Ski Doo Pistons

Smurff1000

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I have 3700 miles (5760km) on my MXZ Renegade 1000SDI,
How long will me pistons last?
Should I change them out?
Should I go with oem or after market?
:confused:

What are your thoughts.

Thanks,
Smurff
 

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Washy

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I would definately think about it. It is probably the most expensive motor in Skidoo history next to a 4 stroke to rebuild. What year is it? I know I would atleast have the crank runout checked and a compression check.
 

Smurff1000

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I would definately think about it. It is probably the most expensive motor in Skidoo history next to a 4 stroke to rebuild. What year is it? I know I would atleast have the crank runout checked and a compression check.

My sled is a 2006, compression at 120 per hole.
not to sound not so smart but what is crank runout?

Thanks,
Smurff
 

glengine

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My sled is a 2006, compression at 120 per hole.
not to sound not so smart but what is crank runout?

Thanks,
Smurff

I would put a new set of pistons in it.. That compression is a little low and thats alot of miles.. You can buy aftermarket pistons cheaper but the oem ones work really well.. I checked the compression on a stock RT1000 motor this summer that probably had 1000miles on it and it had 150psi compression.. I have known several of them to be in that range, and none of them had and motor mods..
 

99summitx

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Sorry for hijack, hey Glengine, do you have any 670 pistons 20 thou over, SPI's are stuck in container somewhere in Ont. I can justify paying $170 a piston from skidoo.
 

Slamnek

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The RK-tek pistons are cheaper and in my opinion better than the stock doo pistons.
 

glengine

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The RK-tek pistons are cheaper and in my opinion better than the stock doo pistons.

I could wrong but i am pretty sure that rk tek doesn't have pistons for either the 670 or the 1000.. They do for the 800 and 600 but the two motors that were asked about in this thread were 1000, 670.. But yah for the 600, 800, 800r there is absolutely nothing wrong with Rk tek's pistons for them..
 

Slamnek

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Thanks glengine, did'nt know that. In that case i would go with BRP pistons.
 

glengine

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Sorry for hijack, hey Glengine, do you have any 670 pistons 20 thou over, SPI's are stuck in container somewhere in Ont. I can justify paying $170 a piston from skidoo.

I looked what we have in stock and we dont have any pistons in stock right now for a 670.. Sorry i couldn't help you out on that.. Can try and get some for yah though.
 

99summitx

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I looked what we have in stock and we dont have any pistons in stock right now for a 670.. Sorry i couldn't help you out on that.. Can try and get some for yah though.

Thanks Glengine, The SPI should be here this week I hope, just getting revved up and want to get it back together. Thanks again for lookin.
 

Smurff1000

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I would put a new set of pistons in it.. That compression is a little low and thats alot of miles.. You can buy aftermarket pistons cheaper but the oem ones work really well.. I checked the compression on a stock RT1000 motor this summer that probably had 1000miles on it and it had 150psi compression.. I have known several of them to be in that range, and none of them had and motor mods..

Thanks for the info, I will change out the pistons with oem ones.

Is it a simple change or,
should I have my pot checked for to much slap?
Can the walls were that much.
The reason I ask is, to be 30 psi out is alot.

Thanks,
Smurff
 

Modman

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Thanks for the info, I will change out the pistons with oem ones.

Is it a simple change or,
should I have my pot checked for to much slap?
Can the walls were that much.
The reason I ask is, to be 30 psi out is alot.

Thanks,
Smurff

So long as the compression is even across the cylinders, you can check it all, but it could just be that they are worn out. I'm not sure that the cylinders walls would have worn that much, but you can always have it checked. Have it honed, throw in a new set, have the run out checked as well. OEM (cast) are the way to go, they are a cast piston which is more dimensionally stable than the aftermarket forged pistons as they can cast in more material into the piston (meaning it expands and contracts less than forged) and will not need as much piston to cylinder wall clearance. Don't forget to the load the engine when breaking it in to seat the rings.
 

Nytroman

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Two RT's and both had crank failures at about 3000km last season, and caused the top end to get taken out too.
Would recommend a refurbished crank, good hone job and pistons
Just my personal experience, those bearings are just grease packed on the crank you know
 
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