Replacing broken front diff sprague

[Rockwerx]

I started to tear into my 06 Sportsman 500 today to determine what was clicking in the front end. The bearings and cv shafts are okay which leads me to believe that the plastic sprague sleeve in the front diff has failed. Any advice on how to remove the drive shaft roll pin and also to remove the front shafts from the diff would be a great help. I am thinking I have to get even more mad at it to get it apart!

 

[Rockwerx]

I made some progress today. Fashioned up a redneck slide hammer by attaching a tie down strap onto the end of the cv shaft and tieing a 4 lb hammer to the other end. I few dozen swings and they both finally came out.

I used a 2 foot long punch amd the 4 lb hammer to start the roll pin moving. Once I got it to move it came out easily with a small punch.

I removed the electric fan to gain enough room to wiggle the diff out. Once I got it out I was pleasantly surprised that all the components were in perfect working order. Bt the sounds it was making I was certain that the sprague had failed.

The u-joints in the front shaft are dry of grease and just starting to fail so this may have been what was making the clicking noises. So far I have only got one of them apart. If I had access to a hydraulic press it would be a lot easier!

 

[Rockwerx]

Where in Edmonton would be a good place to try and get ujoints for my drive shaft rather than using OEM Polaris parts? Also, does anyone know if there may be ujoints for my drive shaft that have grease zerks? They are pretty small ujoints so there may not be enough room for a zerk on the cross...but adding a zerk to an end cap might work.

 

[Rockwerx]

I found some greaseable u-joints today. Quaility Gear 5-170USQG

Fingers crossed that one can grease them after the driveshaft is in place. Hope they go in nice and easy!

 

[Rockwerx]

U-joints went in easilly. I coated the inside of the yokes with CopperCoat antisieze compound which may help in removing the cups in future. I will be coating many of the other parts as I continue assembling everything.

It will be a pain to grease the rear u-joint as it is behind the side of the foot well. Might have to make a strategic port in it.

Polaris wanted 120 bucks plus tax for 2 ungreaseable u-joints. These cost under 29 bucks with tax for both. I am sure I could have found them for even cheaper if I had shopped around. There is a Spicer application that I believe will also fit.

 

[imdoo'n]

it does pay to look elsewhere, you can always buy at the dealer if you can't find the right bearing or seal.

 

[Rockwerx]

it does pay to look elsewhere, you can always buy at the dealer if you can't find the right bearing or seal.

You bet! A bearing, seal or u-joint may fit thousands of applications. I have only found the odd one that one can not get except for at the dealerships. These u-joints are very common I found out today. They are used on lots of different steering shafts.

I forgot to mention that the front diff takes 150ml of Demand Drive Fluid. The AWD locker will not opperate correctly with regular gear oils from what I have read.

 

[Rockwerx]

Ran 3 tanks of fuel through the quad and everything worked like new again...no more clicking. The front shaft u-joints should last a lot longer now that it can be greased. Easy mod when they start to wear out for you guys.

 

[rmk H.O.]

hey I just got a 2005 /05 Polaris sportsman 500 ho it has the 2005 front diff in it and when I got it it was neglected but everything worked I was checking the fluids and the front diff had water in the oil and was rusty a bit so I tore it down cleaned everything spotless new bearings new seals put it all back together and put back in quad at the time I didn't have the proper Polaris recommend oil so I put full synthetic 75w90 gear oil in I went for a ride and was playing in some mud well naturally I got stuck in 2wd so I turned 4x4 on and the light came on in the dash and I tried to go again and nothing no 4x4 so I got frustrated and started giving it lots of throttle and then out of the blue the front end locked up so I let off in fear of damage and again tried to go and no 4x4 so after winching out went home dropped oil and put in Polaris front angle drive oil as recommended and thought maybe the oil is to thick for the armature plate to stick tried it again and had the same results no 4x4 until the back tires were spinning at a pretty decent speed then it engages hard any thougts or ideas would be very helpful at this point thanks (btw I used to work on them so I know I rebuilt right and everything is in the right place )

 

[tex78]

Did u put in a new electro coupler ??

Don't get the plastic one, buy the bullet aluminum one

Even with the wrong oil still should lock up

 

[rmk H.O.]

Ive heard to not get the aluminum one cuz they bend and or warp under load and what do you mean the electro coupler never heard of it before

 

[tex78]

It's what locks up, with if I recall 6 ears

Stock is plastic..

Any thing more than stock tires ect it sheers off

 

[rmk H.O.]

But would the stock plastic one be causeing it for the long delay and excessive rear wheel spin before it locks up ?