Reviews on XM aftermarket clutching vs stock.

mountainsledmania

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if anyone is looking i have a complete rooster built kit (set up for tree riding/boondocking) for a 2014 154 for a rider between 180-200lbs, approx 800 kms on it, comes with
helix, both springs, ramps(pinned), adjustable pin weight kit and all paperwork. shoot me a pm. my clutching is changing due to the 156 3" track.
What are you using for you 3 in. I'm looking for ideas on my 163 t3


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mur190

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define looking for ideas? what does it not do that you want it to do? Where do you find it is lacking?
I am going to little stiffer then stock primary and some shallower ramps and stock helix.

What are you using for you 3 in. I'm looking for ideas on my 163 t3


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giddyup

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im fairly happy with the t3 174 but i do miss the back shift, was running joe's mountian kit with ramps in my 163 and liked it, i dont see much from anyone for the 174
 

mur190

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im fairly happy with the t3 174 but i do miss the back shift, was running joe's mountian kit with ramps in my 163 and liked it, i dont see much from anyone for the 174


Joes mountain ramps are very similar to the T3 stock 438's, dj's should provide better backshift with minor tweaking.
 

Sask Sledder

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I too wasn't blown away with my rooster built clutching. Installed as they suggested(geared up). 2013, 154 x package. Nothing exotic. Im far from experienced with clutch tuning so I didn't mess with it. Ran around on clicker 4 most of the time, tried 5,6. felt like it RPMd better(7800 apposed to 7400 on clicker 4).
Argh.. i hate reading stuff like this.

Dude its not the kit...you just have too much weight. Im frustrated because lots of guys slap kits in without basic clutch knowledge and then when it doesnt perform as expected they dont ask the supplier for advice, they just tell the forum and the creator of the kit is to blame.

Not saying this post does that but almost.

Every engine is slightly different. Weight is everything. Every kit is meant for you to tune to the personality of your engine using the weights.

Adjust weight so you get 7900 at clicker 3 at a given elevation. Then use the clickers to adjust in the field for snow conditions and/or elevation changes during the day.

The higher clickers are meant to achieve quicker rpm "increase"...not to tune your max rpm. But in exchange it pulls softer.

Lower clicker gives you slower rpm increase, but pulls harder.

A really common mistake is for lowlanders to run stock clutching on clicker 1 so as not to overrev. They are just lugging the engine and are not taking advantage of whats there

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Caper11

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Argh.. i hate reading stuff like this.

Dude its not the kit...you just have too much weight. Im frustrated because lots of guys slap kits in without basic clutch knowledge and then when it doesnt perform as expected they dont ask the supplier for advice, they just tell the forum and the creator of the kit is to blame.

Not saying this post does that but almost.

Every engine is slightly different. Weight is everything. Every kit is meant for you to tune to the personality of your engine using the weights.

Adjust weight so you get 7900 at clicker 3 at a given elevation. Then use the clickers to adjust in the field for snow conditions and/or elevation changes during the day.

The higher clickers are meant to achieve quicker rpm "increase"...not to tune your max rpm. But in exchange it pulls softer.

Lower clicker gives you slower rpm increase, but pulls harder.

A really common mistake is for lowlanders to run stock clutching on clicker 1 so as not to overrev. They are just lugging the engine and are not taking advantage of whats there

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I agree. The kit works just fine, and works even better when the 441 ramps are not used.


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iceman5689

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So first weekend riding with the rooster kit, impressed with its pull and slight backshift. Left stock 440 ramps and all is working properly. Clickers left at 3 all day pulling 7700-7900.
 

birdie

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I am running a 2015 T3 174 Very happy after DJ Kit
I put in the DJ Kit and found it worked better
More back shift and harder pull at wide open
Bottom end was about the same

Joe says use the stock ramps and so i did as his ramps for the T3 donot improve the T3 clutching like earlier sleds

You know in the end the T3 is a very well set up sled from the factory, its not like the 2011-14 sleds where significant gains were left on the table
DJ's kit is affordable and he is super awesome to chat with on the phone on email

I call him The Clutch Doctor

birdie:cool:
 

Shredder

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I am running a 2015 T3 174 Very happy after DJ Kit
I put in the DJ Kit and found it worked better
More back shift and harder pull at wide open
Bottom end was about the same

Joe says use the stock ramps and so i did as his ramps for the T3 donot improve the T3 clutching like earlier sleds

You know in the end the T3 is a very well set up sled from the factory, its not like the 2011-14 sleds where significant gains were left on the table
DJ's kit is affordable and he is super awesome to chat with on the phone on email

I call him The Clutch Doctor


birdie:cool:

DJ even made my RT 1000 work great........enough said.:beer:
 

mur190

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if anyone wants I have a rooster kit for a 14 xm 154, pm me a offer, changed my set up totally to run my 3". approx. 800KMS on it, no adjustable pin weight kit.
 

iceman5689

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Installed my kit on my XM154” with stock 441 ramps. I was worried after reading some forums here and startingmy sled up after installing and only getting 5500-6200 RPM just aboveelevation. Took it to the mountains with slight hesitation that I’d be wrenching all weekend to dial it in. Not the case left clickers at 3 and pulled7800-8000 all weekend long. Did notice it pulling slightly harder and about thesame to improved back shifting. Hats off to your product and support. Iwill definitely install you’re kit on my next XM.
 

Blownsilver

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Has anyone here tried changing the primary to a Polaris P85 and team tied secondary. Seen it on the hill and a claimed 7mph advantage while climbing... At $2200 for the parts the guy told me, dang that seems steep but if it works
 
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