Rev drop and roll

MKK

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Just wondering if you need 7 or 8 tooth 3" pitch drivers to fit a 3" track in a 04 rev with drop and roll.

Thanks
Mark
 

MKK

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Its a specialty sleds drop and roll.Shaft is in the tunnel.
 

KORE

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I would check the clearance from the rail tips to your shaft and compare that to the radius of your drivers. Also compare you diameter of drivers to the 9 tooth stocker, they were too big contacting the rail tips. So keep in mind the radius and diameters of the new compared to the old. 9 t 2.52 don't work and 8 t 2.52 did. 3" pith will differ bu you can do the math! The drop and roll give plenty of room for the 3" paddle! Hope it helps i know it's not 3" pitch!
 

glengine

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I think that it should. Just double check how much clearance you have now. This is because the 8 tooth 3.0pitch drivers are 2% difference in size than 9 tooth 2.52 drivers. And i know that you can put a coma extreme 2.5" lug track on a rev that doesn;t have a drop and roll by just installing the 8 tooth 3.0 pitch drivers, so with the d&r you should be easily ably to fit the 3" track in there with the 8 tooth 3.0pitch drivers.
 

jasonrev

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depends on how much of a drop and roll it is.

Does'nt really matter how much drop and roll you have once your jackshaft is through the tunnel. At that point your basically worried about the following dimensions: chaincase center to center, driver diameter and track lug height. With those dimensions you can figure out what how much clearence you have. I am currently doing my own drop and roll right now. A little bit(okay a lot) of measuring can save you a bit of cash. My drop and roll is going to be 1.5"down and 1.5" back. I am still going to run 7 tooth avids with a 2.5" so I can gear myself down for the deeper lugged and longer track. The unfortunate thing about the rev chaincase is you can't run anything bigger than a 47 in the bottom. Being that I already head a 19 on top I decided to gear down with my drivers.
 

jasonrev

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I think that it should. Just double check how much clearance you have now. This is because the 8 tooth 3.0pitch drivers are 2% difference in size than 9 tooth 2.52 drivers. And i know that you can put a coma extreme 2.5" lug track on a rev that doesn;t have a drop and roll by just installing the 8 tooth 3.0 pitch drivers, so with the d&r you should be easily ably to fit the 3" track in there with the 8 tooth 3.0pitch drivers.

I could be wrong but I don't believe that a 2.5 camo extreme will work on a rev with 8 tooth driver. From everything I have heard it will only work with 7s and after a few calculations I think that 7s are the only way to go without a drop and roll. Here is my reasoning, in 06 when doo started putting 2.3 lug tracks on the rev they had to go to 9 tooth drivers because with 10s it would not fit. Using the formula pitch x teeth/3.14 I figured out that the diameter of 10 tooth drivers is 8.025" I divided that by 2 and added 2.3" and I got 6.312" we know those dimensions won't fit in a rev. I did the same calcutations with 8 tooth drivers and a 2.5 track and I come up with 6.321" that is even a larger combination than the 10 tooth 2.3 track combo which we already know does'nt fit. So with those numbers I believe 8 tooths wont work without a drop and roll.
 

glengine

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I could be wrong but I don't believe that a 2.5 camo extreme will work on a rev with 8 tooth driver. From everything I have heard it will only work with 7s and after a few calculations I think that 7s are the only way to go without a drop and roll. Here is my reasoning, in 06 when doo started putting 2.3 lug tracks on the rev they had to go to 9 tooth drivers because with 10s it would not fit. Using the formula pitch x teeth/3.14 I figured out that the diameter of 10 tooth drivers is 8.025" I divided that by 2 and added 2.3" and I got 6.312" we know those dimensions won't fit in a rev. I did the same calcutations with 8 tooth drivers and a 2.5 track and I come up with 6.321" that is even a larger combination than the 10 tooth 2.3 track combo which we already know does'nt fit. So with those numbers I believe 8 tooths wont work without a drop and roll.

Well i can say from personal experience that you can install a camo extreme 2.5" track on a rev with using 8 tooth 3.00 pitch drivers without a drop and roll as i have personally installed lots of them and never had any issues.
 
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KORE

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Yeah glen is right. I've done a few d&r now and the 8 t 2.52 driver and a 2.373 challenger track leaves me 3/4 of an inch clearance. I'll double check my sled tonite tho.
 

jasonrev

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Well i can say from personal experience that you can install a camo extreme 2.5" track on a rev with using 8 tooth 3.00 pitch drivers without a drop and roll as i have personally installed lots of them and never had any issues.

Good to know that it works. I can't imagine there is much room for snow evacuation. So if a 8 tooth driver(7.64" dia.) works with a 2.5 track, I wonder why people are not trying to stuff a 3" in with a 7 tooth driver(6.69" dia). It seems like a lot of time and money with the drop and roll to get a little bit of aproach angle and clearnece. I wish this would have been more common knowledge. I probably would'nt have done the d and r on my sled then.
 

glengine

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There are quite a few guys now doing that with the 7 tooth drivers now. Alot of XP's are running 3" tracks now. Atleast alot of the guys from AB anyways.
 

jasonrev

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Ya I knew there were a few guys trying it on the xp's with some success but I had'nt heard of anyone doing it on the rev's yet. The xp's do have more clearence . Are you gonna be coming out this way to ride at all this year. It would probably be a good opportunity to show people in our area how stuff out of your shop works.
 

glengine

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Ya I knew there were a few guys trying it on the xp's with some success but I had'nt heard of anyone doing it on the rev's yet. The xp's do have more clearence . Are you gonna be coming out this way to ride at all this year. It would probably be a good opportunity to show people in our area how stuff out of your shop works.

I would love to go out that way for a ride, but the shop is usually so busy in the winter that it's tough to fit the time in just get out for a ride locally. I work 7days a week minimum 10hrs a day from nov to may.
 

LBZ

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Good info in here. I've got plans to go from a 144" to a 2.5" x 156" Powder Extreme on my '04 Rev. My original plan was to a full D&R but now I think I'm just going to do a drop and slide the skid back, and run Avid 7 tooth 3.00" pitch drivers.

IMO the more clearance to clean snow out the better.
 

jasonrev

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Good info in here. I've got plans to go from a 144" to a 2.5" x 156" Powder Extreme on my '04 Rev. My original plan was to a full D&R but now I think I'm just going to do a drop and slide the skid back, and run Avid 7 tooth 3.00" pitch drivers.

IMO the more clearance to clean snow out the better.

Be carefull moving your skid back. Anytime I have done than my sled rode like crap and was sprung pretty stiff. You would probably be best buying a set of rails or extensions. You would have to move your 144 skid a long ways back to take up the slack. I agree with your call on the 7 tooth drivers. Each to there own on what driver to run, I personally would'nt be comfortable running that tight of clearence with the 8s.
 
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LBZ

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I already have an extension kit to make it a 151" skid so basically I'm just taking a 151" and sliding it back to take up the slack of the 156" track.

I also already have a set of drop brackets for the rear which are a copy of ones that another guy I know in Washington has already put on a few sleds. Tricky part will be the measuring to relocate the front holes but looking at his, it's about a 1.5" drop and 1.5" back. I think the best way to do this is to use the rear drop plates and mark the holes on the tunnel at the front so it gets dropped and moved back the same amount. This way, the suspension geometry should still be somewhat close to stock-just lower and farther back.

I think I would use an 8 tooth if I was doing a roll of the chaincase as well, which would give the track a bit better attack angle and less rolling resistance around the drivers, but I want to see how just the drop works this winter first. Most guys I talk to say it will be fine.
 

tukernater

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I already have an extension kit to make it a 151" skid so basically I'm just taking a 151" and sliding it back to take up the slack of the 156" track.

I also already have a set of drop brackets for the rear which are a copy of ones that another guy I know in Washington has already put on a few sleds. Tricky part will be the measuring to relocate the front holes but looking at his, it's about a 1.5" drop and 1.5" back. I think the best way to do this is to use the rear drop plates and mark the holes on the tunnel at the front so it gets dropped and moved back the same amount. This way, the suspension geometry should still be somewhat close to stock-just lower and farther back.

I think I would use an 8 tooth if I was doing a roll of the chaincase as well, which would give the track a bit better attack angle and less rolling resistance around the drivers, but I want to see how just the drop works this winter first. Most guys I talk to say it will be fine.
what belt are you running now?
 
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