hpjunkie
Active member
My experience also. You can try a set of 412 ramps with your current setup, or increase primary finish.
Summit XM pin weight, picture inside
- Thread starter lsone
- Start date
My experience also. You can try a set of 412 ramps with your current setup, or increase primary finish.
slededjr
Active VIP Member
414 work good too. Tip is a little steeper then 441 allowing higher rpm and recover quicker then 441 also.
- Thread starter
- #23
I talked with joe on the phone today(still waiting for a call/email back from roosterbuilt). Also figured out what primary spring is in the roosterbuilt kit, brp YELLOW.
joe also suggested putting the stock can on saying the can could be an issue as the etec is pretty temperamental to back pressure. However I can't be certain that my memory is solid. I told him
no matter the clicker change I didn't see a big rpm difference. I do remember cranking the clicker to 6 and seeing lots of rpm but felt like a lost a pile of track speed.
So from the phone call he told me to go up on the final seat pressure for the primary spring and leave the pin weight where it is. However i forget what he said I should jump to. FACK!
joe also suggested putting the stock can on saying the can could be an issue as the etec is pretty temperamental to back pressure. However I can't be certain that my memory is solid. I told him
no matter the clicker change I didn't see a big rpm difference. I do remember cranking the clicker to 6 and seeing lots of rpm but felt like a lost a pile of track speed.
So from the phone call he told me to go up on the final seat pressure for the primary spring and leave the pin weight where it is. However i forget what he said I should jump to. FACK!
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pfi572
Active VIP Member
^^^^
That's funny on the muffler .
Joe and I are good friends and that's why I suggested it as have seen problems with mufflers before.
Keep tuning and you will get
It pulling the recommended 7900 rpm.
Braaaaaap
That's funny on the muffler .
Joe and I are good friends and that's why I suggested it as have seen problems with mufflers before.
Keep tuning and you will get
It pulling the recommended 7900 rpm.
Braaaaaap
- Thread starter
- #25
i don't disagree. I was sold on the roosterbuilt doolade... I did find my stock gear. I'd just like to get this sorted before a mountain trip and I'm fighting with sub par clutching. The stock springs had about 1000km on them so I don't want to put those back in. I also don't know if roosterbuilt actually gets dalton to make a custom helix or if it's an off the shelf item. I'm almost at the point of just starting over with a new clutch kit.
Just put it back to stock then(1000km is nothing), It will work better then the setup you got. I guarantee.
tex78
Active VIP Member
Put the 15 t3 stuff in, that's what I'm doing with my 14
Not much can be had on a t3 setup, mabe a bit more backshift and down hill engine braking
Not much can be had on a t3 setup, mabe a bit more backshift and down hill engine braking
slededjr
Active VIP Member
Skidoo doesn't have a yellow spring. Roosterbilt kits usually came with a 350 finish rate, unless they changed that? 160/380 part# 417 222 703 is what you want. Put your gearing back also.
sc800
Active VIP Member
I rode several days last year on a T3 174 at Kuster's and I could not believe the down hill engine braking how good it was?! I have rode cat for years and this was one of the first things I noticed. I thought the clutching was pretty bang on.
slededjr
Active VIP Member
T3 runs a 160/350, 438 ramps, 40 helix and blue driven spring 157/214. All you'd really have to change would be the 441 ramps to the 438. XM non T3 ran a 42 helix with 441 ramps. 40 helix with 438 ramps is going to increase rpm due to 2 degree lower helix angle and 438 is a little bit steeper at tip. Start of 438 is lower then 441 allowing better engine braking.
tex78
Active VIP Member
Yes they really got it
stormtrooper
Active VIP Member
Go to 412 ramps, add 2 grams of weight over what was initially recommend. Go back to 160/350 primary spring. Problem solved. Did wonders for mine. Was super happy with kit after that.
- Thread starter
- #34
Leave the bigger top gear?
SaskSummit
Active VIP Member
I didn't read the whole thread. But I have a 14 163 I am 210 without gear. I had issues the first year I had it but last year I got it dialled and it works great. So here is what I am using in mine. I went back to the stock gearing with the 19t top. I am running about 18g pin weight and the springs that came with the kit. The game changer was the ramps. Go to a 412. Thing pulls like a fricking champ now. Buddy has a 15 t3 163 he weighs probably 40 lbs less then me and there were very few times when his sled performed better then mine in the very deep snow. Hope this helps.
SaskSummit
Active VIP Member
One other thing. PM Winter Brew on here he is the guy that builds these kits. He helped me with mine awesome guy.
Winter Brew
Active VIP Member
Rooster has been using the 412 the last 2 seasons, that should solve the rpm issue, assuming it is all in the clutching. All else can remain the same.
Most guys had no rpm issues with the 441's, but after some feedback similar to what you are seeing we made the switch to 412's for all but very low elevation. Stock gearing or a tooth taller for 154 or lighter riders has been working good.
Most guys had no rpm issues with the 441's, but after some feedback similar to what you are seeing we made the switch to 412's for all but very low elevation. Stock gearing or a tooth taller for 154 or lighter riders has been working good.
iceman5689
Active VIP Member
Just installed rooster kit, hope I don't have any issue dialling it in like this case
SaskSummit
Active VIP Member
Did you put the 412s in? That's what makes the kit.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
- Thread starter
- #40
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