's impossible to get it all)

I don't want to be buying new trailers every 5 years or so because they have rotted out, or the rubber torsion is destroyed.

I haven't seen much for aluminium trailers with leaf springs unless I'm looking in the wrong places. I'm also kinda cheap and really don't want to spend much north of 3k.

Here is a bit on the trailer I used for many years with great success. The aluminum worked awesome and cracking will most likely happen if you are going super fast on rough roads, mine was fine as I just drove slow on the bumpy bad stuff. I also had a galvanized steel single trailer which was awesome to. www.superclamp.net for all the stuff that will make loading and unloading safer and easier.

 

[team dirt]

Find the shortest tandem axle you can. I think they make them in a 16'. They pull better than a single and increase your capacity.

 

[j335]

Call Martin Motorsports they usually have sled show deals on Triton trailers, that's when I bought mine.

 

[iceman5689]

One would think aluminum would be the way to go with our winters. Or it least I did at first when I was in the market. After talking with many owners of aluminum walls and chassis are week and prone to failure. Yes they are lighter. Steel trailers do end up with surface corrosion after second yr but usually are left at that. Heavier axles the better I went with dual 3500lbs torsion but now wished I would of went to 5000lbs.

 

[Summit 934]

I have a tandem axle galvanized steel 14' for sale in the classifieds if you're still looking. I'm only selling because it doesn't get used enough.