Tapping Chaincase drain plug

[Jorgy]

If you told someone to design the worst possible chain case for accessibility and maintenance I still don’t think it could be worse than AC’s design on my 16 proclimb. I’m not even mad its kinda hysterical how bad it is. Has no drain plug, they way over torque those little black screws from factory so half them are stripped just getting them out, each bolt location requires a different extension length, socket drive, ect. The plastic side panel is in your way half the time so I pretty much removed my seat to get it out of the way. Oh and that automatic tensioner is a piece of junk. I might actually be able to re-build my old pro engine faster than it took me to change gearing. Rant over LOL.

Has anyone installed their own drain plug into this case before? Think of tapping one in while I have it apart.

If this was a longer term sled I’d be putting a belt drive on.

 

[Jjanke]

If it’s not a long term sled it’s not worth putting a drain plug in imo. I think you’re complaining about a small issue and making a bigger deal than it is.

Yes the access isn’t the best, but you only need to change the gear oil once each year. Minor deal. Everyone knows that the auto tensioner is not great. There are options out there to install a manual tensioner which would be a better mod to do rather than the drain plug in my opinion.

I’ve removed the chain case covers on 3 different occasions from 2 different proclimbs before without any issues. The previous owner may have lock tited the shi* out of those bolts when he did the chain oil.

 

[174mcx]

take it to a shop and get a bung welded on.

 

[neilsleder]

take it to a shop and get a bung welded on.

Most chain cases can’t be welded. They are alloyed with something that does not like to be welded, I think it magnesium. Everyone I have tried is a no go. Can get it stuck but makes very brittle weld.

 

[174mcx]

good to know, I have a bung on the bench I was going to try to put on next time I had it apart. Quite a long time ago I had a couple different chaincases welded up at a shop in town here, I thought it would be no big deal. thanks

 

[Lund]

Is this really an issue?
Here is the deal, doing a chain case oil change is simply not enough.
In my opinion drain plugs are not needed to properly maintain the chain drive.
Anyone that owns a sled of any make, Cat, Doo, Yamaha and Polaris should PULL the chain case cover OFF once a year.
Simply doing an oil change is not going to do much as a visual inspection of the components inside, your not going to see a cracked link or possibly an dislocated snap ring.
Personally I pull the case cover off all my sled to visually inspect and periodically change the oil at about 1000 miles during the season.
On the Cat all you need to do for a basic oil change is loosen the cover bolts. You do not need to remove them. Once it’s drained retighten the bolts to spec. and refill. It’s a 30min job at most.

sorry for bad grammar and spelling, fat fingers and cell phones ��

 

[Jorgy]

Is this really an issue?
Here is the deal, doing a chain case oil change is simply not enough.
In my opinion drain plugs are not needed to properly maintain the chain drive.
Anyone that owns a sled of any make, Cat, Doo, Yamaha and Polaris should PULL the chain case cover OFF once a year.
Simply doing an oil change is not going to do much as a visual inspection of the components inside, your not going to see a cracked link or possibly an dislocated snap ring.
Personally I pull the case cover off all my sled to visually inspect and periodically change the oil at about 1000 miles during the season.
On the Cat all you need to do for a basic oil change is loosen the cover bolts. You do not need to remove them. Once it’s drained retighten the bolts to spec. and refill. It’s a 30min job at most.

sorry for bad grammar and spelling, fat fingers and cell phones ��

I just wanted to rant for fun, the intent of the post is too see if anyone has trying installing a drain plug. Would be nice to have as I prefer to change the oil at 500-600 miles so usually at least twice a season. Agree with taking it off to inspect in the summer for sure.

Also the loosen off the bolts till it drains works but just creates a bit of a mess thats all. A drain plug would clean it up nicely and could be a simple improvement. Work smarter not harder!

 

[neilsleder]

good to know, I have a bung on the bench I was going to try to put on next time I had it apart. Quite a long time ago I had a couple different chaincases welded up at a shop in town here, I thought it would be no big deal. thanks

I would try a wrecked one first. Don’t try a good one. Cast aluminum is hit or miss if it can be welded. All the ones I tried were ski doo. Maybe cat can be welded?

 

[jpmez69]

If you told someone to design the worst possible chain case for accessibility and maintenance I still don’t think it could be worse than AC’s design on my 16 proclimb. I’m not even mad its kinda hysterical how bad it is. Has no drain plug, they way over torque those little black screws from factory so half them are stripped just getting them out, each bolt location requires a different extension length, socket drive, ect. The plastic side panel is in your way half the time so I pretty much removed my seat to get it out of the way. Oh and that automatic tensioner is a piece of junk. I might actually be able to re-build my old pro engine faster than it took me to change gearing. Rant over LOL.

Has anyone installed their own drain plug into this case before? Think of tapping one in while I have it apart.

If this was a longer term sled I’d be putting a belt drive on.

Forget about what everyone else has been yammering about on this thread. I remember having to remove twin pipes and muffer along with 8 springs on the Wildcat 700 just to check oil level back in the day. I agree with you if you want to replace the oil more than once per season and don't always want to pull the cover. Always a good idea to check chain tension at the same time. Pull the cover. You'll probably have to remove the chain and sprockets for this time. ( not a lot of room between lower sprocket and inner case) Use a 1/8 pilot to start. Get yourself a Q size drill bit or a 21/64. Tap hole to 1/8-27 NPT and brake clean case with compressed air. Install 1/8 NPT plug with pipe sealant. Don't overtighten. No mess no fuss. Quality time spent improving your cat product!

 

[Lund]

I just wanted to rant for fun, the intent of the post is too see if anyone has trying installing a drain plug. Would be nice to have as I prefer to change the oil at 500-600 miles so usually at least twice a season. Agree with taking it off to inspect in the summer for sure.

Also the loosen off the bolts till it drains works but just creates a bit of a mess thats all. A drain plug would clean it up nicely and could be a simple improvement. Work smarter not harder!

One of the reason people are stripping the threads on the case cover is because of incorrect torque. A/C service manual is actually incorrect on the torque value and i do not know if they have actually corrected the mistake.
The info. given is 12ftlbs/144inlbs, that has been corrected to 8ftlbs/96inlbs - 9ftlbs/110inlbs. One of the reason we are seeing so many stripped cases and some people don't bother using torque wrenches and wing it.

 

[Allseasons]

The route I went. I hated that stupid bulky oil tank. Both covers are magniesium. Welding bungs doesnt work, drill and tap does.

 

[Clode]

I replaced the torx screws with real bolts, what a difference

 

[tmo1620]

Easiest fix is to do away with that crap chaincase and go belt drive, I got sick of all the extra time and effort involved with a chaincase over the years, specialty belt dive from now on

 

[AC4life]

I will be removing the chain case cover, cleaning and inspecting chain case, changing oil and reinstalling. First time doing one on a pro climb and just looking for any tips and suggestions to make the job go smooth. Sounds like there are a couple guys on here that have done a few. Looked for a good how-to video on YouTube and there is one for about every model of sled BUT the proclimb haha. Any tips/advice would be great. Thanks!

 

[AC4life]

Anyone know what size torx screws are on the chaincase cover? I am flying home from work today and am picking up a new torx set and want to make sure I have the correct size when I get home. Thanks.

 

[Jorgy]

Anyone know what size torx screws are on the chaincase cover? I am flying home from work today and am picking up a new torx set and want to make sure I have the correct size when I get home. Thanks.

It's a T27 or T30, I can't remember which one

 

[AC4life]

It's a T27 or T30, I can't remember which one

Thanks.

 

[Allseasons]

Buy the good solid tip torx bits. Those tamper proof tips are garbage, break right away

 

[Radar78]

I agree with the OP. Way too much work involved just to give a chain case the once over and change the oil. And am I the only one who struggled to get the dam seat off my ‘16? Came off a lot easier on my ‘12 and ‘13.

 

[tmo1620]

I agree with the OP. Way too much work involved just to give a chain case the once over and change the oil. And am I the only one who struggled to get the dam seat off my ‘16? Came off a lot easier on my ‘12 and ‘13.

The little seats are a pain in the a$$ sometimes to get off and on, the big older style seats or electric start seats are super easy to take off and on