To the "experts"; thoughts and insights please.

[Lightningmike]

A couple years ago My 2012 Ford was killing battery overnight.
Figured out the dash lights were staying on all night. It was a small button the shifter touches when in park to tell ecm that is parked. It wasn't contacting. Ford changes out the whole shifter mechanism . Found the button on line and changed myself. End of problem.

Just in case it starts killing battery fast

 

[Caper11]

There is a positive note to this dilemma; the check gas cap light and the check engine light have now gone off. The check engine light has been on for nearly two years.

Is the CEL related to the evap leak???

Is there any aftermarket equipment is installed on the truck? For example an inverter???
I had a aftermarket remote start go wonky and it drained the battery fast. I had to have it replaced when it a draw test was done. Problem went away.
If your worried about it happening again, pull the IOD fuse, or Ignition Off Draw fuse, that will kill the power to the cab while the truck sits.

We have a newer ford gas picker truck that for some reason will kill the battery very quick, to the point that a battery disconnect had to be installed. The ford dealer cannot figure it out, but the software update comment has me wondering now.

 

[ferniesnow]

Is the CEL related to the evap leak???

Is there any aftermarket equipment is installed on the truck? For example an inverter???
I had a aftermarket remote start go wonky and it drained the battery fast. I had to have it replaced when it a draw test was done. Problem went away.
If your worried about it happening again, pull the IOD fuse, or Ignition Off Draw fuse, that will kill the power to the cab while the truck sits.

We have a newer ford gas picker truck that for some reason will kill the battery very quick, to the point that a battery disconnect had to be installed. The ford dealer cannot figure it out, but the software update comment has me wondering now.

The CEL is something to do with an oxygen sensor. It was detected with a coder and erased but it came back shortly afterwards. That was a year and half ago. If the battery is okay, I will do what retiredpop said and see if there is some draw happening when a tester is connected. Good idea about the IOD fuse.

 

[tex78]

There is a positive note to this dilemma; the check gas cap light and the check engine light have now gone off. The check engine light has been on for nearly two years.

Lol

It was off last fall for a few days lol

Cause I cleared them codes

 

[maxwell]

If you dont find a solution here is one for 24$.

 

[arff]

Last resort

 

[Legend14]

If you dont find a solution here is one for 24$.





View attachment 247225

Is there one for the other style too? Man that’s a great anti theft device aswel

 

[X-it]

Pull the negative of the battery. Put the test light between the post and the ground wire. If the light illuminates, you have a draw. Use the fuse pull method to find the draw; when the light goes out, you found the draw, glad to hear your check engine light went out.

 

[Summitric]

Pull the negative of the battery. Put the test light between the post and the ground wire. If the light illuminates, you have a draw. Use the fuse pull method to find the draw; when the light goes out, you found the draw, glad to hear your check engine light went out.

this is true but not... there is a minimum drain on every vehicle battery for memory for radio, computers etc.... there is a maximum milliwatt specification for most vehicles as to what the battery drain should be. either way, most will illuminate the test lite using your method. need a good voltmeter to test the battery drain

 

[X-it]

Oh wow this guy is awesome at finding draws better than the pull fuses.

 

[Mike270412]

The old white truck always kills the battery if it sits for more than a week or so. I just disconnect it.

 

[LMLCHEVY]

this is true but not... there is a minimum drain on every vehicle battery for memory for radio, computers etc.... there is a maximum milliwatt specification for most vehicles as to what the battery drain should be. either way, most will illuminate the test lite using your method. need a good voltmeter to test the battery drain

I like to use a test light with a 12 volt incandescent bulb first before I put my meter in line if I don’t have my amp clamp handy. If it gets real bright real fast then I don’t bother putting my meter in line. Easier on fuses lol.

 

[kanedog]

I’m all charged up over this thread! Haha

 

[Summitric]

I like to use a test light with a 12 volt incandescent bulb first before I put my meter in line if I don’t have my amp clamp handy. If it gets real bright real fast then I don’t bother putting my meter in line. Easier on fuses lol.

I've found that test lites can give a small voltage kick when first touched, and sometimes will trigger enough sudden power draw to cause the faulty component to shut down, whereas a multi-meter is just measuring the voltage. We've been burned by this a few times. But yes for quick tests, works fine

 

[pipes]

this is true but not... there is a minimum drain on every vehicle battery for memory for radio, computers etc.... there is a maximum milliwatt specification for most vehicles as to what the battery drain should be. either way, most will illuminate the test lite using your method. need a good voltmeter to test the battery drain

this is true but not. you need a good ammeter to do this test.

 

[Summitric]

this is true but not. you need a good ammeter to do this test.

That's all we have...

 

[ferniesnow]

Thanks a bunch guys. A good thread with good discussion and it is very funny that it didn't go sideways!!

According to the battery supplier, Kal Tire, the battery tested okay. So, should I get a second opinion on the health of the battery? Or do I pick and choose something from above that I can get my "non-electrical" brain around and do some trouble shooting??

 

[Grinder]

If battery tested good follow the wire. Get the alternator tested.

 

[X-it]

Well it could be something as simple as corroded negative cable or corroded battery connections, so instead of the battery going dead it is not getting fully charged enough as you drive.

 

[arff]

Do you have any aftermarket stuff installed.

Possibly uses a relay.
Maybe it is stuck on.

Think of easy stuff to check first.

Connections are tight.
No corrosion
Check alternator diode might be open

Anything hogging in power outlets

Good luck