Self Leveling Concrete, Large Pour.

skegpro

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Anyone know a contractor that would take on a 40' x 100' x 2" self leveling pour?

Or know a place that will deliver mixed truckloads of self leveling concrete in the Edmonton area?

Thanks
 

sledn

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Wish this Gypcrete had some strength .Don't think It's suitable/durable for normal use .Very common in apartments under flooring for fire stop. Place-Crete also installs it.
 

Cyle

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Wish this Gypcrete had some strength .Don't think It's suitable/durable for normal use .Very common in apartments under flooring for fire stop. Place-Crete also installs it.

It has zero strength. There is a different product, Lafarge calls it agilia that is self leveling too, and is suppose to be suitable as regular concrete. But IMO there is no way it has the same strength, not worth it.
 

skegpro

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Out of curiosity, why does it need to be self levelling? That's like a 8"+ slump lol!
I have a 40'x50' heated shop with some old concrete that needs a face lift.
About 500sqft of that shop the concrete is spaulding and I would like to try and salvage it as structurally it is still good.
To far gone to grind in my mind......

Secondly, I have a old 40' x 80' barn that I would like to convert to a man cave, but the first step is seeing if I can salvage the floor. It was a hog barn in the 90's and has 8ft deep pits on both side walls that I will fill with sand but then I need to pour a new slab over the entire thing. Floor is sloped from the center out. Will not be heavy traffic as there is only 9ft ceilings.

I figured a 2-4" pour of self leveler would be best, but I am no expert and am seeking some knowledge.

Ultimately would like to just do a traditional pour but have been told there is a minimum thickness.........
 
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plio7

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That’s agilia if expensive a/f you would be better off
Hiring a crew to place a 3-4” slab on top and get some decent reinforcing in it. I would recommend ess out of Edmonton/devon if your set on the self leveling idea bit there is no real cheap way to do that and if the slab below isn’t sound it will just pop anyways
 

skegpro

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That’s agilia if expensive a/f you would be better off
Hiring a crew to place a 3-4” slab on top and get some decent reinforcing in it. I would recommend ess out of Edmonton/devon if your set on the self leveling idea bit there is no real cheap way to do that and if the slab below isn’t sound it will just pop anyways
Thanks.

Any idea what the thinest traditional slab is you can pour?

Already have 6" in the barn and shop.
 

plio7

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Lots of residential in the past are 3-3 1/2” which would be fine. Put in a mat of 10m rebar and it would be fine. Especially on an existing. I believe you can go as low as a 2” slab but I wouldn’t risk it. And as I said if you do want to look at the self leveling route talk to Dan at ESS http://www.esscanada.ca/contactUs/
Great guys that know their stuff. I use them exclusively for resurfacing on my commercial projects
 

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For the shop why not just put on a polyspartic coating. Lots of contractors doing that, you can pick a cool colour/design and save the money for the floor in the barn?
 

skegpro

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For the shop why not just put on a polyspartic coating. Lots of contractors doing that, you can pick a cool colour/design and save the money for the floor in the barn?
Calcium and salt in the past 10 years has eaten 1/2 deep spaulding in the shop slab.

Expoxy and Polyspartic doesn't really stand up to farm machinery,forklifts and carbides.

But it looks great in my garage.
 

plio7

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Calcium and salt in the past 10 years has eaten 1/2 deep spaulding in the shop slab.

Expoxy and Polyspartic doesn't really stand up to farm machinery,forklifts and carbides.

But it looks great in my garage.

If its just Spaulding and not cracked/ heaving then a topping mix may work. But as I said before resurfacing can be more expansive than just pouring new in top or even replacing. If it’s a 6” slab that is only damaged 1/2” deep and your not planning on heavy use then grinding down may not be a bad option
 

skegpro

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If its just Spaulding and not cracked/ heaving then a topping mix may work. But as I said before resurfacing can be more expansive than just pouring new in top or even replacing. If it’s a 6” slab that is only damaged 1/2” deep and your not planning on heavy use then grinding down may not be a bad option
Yeah it's our main shop so it sees alot of heavy use, might be easiest to repour.

****ty part is it has infloor heat.
 

Cyle

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Thanks.

Any idea what the thinest traditional slab is you can pour?

Already have 6" in the barn and shop.

I would not pour anything less then 4" with 10mm rebar on 16" centers, that is the bare minimum to get decent strength for a slab like that (yea many go less, but go look at ones 5-10 years old and you'll see why you should do a bit more). If you are going on it with anything heavy in a shop setting, minimum 6" slab with 15mm rebar on 12" centers. If you are 100% sure the current pad is structurally ok you can top it, but no one is going to guarantee anything as it's purely cosmetic and will not provide any strength.
 

JustChilling19

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I’m far from an expert on this but recently saw a rubberized concrete replacement. It apparently is good to fix old worn out concrete and whatnot. Saw and felt the product and thought it was interesting. I’ll try forward more information tomorrow. May be a cheap and easy option for you to consider?
 

skegpro

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I’m far from an expert on this but recently saw a rubberized concrete replacement. It apparently is good to fix old worn out concrete and whatnot. Saw and felt the product and thought it was interesting. I’ll try forward more information tomorrow. May be a cheap and easy option for you to consider?
Cool thx
 

Chronic Cat

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Well fellas, I run a 38m pump and we are known to travel. Walls, footings, shop floors. Whatever you want. 2 38m pumps and 1 smaller 28. Located in Camrose
 
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