Sled powered quads

[mustange70]

The air filters are done, and installed, i think i may make another angle piece on the center filter so its not so tight against the seat, and i may look at a smaller diameter filter, but for now everything is screwed down tight, i had to cut out the cross brace for clearence for the filters, there was just no way around it. The clutch cover has been modded for some extra length just have to weld it back together, I also got the plastics trimmed for clutch cover clearence, and i layed out the wiring for the relocation of the coils and module that i had to do.

here are the filters, ignore the white crap thats from trimming the plastics:







Last one is something i wanted to try out to see if it works, and so far so good, what it is, is its some 2.5" rad hose i mitred to form the 90* angle you see, then i glue them together, so we'll see if it holds up. So tomorrow its weld the clutch cover back together, install new mounts, hopefully make it so i don't have to take the pipes off to get to the clutches, the its make a couple brackets/mounts for the plastics as the trimming i did eliminated the old mounts, then install the pipes, do a fluid check, and finish the wiring. So really a lot of little things, but i should be able to get it running tomorrow as long as i have no hicups.

 

[DaveB]

Very neat project! I'd just stick the filter straight onto that right carb. I suspect it will run a bunch fatter (less air) than the other two with that long tube and 90* on there.

 

[mustange70]

yeah that's where I had it before, but it's a bad spot for dirt/mud and I've knocked it off with getting on and off it before, so I know this is a restrictive setup, but it's a starting point.

 

[mustange70]

so i got the electric done, brakes bled, clutch cover finished and installed, tightened everything down, installed the pipes hooked the carbs up, i checked for spark, basically got it ready to run, but my neighbors would've loved me if i had fired it up tonight lol. Anyway for tomorrow its tie down all the wires, do a final nut and bolt, confirm the coil wires from the module to the coils are in the right order, make sure theres fuel in it, double check the clearences on the drive belt and then confirm that i didn't miss anything on the jack shaft, and lastly had oil to the 4wd gearbox.



the clutch cover, turned out better than before, its a little more comfy and not so much in the way as i slimmed the profile a bit.



The relocated module and coils, they were under the seat before.

 

[mustange70]

Soo its running and back together . Everything clears and is running true. Heres a quick crappy cell phone vid:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5-kpUje0LI[/media]

The throttle response is good (stumbling in the video would indicate air flow issues, but we'll see what it does with a full load), starts good, 4wd works perfect (no binding).

Anyway, i've come across 3 problems when i was playing with it on the jack stands/loading it. The first one is a simple fix, is that the #60 main drive chain has a messed up link somewhere and catches/rides up the top sprockets and jams things up slightly, so i'll first swap out the master links (had to use a half link and a master link). The other is the gear box for the 4wd output has a small leak somewhere, so i gotta see where its coming from, but it could be from spillage when i put oil in it, but its an easy fix.

The second is this:



Basically thats way to much. What i did was after i loaded it i sinched it down as tight as i could as i felt the chain jumping when i was loading it, and I knew i'd have so issues with the chain loosing at full bump, but not this much. So I have two things i could do, the first would be to rig up a tensioner on the bottom of the swing arm (i would have to build a skid plate), or slide the shaft backwards to a point so that the chain is about to tighten when the susension compresses.

I'd personally go the tensioner route(fair bit of room to do this) as i'd hate to drill more holes and take everything apart, anyone have any thoughts? I wanna try to get this taken care of tomorrow/saturday as there a atv sled pull/mud bog on sunday and i would love to go try it out (i'd do a bunch of test runs at the farm on saturday).

 

[ponyboy]

hey mustang ... so the tranny did not hold up to the tripple.... was going to do the same thing till i read about this ... so i sold the 680 . now i have a 503 rotax , pipes , carbs , cdi , wiring , clutches.... all given to me . what do you think about lengthening the frame a few inches , for a better fit , and should i take a chance on the tranny.... reverse is a good thing.... also , do you run a battery for the winch..... thanks

 

[mustange70]

The tranny should hold up, my problem was the one bearing on the output shaft was bad and fell apart and the resulting lack of support on the output shaft caused the internal gears to run cockeyed to each other and they chewed themselves all to hell. I'd leave the frame as is and lengthen the swing arm personally, that way the plastics fit without much hassle. Yes i have a battery, did the sled you got the motor from run a battery?

 

[DaveB]

FYI: Dan at Extreme Machines in Sylvan ran a Scrambler with a 670 twin a while back...so he may have some input as well if you give him a buzz....

 

[mustange70]

yeah he's replied earlier in the thread, each sled motor is different and some of them are pretty frickin picky (like my triple). that said Im playing with the gearing right now, need to gear down just a tad bit more, it takes off on gravel but has a slight bog when traction is present, ie on Grass, the 9 and 28 tooth sprockets is what is in there now on the primary reduction, so I ordered a 30 and 32 tooth sprocket to try out on Monday, so I'll be playing this weekend to get the bugs worked out.

 

[ponyboy]

The tranny should hold up, my problem was the one bearing on the output shaft was bad and fell apart and the resulting lack of support on the output shaft caused the internal gears to run cockeyed to each other and they chewed themselves all to hell. I'd leave the frame as is and lengthen the swing arm personally, that way the plastics fit without much hassle. Yes i have a battery, did the sled you got the motor from run a battery?

no battery.... what are u using to keep it charged ... and where does the power to run the E fan on rad come from

 

[mustange70]

I'm running a bridge rectifier to convert the ac power from the sled motor to dc in order to run the fan, tach, electric hubs, etc. it's enough to give power to everything, but not enough to charge a battery, so if the battery get real low it's best to stick it on a charger.

 

[ponyboy]

I'm running a bridge rectifier to convert the ac power from the sled motor to dc in order to run the fan, tach, electric hubs, etc. it's enough to give power to everything, but not enough to charge a battery, so if the battery get real low it's best to stick it on a charger.

Hmmmm i just so happen to have a niehbor that could help me out in that department..... i will have more questions for you soon , if you dont mind
I need too make sure this 503 will run good 1st as it was last run 3 years ago . i pulled off the twin pipes and the pistons look good

 

[QuintinG]

Wow that is one amazing machine and huge task. Good job on this project. I'll be following this thread closely from now on.

 

[TROLLCAT]

WOW thats a labour of love
I have been tweeking my drag sled for over ten years now
nice job thats

 

[mustange70]

Thanks, yeah its a lot of work, when you change this much on a machine. Anyway after putting the quad to work at a local mud bog pulling cable and hauling my but around all day, the machine needs more gearing, then a little bit more rpm on the clutch engagement.

Yeah if have any questions ponyboy feel free, post up in this thread so everyone can see. And yes, make sure that motor is in good shape before you do any major work.

 

[mustange70]

bit of an update, the air filters are to restrictive, i will be making an airbox out of fiberglass to maximize the volume and run a flat foam style filter i think, the tensioner works great. I've repalced the drive clutch with a rebuilt unit as the old one was having issues. Anyway heres a quick tunning vid, i have some clutching to figure out at the moment:



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bDV1X732UQ[/media]