Rev Rebuild Parts

[Shibby!]

Where do you guys get them? Be that local or ordered in?

I'll be digging into my 06 REV 800 and doing a piston swap for sure. Just curious where to get the pistons, rings, bearings, seals, and any other parts I may stumble on requiring replacement.

Would like to know before digging in. It's that time of year =)

KM are approx 3500 km's.

 

[Shibby!]

Nobody knows?

Telling me nobody rebuilds their motors or they pay others to do it?

I'll price out parts locally, but from experience know they likely can't hold a candle to price I can get elsewhere. This is another debate I'm not willing to get into, but I can't afford to pay local companies stupid amounts of money when I can get it for cheaper.

Reading over dootalk I see a lot of people recommending cranks as well. I know 500$ now can save a lot later, but what are the chances of these bearings/crank failing? I pressure tested the engine late last year and it was within tollerances for leakage. Still debating if I want to spend 800-1000$ on a rebuild, or just keep it top end for this year.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

I'm interested in answers to this question as well - I have an o7 Rev with a crap load of miles on it as well.

 

[Slamnek]

I would look into RK tek pistons from mountain magic, there cheaper than stock pistons, dual rings, and better quality. Lots of people on here run wiesco, i personally would not run them. Again just my opinion. As for cranks, Doo cranks are pretty good unless you have blown a lot of belts. Talk to mountain magic, they will steer you in the right direction.

 

[Modman]

Nobody knows?

Telling me nobody rebuilds their motors or they pay others to do it?

I'll price out parts locally, but from experience know they likely can't hold a candle to price I can get elsewhere. This is another debate I'm not willing to get into, but I can't afford to pay local companies stupid amounts of money when I can get it for cheaper.

Reading over dootalk I see a lot of people recommending cranks as well. I know 500$ now can save a lot later, but what are the chances of these bearings/crank failing? I pressure tested the engine late last year and it was within tollerances for leakage. Still debating if I want to spend 800-1000$ on a rebuild, or just keep it top end for this year.

Are you looking at cast or forged? OEM and SPX are cast, if you want forged get some Wiseco's, make sure you warm them up reallllllllly well if you go to wiseco's, always well warmed up in the morning and after lunch/long breaks and you won't have issues, don't warm them up and you'll have a bomb on your hands. SPX pistons have been working really good for us, local prices are fine mostly, I know you can order them elsewhere and save $30, might consider a local supplier though. RKTek has nice double ringers too, little more $$$ though.

Do the crank now IMO, it probably doesn't need it but will save the price of a gasket set at a bare minimum next summer and if something does go wrong then it will save some down time later, right in the middle of the season usually. If you are doing preventative maintenance then do it all at once IMO, it'll cost you less in the long run no matter what.

 

[Shibby!]

Any word on MCB dual/single ring pistons?

MCB Performance SkiDoo REV800 Ski Doo REV 800 Snowmobile Performance Parts

Thanks for the info guys. I'd love to do the crank just for preventative maintenance, but I donno if it's in the books right now. I've recently become house poor.

I'm still getting decent compression. 150-155 last time I checked, however I had a little issue last year and kinda scared to crack open the engine. I heard a metalic rattle going over a slow section of trail with larger "whoops". It eventually ended, but ran strange after that. Hoping for something simple, but fear piston skirt, red vavle, ???.

Seemed to lack power, response, and poor idle. =(

My hope is that the response/power was a plugged filter, and the rattle was simply a bolt bounced up from the horrific bellows of the Summit underbelly (I drop stuff down there and never seem to get it out)

 

[tex78]

any word on mcb dual/single ring pistons?

mcb performance skidoo rev800 ski doo rev 800 snowmobile performance parts

thanks for the info guys. I'd love to do the crank just for preventative maintenance, but i donno if it's in the books right now. I've recently become house poor.

I'm still getting decent compression. 150-155 last time i checked, however i had a little issue last year and kinda scared to crack open the engine. I heard a metalic rattle going over a slow section of trail with larger "whoops". It eventually ended, but ran strange after that. Hoping for something simple, but fear piston skirt, red vavle, ???.

Seemed to lack power, response, and poor idle. =(

my hope is that the response/power was a plugged filter, and the rattle was simply a bolt bounced up from the horrific bellows of the summit underbelly (i drop stuff down there and never seem to get it out)

i put them into my 800r when i installed it into my 04 chassis... Very good stuff and very good price too..... I'd go with the mcb over the rkt ones just from what i have seen in dootalk...

 

[Kiwionsnow]

I did SPI pistons. they made it one ride (actully 3/4's of a ride, towed back to the truck). I went with RK tek Pistons and head with 14:1 inserts. I can feel the mid range is stronger.
If you are not doing the crank pull the primary clutch (complete) and remove youe PTO seal and cover. Check Grease condition and level. You can add grease ( ISO grease) and change the seal from the outside if required. This will go a long way to getting the crank out another season. While you are picking up a new crank seal get the 4 screws for the seal reatiner plate as well. they are not likley to come out in reusable condition.

 

[HiLlClImB911]

i rebuilt top end last season and went with rktek drop in with reflash got nothing but good to say about how the sled runs now, the way ill diff go again when it comes to that time again, plus great tek support is always a plus.

 

[Showtime]

Bringing this thread to the top again as it looks like i'm in the same boat. I have 2300 miles and never opened her up, runs like the day i bought it but i keep reading horror stories so i better do something before my luck runs out. I was leaning towards the RK Tek product as it sounds like you all had some good luck with them.

Shibby did you buy those MCB pistons, curious on your thoughts of them. I want to try and save a buck as next year hopefully will be a new E-tec for me but i won't sell this girl......just can't do it.

 

[99summitx]

Bringing this thread to the top again as it looks like i'm in the same boat. I have 2300 miles and never opened her up, runs like the day i bought it but i keep reading horror stories so i better do something before my luck runs out. I was leaning towards the RK Tek product as it sounds like you all had some good luck with them.

Shibby did you buy those MCB pistons, curious on your thoughts of them. I want to try and save a buck as next year hopefully will be a new E-tec for me but i won't sell this girl......just can't do it.

We did a 07 Rev last year with a kit that included everything from MCB plus we needed a monoblock, they were great to deal with, sent USPS with a stated value of $100 so tax was low and no duty, credited the core charge back to the credit card within a week of shipping the old block back. 3 rides later the crank went but top end is still good.

 

[Showtime]

We did a 07 Rev last year with a kit that included everything from MCB plus we needed a monoblock, they were great to deal with, sent USPS with a stated value of $100 so tax was low and no duty, credited the core charge back to the credit card within a week of shipping the old block back. 3 rides later the crank went but top end is still good.

This is what i am afraid of, my mechanic wants to do the bottom end but i'm trying to cheap out to buy my XP next year. If you don't mind me askin' how much for the top end kit.

 

[Shibby!]

This is what i am afraid of, my mechanic wants to do the bottom end but i'm trying to cheap out to buy my XP next year. If you don't mind me askin' how much for the top end kit.

No I haven't. Still doing tests on my sled. Been busy building my fence. I have another post showing my inquiry into it's problems. I'm fairly sure that the metalic noise I heard was the cord on my belt slapping the belt guard. This sled has been REALLY good with belts, but this last belt (forget number) is still in good shape but the little side groove belt came out. Maybe 3/4 of it ripped out and no doubt was slapping around till it broke off. That's probably my engine noise, the problem being is the poor running aftewards? Looking into that. I'm thinking the problem is likely something simple.

As for parts, I came across this site. Looks to have good prices and ship USPS for most items. USPS will never have duties, but you can sometimes get nailed taxes. Only OEM stuff though.

Cycle Parts Nation (Dealer Cost) | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Honda Engines OEM Parts | Honda Marine OEM Parts | Honda Power Equipment OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Part

As for pistons? If I replace mine I'm thinking of going with the MCB ones. Their kit (includes all gaskets to do the top end, which includes two o-rings/piston, and the basegasket) is $300.00 USD. Not too bad of a deal. Only problem is I don't know how BRP does the base gasket and squish adjustment. Might want to order different thickness gaskets if you can (they are generally pretty cheap). Sometimes manufactures are way off and some power can be gained from this. As for honing? If it's nicklesil (sp?) it's generally advised not to hone. The rings are designed to break in themselves. I hear of lots of people doing it though...

As for your sled, it seems you get mixed answers on rebuild times. Keep in mind our trails aren't that short into our riding areas so some of our milleage isn't so hard. Also depends how you ride and what kind of luck you have. If you have good compression and your engine pressure tests 'ok', you might be able to run it longer without touching it. The only thing you won't know is the grease in the bearings on the crank, but doing a top end won't fix that. Only way you can tell is split the cases, and if you do that you might as well put new bearings in. If you are doing new bearings you might as well do new crank... you get the idea? I believe you can get a remanufactured crank/bearings/seals for $500 USD + shipping. I assume there is a core charge here too.

I'm thinking if I can trouble shoot the running issue I might just run my sled another year and maybe pressure test it once or twice this year depending how many times I get out. I'll no doubt have a slow year this year with having a dog now.

I have no doubt a lot of sledders have self created issues. Both engine problems and extra expenses because of incorrect data.

1) 2-strokes lose compression from worn pistons and rings. You'll notice loss of compression. (Compression tested can vary a lot though) but loss in power, poor low end power, and no reverse are good clues. Pressure testing will verify this.
2) Crank seal issues. Pressure testing can determine if it's a problem on your engine.
3) Bearing grease. Bearings lose grease, wear out/overheat causing leaks. Leaks = run lean. The engine can't meter this unmeasured air and you lack fuel. Detonation/ping/wrecked piston/head, possibly crank/bottom end.

06 800 P-tek Issue. Please Help - DOOTalk Forums

 

[Shibby!]

Ohhh..

Just noticed you have a 04... You have to be cautious with the rings on your pistons...

If you want cheap you could potentially just change the rings, or do the top end. Then again you will lose compression again if there are issues. I think some 04's were ok?

 

[Showtime]

Ohhh..

Just noticed you have a 04... You have to be cautious with the rings on your pistons...

If you want cheap you could potentially just change the rings, or do the top end. Then again you will lose compression again if there are issues. I think some 04's were ok?

I'm thinking ,mine was okay as i have 2300 miles, it would've gone already if it was an issue. Buddy is going to come over this week and take my topend off, he said if it's past the 6thou mark we will need to do jugs as well. Then i just as well go big bore......i see a pattern here, it never ends, where do you stop.

 

[Shibby!]

I'm thinking ,mine was okay as i have 2300 miles, it would've gone already if it was an issue. Buddy is going to come over this week and take my topend off, he said if it's past the 6thou mark we will need to do jugs as well. Then i just as well go big bore......i see a pattern here, it never ends, where do you stop.

Let us know what you find. Sounds like it might get expensive real quick. You can likely get away with less than ideal if you are just wanting one more year and then a back-up sled. I wouldn't sink thousands into it and not have any returns in the future.

That 300$ I was mentioned was just pistons/rings/gaskets. It wasn't the big bore kit obviously.

 

[barthasbite]

If you're going to keep it I would do the crank.
I did a BRP top end on my 06 REV last year with 2800 km on it. 200km later the mag side bearing exploded. Needless to say, I had to do the crank and another top end the same month.
However, I know some guys with 5000Km plus on a crank and they're still going strong.........

 

[Slamnek]

That would be me. I hope i don't jinx it this year.

 

[Showtime]

Well i don't want to hijack Shibby's thread but i took the top-end off mine this past week-end and it's not good. The rings were flaking bad and i have a ton of play in the piston, a 11 thou to be exact and apparently Ski-doo's allowable tolerance is 6 thou So after endless phone calls & emails to the states it looks like i'm going to splurge for a short block from Martin I contemplated the big bore side of things but decided it would be more headache and money by the time i'm done with a crank that still has 2300 miles on it. I'm going to build it back to stock ride for the year and get a new E-tec next year when all the bugs are worked out:d. I'll post some pics tommorrow if i remember.

 

[Slamnek]

Why a whole new short block? A crank is $700 minus your crank return $200 and pistons are $600 (BRP) $500 (RKT) and if you take your motor out and take it to mountain magic, its like $300 to get your old crank out and the new one in. So somewhere in the area of $1300-1400 and your done or $2200 for a short block. That is unless i am out to lunch on a short block price. What kind of exchange do they give you for your old motor?