I have a single stage converter and want to put in a 3 or 4 stage and am looking at
Trailer converter
- Thread starter mxzguy
- Start date
doorfx
Active VIP Member
How many amp is your current converter ?
I replaced my 40 amp with 60amp like the one you are looking at.
SwAp it out and never look back. Spend the extra money and get the charge wizard.
My batteries have lasted a lot longer using the 4 stage charger. I have two 6 volts as well. Best bet is to replace it with the same amperage. The manufacturer has sized it to run all 12v devices at once.
Really simple to swap out.
I replaced my 40 amp with 60amp like the one you are looking at.
SwAp it out and never look back. Spend the extra money and get the charge wizard.
My batteries have lasted a lot longer using the 4 stage charger. I have two 6 volts as well. Best bet is to replace it with the same amperage. The manufacturer has sized it to run all 12v devices at once.
Really simple to swap out.
Last edited:
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
I would chip in, but doorfx already said pretty much what I was gonna say.
Rene G
Active VIP Member
I have a used one, nothing wrong with it for sale if you’re interested. I’ll have to double check the model number, but it is a 3 stage 45 amp
- Admin
- #5
Pardon my ignorance but what advantages do the multistage converters offer over the basic ones that are in the trailer from factory?
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
Multi stage is basically like a smart battery charger. It will go through different cycles like bulk charge, absorption, float, and sometimes equalization. Some will even compensate for temperature. They will also typically stop charging once at 100%. This essentially charges the batteries more gently for lack of a better word, extending battery life.
Your run of the mill charger will typically output 13.4v all the time. This means slower charging, and never fully charged batteries that will reduce the life of a battery.
DRD
Active VIP Member
Home 3 - Progressive Dynamics
The Mighty Mini Compact All-In-One System offers an AC/DC Power Distribution Panel and Inteli-Power Converter with Charge Wizard battery charging technology.
www.progressivedyn.com
Good cables also help. On my old trailer the batteries were in the front, converter in the back. Remounted the new PD converter close within 6 feet and bought some bulk welding cable, made a big difference in charge time...
- Thread starter
- #8
Yea not sure on the amps of the existing one will have to check just bought new Costco golf cart batteries yet to install the 8 year old Trojans are only lasting two nights so I thought now would be a good time to swap out the converter. I have been thinking about this for a while. So would a 60 amp charge the battery faster than a 45 amp? Is it worth the additional cost? Would ether one work ok with a 2000 watt generator the Yamaha generator is not loud but the less I have to run it the better as it is now with the tired batteries after two days I have to run it all day to get through the night and then repeat the next day. I also bought a 100 watt solar panel from crappy tire but not sure if this will make much of a difference as when you need more power the weather is usually cloudy and cold and from what I understand to rely on solar I would need many more panels not into spending that kind of cash on this Just got it on sale to see if will help.
doorfx
Active VIP Member
One outputs 13.6 volts at 45 amp, one outputs 13.6 volts at 60amp so slightly faster bulk charge rate.
The only advantage to 60 amp ,is if you are running extras over and above your trailer requirements. The converter is a glorified battery charger.
The solar panels from crappy tire help for sure. A better option is a solar panel from a solar shop. $230 for a 345 watt panel, but they are not portable you have to mount them. The new panels charge even when it’s cloudy.
I have a 230 watt panel and the only time I run the generators is for A/C or the wife’s hair dryer, toaster etc.
The amperage will be listed right on your converter. Some are completely separate from the fuse box some are together.
www.progressivedyn.com
The only advantage to 60 amp ,is if you are running extras over and above your trailer requirements. The converter is a glorified battery charger.
The solar panels from crappy tire help for sure. A better option is a solar panel from a solar shop. $230 for a 345 watt panel, but they are not portable you have to mount them. The new panels charge even when it’s cloudy.
I have a 230 watt panel and the only time I run the generators is for A/C or the wife’s hair dryer, toaster etc.
The amperage will be listed right on your converter. Some are completely separate from the fuse box some are together.
Home 3 - Progressive Dynamics
The Mighty Mini Compact All-In-One System offers an AC/DC Power Distribution Panel and Inteli-Power Converter with Charge Wizard battery charging technology.
www.progressivedyn.com
Last edited:
doorfx
Active VIP Member
Home 3 - Progressive Dynamics
The Mighty Mini Compact All-In-One System offers an AC/DC Power Distribution Panel and Inteli-Power Converter with Charge Wizard battery charging technology.
www.progressivedyn.com
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
Depending on the size of the wire and the size of the batteries a 60amp will bulk charge faster, but only for the first 30-40% or so of the charge cycle. After that it starts to taper off anyway. If you've only got a pair of 225ah GC2 batteries then your max recommended charging rate is about 55amp, so the 60 amp converter will put a charge in it a bit faster than the 45.
- Thread starter
- #12
ctd
Active VIP Member
The 4th stage of charging is really important as stated & this is were a good Solar Charger is a huge benefit. When the batteries are low they will accept large amounts of current, as they recover they won't accept the large amount.
You have to force the batteries to the final complete charge, the difference between chargers & a big advantage to Lithium. The last stage of complete charging is cycling higher voltage & much lower current, this is when & were a good solar charger works well as it is a slow process. You need to replace in neighbor hood of 105-110% of the charge.
Important is that batteries are not the same & you need different profiles to match manufacture recommendations. Another difference between chargers, solar & converters.
I've 2ea 6vdc Concord lifeline batteries that are 220ah each, that gives 110ah useable. Using a Boggart solar charger & monitor I'm going into the 8th season & no signs of reduced battery capacity. The Boggart monitor displays available battery power in percent, just like fuel gauge & easy to understand exact capacity.
The inverter/converter is a Magnum, it is capable of different profiles for different batteries.
You have to force the batteries to the final complete charge, the difference between chargers & a big advantage to Lithium. The last stage of complete charging is cycling higher voltage & much lower current, this is when & were a good solar charger works well as it is a slow process. You need to replace in neighbor hood of 105-110% of the charge.
Important is that batteries are not the same & you need different profiles to match manufacture recommendations. Another difference between chargers, solar & converters.
I've 2ea 6vdc Concord lifeline batteries that are 220ah each, that gives 110ah useable. Using a Boggart solar charger & monitor I'm going into the 8th season & no signs of reduced battery capacity. The Boggart monitor displays available battery power in percent, just like fuel gauge & easy to understand exact capacity.
The inverter/converter is a Magnum, it is capable of different profiles for different batteries.
blubbles
Active VIP Member
Honestly the 45 amp to 60 amp doesnt make as big of a difference as you expect. Normally these chargers will never be close to charging at the max of their rating anyways. If you had all incandescent bulbs, and left everything on, with water pumps and stereos blasting maybe, but not really the case for most people.
Do some reading on the solar and get some quotes from actual solar stores. I just bought 315W panels for $132 a piece. Paired with proper MPPT controllers and all cabling, I was right around 500 bucks for 630 Watts. Ended up just going with a 40A controller, but charging at 40a is the max I ever want to see those batteries hit at anyways, as that's even over their recommended charge curve.
Do some reading on the solar and get some quotes from actual solar stores. I just bought 315W panels for $132 a piece. Paired with proper MPPT controllers and all cabling, I was right around 500 bucks for 630 Watts. Ended up just going with a 40A controller, but charging at 40a is the max I ever want to see those batteries hit at anyways, as that's even over their recommended charge curve.
doorfx
Active VIP Member
Where did you get the panels? That’s a good price.
blubbles
Active VIP Member
That was at HES in Calgary. You have to be a company to order from them as they are only a wholesaler, but I can always make a call if someone really wants. They are Longi Panels which are pretty well rated panels for the price of them.
DRD
Active VIP Member
The 60A capacity isn't for running all the loads, the fuse and wiring isn't even close to handle it assuming you could turn enough ch!t on.... The 60A is better for cramming power back into your batteries when hooked to shore power in the least amount of time.
ABMax24
Active VIP Member
Most battery manufacturers don't recommend charging a battery faster than C/5, ie a 100A/Hr battery shouldn't be charged at a rate of more than 20 amps. Based on that my 60 amp converter pushes too much current for my 220A/Hr 6 volt GC2 batteries, never mind the standard 12 volt deep cycle the dealer wanted to put in the trailer.
The progressive dynamic converters are good, that's what my trailer has, and will prolong battery life greatly over basic single stage chargers (most lead acid batteries are killed by the owners anyway, drawing down below 50%, leaving the battery discharged for long periods of time, etc). But they are still lacking, they bulk charge at 14.4 volts, most true deep cycle batteries I've found want 14.7 volts, they float at 13.6 volts, most batteries want 13.5 volts. The big one is the equalization mode, progressive dynamics equalize at 14.4 volts, which doesn't equalize the cells on most batteries, most reputable manufacturers are calling for 15.5-16.2 volts for equalization. Not to mention lack of voltage compensation based on temperature.
I setup a 310watt solar panel on my trailer this year, and went with a Victron MPPT 100/20 controller for battery charging, every setting is programmable and can be tailored for the batteries connected, it also varies the charge voltages based on the ambient temperature every morning when charging begins, and I can get an add on temperature sensor for the batteries should I really want precise voltage/temperature correction.
If someone has a bunch of time to kill and wants to know more about lead acid batteries and off grid electrics, here's a good PDF book Victron put out: https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Book-Energy-Unlimited-EN.pdf
The progressive dynamic converters are good, that's what my trailer has, and will prolong battery life greatly over basic single stage chargers (most lead acid batteries are killed by the owners anyway, drawing down below 50%, leaving the battery discharged for long periods of time, etc). But they are still lacking, they bulk charge at 14.4 volts, most true deep cycle batteries I've found want 14.7 volts, they float at 13.6 volts, most batteries want 13.5 volts. The big one is the equalization mode, progressive dynamics equalize at 14.4 volts, which doesn't equalize the cells on most batteries, most reputable manufacturers are calling for 15.5-16.2 volts for equalization. Not to mention lack of voltage compensation based on temperature.
I setup a 310watt solar panel on my trailer this year, and went with a Victron MPPT 100/20 controller for battery charging, every setting is programmable and can be tailored for the batteries connected, it also varies the charge voltages based on the ambient temperature every morning when charging begins, and I can get an add on temperature sensor for the batteries should I really want precise voltage/temperature correction.
If someone has a bunch of time to kill and wants to know more about lead acid batteries and off grid electrics, here's a good PDF book Victron put out: https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Book-Energy-Unlimited-EN.pdf
doorfx
Active VIP Member
You don’t even need batteries. The converter will run everything 12v in your trailer. So it has to be sized to carry the load of everything in your trailer.
- Thread starter
- #20
Yea that is what I am trying to achieve changing out the single stage less time running the generator and also the float so I could leave it plugged in at home we always dry camp so no hook ups when camping
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