sway bar removal

Philster

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Not if you only dissconect one side. The other side stays attached to the A-arm keeping the actual bar out of the way and secured. No need to cut it out or anything. Kinda helps for resale cause you can re-attach it.

Would it help an old snowmobiler with his 2000 Summit 600.
I have one heck of a time steering it.It has all the power and get up and go I need but it is just too heavy to steer and handle.Especially in deep snow.:d:d:d:d:d
 

pancake

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It sure would but, I might be wrong, but I don't think that chassis has a sway bar. I'm not sure what would make that chassis tip over easier.
 

Philster

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It sure would but, I might be wrong, but I don't think that chassis has a sway bar. I'm not sure what would make that chassis tip over easier.

Thanks You could be right.I'll have to look.That's how much I pay attention to thing's i usually just get on it pull the rope and go.No MOD"S on my machine all stock.:):):):):):)
 

Philster

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Thanks You could be right.I'll have to look.That's how much I pay attention to thing's i usually just get on it pull the rope and go.No MOD"S on my machine all stock.:):):):):):)

Well I just had to know so I went out and had a look it does have a stabilizer bar just behind the front shock's.But it sure looks like a beech to get out.The ends are connected to the trailing arm's.:confused::confused::confused::confused:
 

Octane

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Would it help an old snowmobiler with his 2000 Summit 600.
I have one heck of a time steering it.It has all the power and get up and go I need but it is just too heavy to steer and handle.Especially in deep snow.:d


Thanks You could be right.I'll have to look.That's how much I pay attention to thing's i usually just get on it pull the rope and go.No MOD"S on my machine all stock.:):):):)


If you want an easier time throwing your sled around i suggest a 4 inch riser, its short enough that you can still sit and its tall enough that you get plenty of leverage.
 

Scrambled

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On my older summit I put new daul runner concave skis on it,its like a totaly different handling machine,way better
 

Octane

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All you need for a 4 inch riser is a throttle cable extension. they pretty cheap and dam near retard proof to install. the difference is remarkable once you have it, i weigh 145, i could throw around a 500lb++ sled without an issue ( i had a 2000 summit 700 144" )
 

Philster

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Loose the bar..you won't be disappointed.

Okay I think I'll try it.
Any ideas on how to remove it with out destroying it.I have the Skidoo shop manual but it kinda sucks it only shows a parts blow-up but no removal procedure.
I don't want to cut it out as I'd like to be able to put it back in if I don't like it or if I sell the Sled.
:):):):):)
 

BC Sno-Ghost

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Okay I think I'll try it.
Any ideas on how to remove it with out destroying it.I have the Skidoo shop manual but it kinda sucks it only shows a parts blow-up but no removal procedure.
I don't want to cut it out as I'd like to be able to put it back in if I don't like it or if I sell the Sled.
:):):):):)

I'm gonna give Pancake's recommendation a try before I fully remove it. I know these guys know what they're talking about but how you ride and what you want out of your sled is very subjective thing. Try it and see if "YOU" like it first. I'm also going to try to make a quik connect/dis-connect :beer:
 

Philster

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Okay thanks for all the great advice.I went with a 2" riser as the hydraulic brake hose was too short for any thing larger.
Now I'd like too remove the Stabilizer bar but still not sure how to do it.I'm trying to include the shop manual parts blow up.If any one knows how to get it out with out destroying it I would appreciate the advice. Skidoo 2000 Stab.bar.JPG
Thanks again for any advice for this old sledder and also do You think it would make a difference on this type of front suspension.
:):):):):):):):):)
 

Octane

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Has any one pulled the sway bar outa there summit xp completely? is it worth buying the quick connect kit?
 
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Sleeper700

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When I removed the bar from my 2000 700, I drilled out the rivets that hold the plastic guides to the bulkhead, and then disconnected one trailing arm at the back, then pulled the sway bar out. It was very easy, and then you can re-rivet the plastic guides back on and plug the holes, or leave them off (haven't had a problem with snow entering yet!). I kept the parts, so if I sell the sled, they will go with it. The swaybar will never go back on it while I own it. For the XPs, I have heard that it is a pain in the ass to find something to cover the holes with once it is out, and on the XP, you definately want to cover the holes. I guess you could make the holes bigger and put SLP round vents in their place. Everyone I have heard that bought the quick disconnects said they were a waste of money because they never hook them up anyway.
 

Philster

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When I removed the bar from my 2000 700, I drilled out the rivets that hold the plastic guides to the bulkhead, and then disconnected one trailing arm at the back, then pulled the sway bar out. It was very easy, and then you can re-rivet the plastic guides back on and plug the holes, or leave them off (haven't had a problem with snow entering yet!). I kept the parts, so if I sell the sled, they will go with it. The swaybar will never go back on it while I own it. For the XPs, I have heard that it is a pain in the ass to find something to cover the holes with once it is out, and on the XP, you definately want to cover the holes. I guess you could make the holes bigger and put SLP round vents in their place. Everyone I have heard that bought the quick disconnects said they were a waste of money because they never hook them up anyway.

Okay Thanks alot.That is exactly the information I was looking for.I had an idea about it but I always like to get advice before I mess it up not after.
Saves on the stress.
Sounds like it helped on You sled what difference did it make to the handling???
 

Sleeper700

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I can keep the sled on one ski and the track for as long as I want, on the flats with very little snow. It makes it so you can sidehill anything you want as long as you practice a little bit. I don't notice an issue with cornering on the trail like a few people say when you remove it, but I am not trying to do Mach 3 around corners... and if you want, you can adjust your front springs pretty quickly at the truck, then at the top of the trail.
 
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