Tips on mods on a Vertical Escape -03?

[maverick661]

Hi!

First of all I just want to say that since I'm from Sweden I'm not too used to speak or write english just so you know.

I was thinking of modding my Vertical Escape a bit. I have bought betterboards for it, and a taller barriser+ a new bar since the last owner had bent the original one.

I have also heard that you can dismount the sway bar so that it handles better in deep snow, but how do I do that and how does the snowmobile handle on trail afterwards?

Also I was thinking of dismounting the boggiewheels and moving the rear ones in on the inside of the boggierail. Something like this:
2004 RMK 800 159" Vertical Escape FOR SALE - SnoWest Forum

I just don't know how he did with the shaft?

Track porting, how do I do that with a good result? Can you have too few or too many holes? I read somewhere that the snow inside the boggie helped cooling the machine, a thing I could have use for. Is this correct?

Ideas and suggestions are very welcome!

 

[E-Zmoke]

PM Sent

If you remove your bogie wheels and go with the big wheel kit don't forget Ice scratchers to lubricate, and keep temps down on the skid. Sway bar removal is easy and is the best cheapest mod for our sleds. Simply take a grinder and cut the sway bar as close as you can to the belly pan. Benifits are easier sidehilling and pulling the sled over. Your skis will work independintly from one another rather than tied together. Which will allow one ski to be off the snow when you want it. Do not worry about how the sled will handle in the trails afterwards. You wont really be able to tell the difference. It's slightly different but no different then how a newer sled handles in the trails. Highly recomend this.

 

[maverick661]

PM Sent

If you remove your bogie wheels and go with the big wheel kit don't forget Ice scratchers to lubricate, and keep temps down on the skid. Sway bar removal is easy and is the best cheapest mod for our sleds. Simply take a grinder and cut the sway bar as close as you can to the belly pan. Benifits are easier sidehilling and pulling the sled over. Your skis will work independintly from one another rather than tied together. Which will allow one ski to be off the snow when you want it. Do not worry about how the sled will handle in the trails afterwards. You wont really be able to tell the difference. It's slightly different but no different then how a newer sled handles in the trails. Highly recomend this.

I'm in need of ice scratchers anyhow and have ordered a set. I think I will remove the sway bar, but the hole thats left through the belly, should I cover that in someway?

Thank you for the answer!

 

[E-Zmoke]

I'm in need of ice scratchers anyhow and have ordered a set. I think I will remove the sway bar, but the hole thats left through the belly, should I cover that in someway?

Thank you for the answer!

I wouldn't worry about it, the hole left will be underneith the engine compartment

 

[E-Zmoke]

This is a post taken from (Snowest) by a guy named "Kraven"

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

HOLTZMANN ATAAC FUEL COMPENSATOR, spot on jetting ALL the time $ 245.00 from www.holtzmannengineering.com mileage increased from 10.5 m.p.g. to approx 13 m.p.g. noticeably more responsive on bottom end and mid-range.

SLP HI-Comp heads, for use with 91 octane ($330) improved bottom end & mid-range GRUNT!!



almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

3) Send your primary clutch out to have it balanced. Since these sleds have a bad rep for wasting the crankshafts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout (remove primary) and periodically check the run-out. 002"-.0025" is the MOST I would want to see. Made a NOTICEABLE improvement in smoothness and extends crankshaft and clutch life, they drilled 8-9 lightening holes in mine, that's how far off it was from the factory!! SLP and others charge only $35.00 for this service. Do this after you've set the belt to sheave clearance.

4) FLATLANDER SET-UP FOR 800 EDGE
a) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
b) 66 gram stock weights, OR
c) SLP's 68 gram MTX'S with 3 grams in the tip, plus 2 to 3 grams in the middle, slight improvement over 66's


SECONDARY

Button Secondary

1) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

2) Replace the (3) little plastic wear buttons, they're approx $ 1.00 each

3) FLATLANDER SET-UP FOR 800 EDGE
a) Stock SOLID BLUE Secondary Spring
b) R-49 Helix, (POLARIS Part # 5133023)

Roller Secondary TSS-98 or TSS-04

1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

2) FLATLANDER SET-UP FOR 800 EDGE
a) Helix 70-42.46 duration SLP part # 50-90
b) Secondary spring 140/200 Red/Dark Blue SLP part # 50-4


The old style button clutch was faster on top end



BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset, center to center, and check for engine "crooked"), mine and my bud's were off!!!! You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket(s) to get it perfect. Use thin Chevrolet style starter shims available @ Auto Parts stores under the “HELP” brand.

2) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the #3211087 belt, it's a CLOSE TOLERANCE version of the #3211080






CLUTCH TOOLS, USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE RIGHT JOB

TOP= POLARIS LWT Part # PS-47477 identifiable by the LWT 1 1/2" tall letters inscribed (approx .070" of built -in "kick" WHICH IS GENERALLY MORE THAN YOU WANT!!!!!!) for use with TSS-04 LIGHTWEIGHT SECONDARY ONLY (contacts the outside of the secondary)


MIDDLE= SLP part # 20-191 This tool is parallel, "straight" no built-in "kick". For use with roller secondarys fits the TSS-98 PERFECTLY, Will work with TSS-04 requires .100" setback measurement to be factored in with a stack of feeler gauges or vernier caliper.(contacts the outside of the secondary) SLP now has a new tool specific to the TSS-04 to where you don't have to jerk around with measuring .100" back, new for 2010, PART # 20-188 $49.95, TEAM also has tools specific to the TSS-98 and TSS-04


NEXT TO BOTTOM= SLP part # 20-150 Standard for "Old style" button secondary, Basically EDGE's and older Indy's. 5/8" OFFSET between backside of secondary. This tool is parallel, as in "straight", no built-in "kick" (contacts the backside of the secondary which is somewhat inaccurate as the backside of the secondary "moves" with the width adjustment on the models with externally adjustable width secondarys)


Bottom Hi -Performance Engineering Center to Center Tool, E-Z to fabricate out of a piece of Scrap Aluminum or Steel, cut-out for jackshaft is 1" Exactly, after that 11.5" c/c. After that you do NOT need the additional 1/2" diameter holes shown in the pic, only the 1" horse shoe or 1" round hole cut-out is req'd and then put some black magic marker on the edge of the tool, tap lightly on the crank snout and you'll have your mark, compare that to your 11.5" scribe mark


I've HEARD REPORTS OF SOME TOOLS NOT BEING "STRAIGHT", PROBABLY NOT A BAD IDEA TO CHECK 'EM WITH A STRAIGHT EDGE!!!!!!!






ENGINE LIMITERS

1) SLP push engine limiter MAG side ($47.95) SLP part # 23-50 (E-Z 20 minute installation, only one hole to drill into your aluminum bulkhead)

2) WMS Engine torque arm, P.T.O. side, in front of the engine. ($82.95) sold also by SLP part #23-53 (E-Z bolt-on installation, no holes to drill)


T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think)

1) Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Make sure you have EXACTLY 5.0 VOLTS FOR TESTING PURPOSES. Don't overlook this! Look at the how to set your T.P.S. info here on this site, all the info is there.

2) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

3) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if neccesary.




CHAINCASE and GEARS and CHAIN TENSION

1) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from auto cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"

2) FLATLANDER SET-UP FOR 800 EDGE
Stock factory gearing is 25/40, change the bottom gear to (41), same 76 pitch chain still fits, less of a dog leg, acceleration improves a little, no loss in top end.


EXHAUST VALVES

1) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

2) The original exhaust valves are aluminum, which were prone to failure and severe engine damage could result. Then they went to titanium, and the latest and greatest are Stainless Steel, identifiable by the heavier weight and "relief cut outs"

3) The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.

4) POLARIS part # 2202838 (order two kits, it's only enough parts for one cylinder) includes stainless valve, orange bellow, and 1 exhaust spring.



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 stock, 55:1 to 60: 1 is better.

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.

3) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred



PREFERRED by MOUNTAIN RIDERS, DEBATEABLE for FLATLANDERS

1) SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.

2) Anti-ratchet drive wheels, a real P.I.T.A. to install, (also have to send your track out to get the windows puched out and fully clipped, LELAND PERFORMANCE, Washington State) had to cut the rail tips 2 5/16", relocate cross bar and hyfax mounting holes, and from here on out have to cut the front of the hyfax's as well


WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign

3) Boost bottles


HAVE A GREAT SEASON!!!!!!!!!

 

[MWatts]

You do not have to cut off the sway bar...Take one of the trail arms of and just loose the other one a little bit,drill out the rivets for the sway bar bushings and just slide it right out!

 

[maverick661]

You do not have to cut off the sway bar...Take one of the trail arms of and just loose the other one a little bit,drill out the rivets for the sway bar bushings and just slide it right out!

Okay, that's how I will do it then. Thanks!

 

[MWatts]

Anytime!

 

[H2O]

Slp pipe set is a good mod...... looses 15 lbs and improves performance by about 10 hp.

I would not port the track..... There is no proof that this helps any.... and IMO I think it just weakens the track.

Gear down by one tooth on the top gear...... only about $20.00 -$30.00.

Then use proper weights in the primary for your elevation to hit 8000 RPM.

This will make it rip!!