T3 174 Basic Suspension Set Up

catmando

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Did a bit of research on What guys start with on theses sleds. When I got this sled the front springs were set way too soft (on the last 3 threads ) The limiter is pulled in 1 hole and the front skid shock was set hard, only 5 of 6 threads left, I added heavy springs on the rear. Took it too the mountains and certainly wasn’t as flick able as other T3 ‘s I’ve ridden. This set up I know is wrong and the sleds nose seemed like it was in the dirt. I stiffened up the front, let out the limiter strap and softened up the front skid. Haven’t rode it yet , was wondering if my fellow dootards can give me any tips and if you think this setup will work better, I’m a big dude so not concerned with wheelies lol
 

new24stroke

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I,m following this one. I just picked up same sled. Going to see how it rides this weekend
 

kingcat162

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I've got the same sled but turbo'd - the xm 174's aren't very flickable - if you want flickable you would have to ride a gen4 175 - some people put in the torsion spacers helps them from snow sagging so much - I disconnect my sway bar at cabin and put it back on when I'm headed down that helps alot
 

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Limiter all the way out, All. The. Way!!
Front skid shock a little firm. Rear spring as soft as possible. Spacers work great.
Ski shocks as stiff as you can handle.
I run Raptors so I dial down the compression some.
Sway bar attached.
Try it. I dare yah! Lol
It’s a hoot in the trees and deep snow.
 
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catmando

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I bought it because it’s not as flickable as the Gen 4 , I’m 270, I breath on the g4 and it flips lol, other T3 sleds I’ve rode are easier handling, I know the suspension was all wrong, I’m just interested In getting it as good as I can stock, the heavy springs are a better option than the spacers, I could add spacers but clearly not needed, the rear of the skid is fine, I’m a cat guy on a Doo, looking for what guys , hopefully a couple fat guys, that got it working properly thx
 
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catmando

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Limiter all the way out, All. The. Way!!
Front skid shock a little firm. Rear spring as soft as possible. Spacers work great.
Ski shocks as stiff as you can handle.
I run Raptors so I dial down the compression some.
Sway bar attached.
Try it. I dare yah! Lol
It’s a hoot in the trees and deep snow.

That’s what I’m looking for, will take that into account, next trip I will try em all I assure you
 
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catmando

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I rode it three days in the big hills, was ok but definatly needs improvement and I didn’t mess with it much
 

ShawnPrince

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I rode it three days in the big hills, was ok but definatly needs improvement and I didn’t mess with it much
What I found worked best on my t3 174 was:

I am 5-11 190 lbs ride all kinds of terrain but generally boondocking and tree ridding.

3" riser on the bars stock is too long

Ski shock spring preload on 4 leave sway bar connected.

Limiter strap 1 hole from shortest mid season in good snow. 2 holes out in spring/early season.

Skid center shock with light preload

Reat torsion spring on 5 carrying gas can, 4 without gas can.
 
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catmando

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What I found worked best on my t3 174 was:

I am 5-11 190 lbs ride all kinds of terrain but generally boondocking and tree ridding.

3" riser on the bars stock is too long

Ski shock spring preload on 4 leave sway bar connected.

Limiter strap 1 hole from shortest mid season in good snow. 2 holes out in spring/early season.

Skid center shock with light preload

Reat torsion spring on 5 carrying gas can, 4 without gas can.

That makes sense, I basically set it up as you said. The only difference would be the limiter all the way out, I’m pretty heavy so keeping the front down isn’t as much of a concern , thx for your reply
 

tex78

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I haven't even played with mine, it's as it was from dealer, chit I haven't even tightened the track lol, in 5900 km

I find it works good, doesn't trench and still can get skis up a bit if needed

Only thing I have done is the spring bushings with stock springs

Look at the springs and how they are bound and crooked on the shaft stock, that's one reason I added the bushings, it stopped them from wearing and being all goofy
 

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Sounds like you want less ski pressure Lyle. Since I know your low center of gravity build....this is where I would start.
Ski shocks with only a little preload (less than half the range)
Limit strap one hole out from stock (due to the heavier rear springs)
Center skid shock as soft as possible
Start with the rear springs in 3 with the heavier springs

If you feel you are trenching go right to position 5 on the rear springs. If it feels front heavy try adding some preload to the center skid shock. Letting the limiter out will have the front end going up and the backend going down; then the shovels come out. Like you said you are a big dude and getting the suspension to transfer is not an issue.
 
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catmando

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Sounds like you want less ski pressure Lyle. Since I know your low center of gravity build....this is where I would start.
Ski shocks with only a little preload (less than half the range)
Limit strap one hole out from stock (due to the heavier rear springs)
Center skid shock as soft as possible
Start with the rear springs in 3 with the heavier springs

If you feel you are trenching go right to position 5 on the rear springs. If it feels front heavy try adding some preload to the center skid shock. Letting the limiter out will have the front end going up and the backend going down; then the shovels come out. Like you said you are a big dude and getting the suspension to transfer is not an issue.

Thx Rob , makes sense,will give er a go, you going too mm this year?
 
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catmando

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I think my biggest issue is the centre spring was set almost as hard as possible, and there was zero pressure on the skis. Looking forward to getting it out again, this set up was no where near stock, thinking the guy that had it before me was just guessing lol .........clearly lost that challenge haha!
 

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I would suggest the rear spring spacers... Definately helps the rear spring seat straight and won't cause any spring binding. I definately noticed a difference with them on, and i had the "fatboy" springs on. I was able to set the rear spring ramps to 3rd step from the highest step.
 

pfi572

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Also check the back bushings and remember you don’t have to have the spring settings the same on the back ?
Gives a lot more adjustments .
Another trick is to move the front mount bolts back into the next hole in tunnel.
Look inside the tunnel and you will see the holes to drill out.
Only move the front as it will reduce attack angle and stiffen up the back end.
 
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catmando

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Once I get things set up too the best of my knowledge and screwing around , I may add the spring bushings as well.....great info gentleman , thanks for the input. Will update after I make changes and go for a rip! J
 

Bnorth

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I couldn't really make mine playful. Maybe I could have dropped the limiter another hole but I didn't want to sacrifice the climbing ability. I'm a heavy fat ass 6'3" 270# I had ski shocks maxed out or they would bottom on trail whoops, center shock at 3, any less and it was too easy to bottom out on whoops, more than 3 and it trenched, and rear at 5, less than 5 and it sagged with snow weight in it. It worked really well and came on edge easily but just wasn't playful enough for my liking.
 
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catmando

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I will likely add them, was told by a couple guys with the heavy springs the spacers are not needed, will have everything else done and set up except the spacers , if it works for me without the spacers I will save 80 bucks. Should have done them both I guess .
 
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