HotShotHarry
Active VIP Member
A little bit of filing fixed my brake lever too. Primary clutch spring broke-replaced and good to go again.
Top End Bog
- Thread starter nohlan_4
- Start date
Rhodesie
Active VIP Member
X2. In Golden @ silent pass put on 280 miles in four days and not one hicup.
Stock 62 gram weights. Flash to 8350 rpm and drop and hold @ 8250.
Did a 48 mile flatland ride today at 2650 feet. Stock weight had a bad bog and rpm would flash to 8550 and drop and hold @ 8450. Ouch.
Came home and installed 64 gram and it only bogged once. Still to high of rpm though. Flash to 8450 and drop and hold @ 8350. Can't find my 66 gram weights or i would have tried them. This Pro reacts the same as my 08 800 dragon, to make good pipe heat they like a lot of weight and they seem to like that 8150 mark.
Redlineryan
Active VIP Member
Iv got the 2011 polaris assault rmk as well and so far iv had the clutch issue where it wouldnt disengage. took it in and they messed with the belt deflection and it seems good now. also iv had it drop rpms on me a few times just for a quick second a few times and i wasnt standing or anything so im not sure what that is all about so far in 200 miles i think its done it about 5 times. i had the oil light come on on the way up to allan creek once too i pulled over and looked at the oil and gave it a few revs and it went out. could the cap not venting bring on the oil light? or could it just be that the sensor messed up for a few seconds. it hasnt done it again since.
And the brake has been sticking at the start of rides as well. i think they have way to much brake fluid in it because its impossible to set the park break and the break shouldnt engage that early either so i think i might bleed some out and hopefully that will stop the rubbing and make it easier to set the park break.
And the brake has been sticking at the start of rides as well. i think they have way to much brake fluid in it because its impossible to set the park break and the break shouldnt engage that early either so i think i might bleed some out and hopefully that will stop the rubbing and make it easier to set the park break.
well boys,
I seem to have the same issues. Park brake light when it gets cold/snowy, oil light comes on at high angles then doesnt go off till you turn off, and restart the sled. Top end up described as above, but i had the ethanol plug in. Not sure HOW much that really makes a difference??? I have since changed it, but have not taken it out for a rip with the Non ethanol plug in. HOPE that makes the difference. ANYONE qualified have an opinion on this?
Other than those 3 things im very happy with the machine.
I seem to have the same issues. Park brake light when it gets cold/snowy, oil light comes on at high angles then doesnt go off till you turn off, and restart the sled. Top end up described as above, but i had the ethanol plug in. Not sure HOW much that really makes a difference??? I have since changed it, but have not taken it out for a rip with the Non ethanol plug in. HOPE that makes the difference. ANYONE qualified have an opinion on this?
Other than those 3 things im very happy with the machine.
Oldtrick
Active VIP Member
Co-op definately has ethanol, as does Petro Can and Mohawk, all bad.
Top end stall is a loose wire on the ecm. One of the connectors has a loose wire on some sleds, right from Mfg.
PM, OnlyPolaris and he can fill you in on which one and the fix. Simply push the wire back in and no issues.
Buddy of ours on a Pro went right over the handle bars when his quit.
depthcharger
Active member
use 70g weights around Edmonton and 64g weights in the mountains and get rid of the non-ethanol plug.....will run like a top!!!
These machines like the weight.
These machines like the weight.
Rhodesie
Active VIP Member
Totally agree!
overkill131313
Active VIP Member
you lost me here! your going to take some fluid out? and going to replace it with what????AIR never heard of this! can you explain a little more please!
sounds like the master cylinder ratio to caliper is to high.....master cylinder needs to move less fluid so it would need a smaller piston in it or the caliper needs a bigger piston.....just my 2 cents. but dont take fluid out! the master cylinder hold the fluid to compensate for pad wear......and since most sled brakes self bleed you are just going to lower the fluid in the master cylinder which will do nothing. when your pads get worn you just wont have enough fluid to run the system.....I think polaris is going to have to fix this by redesigning the master cylinder or calper!
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- Thread starter
- #29
Took sled out this weekend with ethanol plug in. Went for alittle rip around my field to replicate the bogging issue. Went back to garage and changed to non-ethanol plug, could not replicate the bog! Running esso 92 octane the whole time. So it seems that changing the plug does clear up the bog the question is why? Is the timing retarded to much with the ethanol plug in and loading up the motor when running good fuel???
Redlineryan
Active VIP Member
I just took mine out around the field and the problem is getting worse. if iv got it pinned at revs 8250-8350 consistant then it will just drop to 6700 and if i still keep it pinned it will just stay at 6700 but if i let off and get back on it it will go back to 8250-8350. Kinda confused
Redlineryan
Active VIP Member
Just called Cycle works and asked about the top end drop out issue and they are having lots of sleds coming in with the same thing and he said even their demo sled is doing it. they think its something to do with the fuel mapping and said their working with polaris to figure it out but for now were SH** OUT OF LUCK
- Thread starter
- #32
Did you try changing the resistor? Seemed to work for me and I tried everything else.
overkill131313
Active VIP Member
Oh man......polaris famous words.......fuel map..... reflash. lol They need to get someone new in their R&D fuel manangment section lol! I thought that guy was fired! lol
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Redlineryan
Active VIP Member
No i did not but i have ethenol in my fuel so i dont really want to try it and have the engine det. on me. i dont really see how that could cause or fix the problem really. was yours doing exactly the same thing? dropping and holding around 6700rpm?
- Thread starter
- #35
Yes my sled at WOT would be revving 8150-8200 then drop suddenly to around 6650-6700 and hold there. If I kept the throttle pinned it would eventually come back and clear up or if I blipped the throttle a couple times it would come back.
dschwindt
Active member
Got a call from the dealer about the bog and they found nothing with digital wrench program also running the newest updates and are now waiting for polaris to get back to them about the next step on what to do with the bog that drops it down to 6500 RPM.
Redlineryan
Active VIP Member
So do you have ethonal in your fuel then or is it non ethonal? i have 94 octane with ethonal so i dont have the thenol resistor in but if your running ethonal fuel with the non ethenol plug in and it cleared it up?? then i dont know haha
Mikew5j
Active VIP Member
I'm basically in the same situation. My dealer is waiting on Polaris.
- Thread starter
- #39
No ethanol in my fuel. So I was thinking it might have something to do with running high octane fuel without ethanol, with the non-ethanol resistor in. Could this be the problem?
Redlineryan
Active VIP Member
If yours is running good now it seems like it could be a problem with the computer and the stupid resister deal. but now that i think of it the tank of gas in my sled is from a gas station in blue river i didnt pay attention to what octane their premium was or if it was with or without ethonal for all i know i might have non-ethonal fuel in mine too but have it set to run ethonal fuel... confusing.
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