Rooster built or Dynamoe joe for t3?

mountainsledmania

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I want to clutch the t3 to make it more efficient, rooster built or DJ are the two im looking at. Anyone here riding one of these kits? I don't see a t3 specific kit from RB but I do from DJ, I also noticed the RB provides a top gear change and DJ does not. Any info would be helpful. Thanks in advance
 

tex78

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Dunno, they are 90% at least

Problem is, to get some more snap and back shift, can cause other issues that where fine before
 

giddyup

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Had RD got one for the 174. Last year he always said he was working on the T3 but I have not heard of any, stock is not bad. But I do miss the back shift from my previous sleds,
 

j335

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I want to clutch the t3 to make it more efficient, rooster built or DJ are the two im looking at. Anyone here riding one of these kits? I don't see a t3 specific kit from RB but I do from DJ, I also noticed the RB provides a top gear change and DJ does not. Any info would be helpful. Thanks in advance
Lots of topics comparing them, should be able to google it. Why not add Mad Motorsports to that list since they're out of Leduc?
 

mountainsledmania

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Yea I've been looking for info but no one can really say what lot is better. I tried mad motorsprt clutching last year. Went one trip and it was out of the sled. Want what I was looking for.
 

mur190

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the price you pay for these "kits" and what you can buy clutching springs, ramps and a adjustable helix for i would recommend playing around yourself, buy aaen's clutching handbook and order some parts.
 

mur190

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i ran a rooster kit in my freeride last year and it took additional tuning to dial in, ended up buying a diff primary spring and changing pin weight and gears before i got it where i wanted it.
just my $0.02
 

slededjr

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did the same thing with a couple DJ kits and others as well. Not every kit or sled will work the same. The biggest gain i've noticed with any of them was with the DJ NC-D2 helix. More back shift and engine braking. Other then that there's not a ton of difference. Not like the early years where you'd purchase a kit and notice 4 or sled lengths difference. Manufactures have these dialed in pretty good now. IMO
 

dooin800

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did the same thing with a couple DJ kits and others as well. Not every kit or sled will work the same. The biggest gain i've noticed with any of them was with the DJ NC-D2 helix. More back shift and engine braking. Other then that there's not a ton of difference. Not like the early years where you'd purchase a kit and notice 4 or sled lengths difference. Manufactures have these dialed in pretty good now. IMO
Agreed!! Takes a lot to see big gains. A lot of cash-a lot of time.
 

mountainsledmania

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thanks for the info guys. next question is what are u guys using in your t3s? im not even sure where to start it tuning clutches piece by piece.
 

pfi572

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First , adjust for recommended rpm and then put 4-500 Kms on machine so it's broke in.
Everything is tight and requires some time to loosen up.
Also if machine starts having any problems it's easy to not point to something owner has done.
Clean clutch's and set belt deflection during that time frame.
This will give you sometime to see if anything is needed for your riding style and weight.
Every machine is different as well as rider.
IMO
 

mountainsledmania

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First , adjust for recommended rpm and then put 4-500 Kms on machine so it's broke in.
Everything is tight and requires some time to loosen up.
Also if machine starts having any problems it's easy to not point to something owner has done.
Clean clutch's and set belt deflection during that time frame.
This will give you sometime to see if anything is needed for your riding style and weight.
Every machine is different as well as rider.
IMO

ya maybe ill ride it first I just got it was a demo has 380 k on it.never even rode it yet
 

dooin800

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Keep an eye on the primary spring. We have seen a couple of them sag out in one season of mountain riding. We keep one in the garage at home just in case.
 

tex78

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Keep an eye on the primary spring. We have seen a couple of them sag out in one season of mountain riding. We keep one in the garage at home just in case.
Yes they do, I'm going to replace my stock one and see how much it comes back

Have 5000 km on it so it has to have hot weaker
 

dooin800

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Here is a great tool to have if your worried about clutching. You would be surprised at how soon the springs start to sag.

image.jpg
 

lilduke

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Might as well change the secondary spring while ur at it. Only 35$.
 

tex78

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What is it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Spring psi tester, u compress the spring to a certain height and the psi it took to do it is the compressed rate

So say u have a 160-320 spring

160 is the start and 320 is the Finnish

So say it takes only 280 to squish the spring, then it's sagged 40 psi pressure persay
 

Caper11

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Spring psi tester, u compress the spring to a certain height and the psi it took to do it is the compressed rate

So say u have a 160-320 spring

160 is the start and 320 is the Finnish

So say it takes only 280 to squish the spring, then it's sagged 40 psi pressure persay

Where did you get that spring tester?? Is it expensive? I have a box of springs and would love to know how many are sacked out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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