Ram 2500 Trans

seen46

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I currently own both a 07 5.9/48re and a 2012 6.7/68rfe. for towing and daily driving there's no comparison. the 68RFE is so much better than the 48re for that. the 48 is better in that it has so much more aftermarket support. and they can be built to handle 1000+hp reliably were the 68 cant. 4 gears also work better when drag racing.

800+hp, sled pulling, drag racing = 47/48re
everything else = 68rfe

if you want to do the swap, from what i can remember you'll need:
-5.9 engine plate
-5.9
transfer case input shaft
-crossmember mount
-shift cable and
linkage
-
ECM has to be flashed as a manual transmission file
-
Standalone Controller for trans
-
standalone vb
-if you have a electronic T case 4 low wont work anymore

and things like the
Reverse light, gear indicator on dash, trans temp in the evic and tow haul mode, will no longer work. not to mention the lower resale value.

 

Chronic Cat

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I currently own both a 07 5.9/48re and a 2012 6.7/68rfe. for towing and daily driving there's no comparison. the 68RFE is so much better than the 48re for that. the 48 is better in that it has so much more aftermarket support. and they can be built to handle 1000+hp reliably were the 68 cant. 4 gears also work better when drag racing.

800+hp, sled pulling, drag racing = 47/48re
everything else = 68rfe

if you want to do the swap, from what i can remember you'll need:
-5.9 engine plate
-5.9
transfer case input shaft
-crossmember mount
-shift cable and
linkage
-
ECM has to be flashed as a manual transmission file
-
Standalone Controller for trans
-
standalone vb
-if you have a electronic T case 4 low wont work anymore

and things like the
Reverse light, gear indicator on dash, trans temp in the evic and tow haul mode, will no longer work. not to mention the lower resale value.




Thanks for for the input. I can't see any reason as to why I'd swap things out to go back in time here. I'm not sled pulling or drag racing my 1ton. I have a drag car I pull with my truck and a holiday trailer but that's it. The cost to do all those things and buy the extras just isn't worth it. Not to mention the resale value!
 

pipes

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I currently own both a 07 5.9/48re and a 2012 6.7/68rfe. for towing and daily driving there's no comparison. the 68RFE is so much better than the 48re for that. the 48 is better in that it has so much more aftermarket support. and they can be built to handle 1000+hp reliably were the 68 cant. 4 gears also work better when drag racing.

800+hp, sled pulling, drag racing = 47/48re
everything else = 68rfe

now if you were to slap a 13 speed Roadranger in it you would have something.

if you want to do the swap, from what i can remember you'll need:
-5.9 engine plate
-5.9
transfer case input shaft
-crossmember mount
-shift cable and
linkage
-
ECM has to be flashed as a manual transmission file
-
Standalone Controller for trans
-
standalone vb
-if you have a electronic T case 4 low wont work anymore

and things like the
Reverse light, gear indicator on dash, trans temp in the evic and tow haul mode, will no longer work. not to mention the lower resale value.




Thanks for for the input. I can't see any reason as to why I'd swap things out to go back in time here. I'm not sled pulling or drag racing my 1ton. I have a drag car I pull with my truck and a holiday trailer but that's it. The cost to do all those things and buy the extras just isn't worth it. Not to mention the resale value!

now if you were to slap a 13 speed Roadranger into it , you would have something.
 

Chronic Cat

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If I could go to a manual trans with ease I totally would. My last cummins which was an 03 had a 6spd in it and I loved it.
 

LBZ

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I have a Comercial Powertrain 68 in mine and have had zero issues with it. I'm running 464/480 with supporting mods and have 15000km on. Give Steve a call and ask him any questions you have.
X2.
Steve is the go to guy for transmissions in Alberta. One of the best with the ally or 47,48, or 68 and the 4L80 hands down.
 

LBZ

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I wouldn't call the 68rfe all that exceptional. My daily driven 10' has 147,000km and it needs trans work for sure. My cummins is fully deleted and has been since day one of its life. Straight from the dealer to my friends diesel shop for the delete. I've run a tow tune since new, and until now it's been flawless. I baby my truck, it's allowed lots of time to warm up every single day. I seriously drive it super nice. I have a 850hp foxbody mustang to pound the **** out of, it's plenty fast and GREAT stress relief. Why bag the daily driver? Anyway, 10G from commercial powertrain is way out of my realm. Just can't justify it. I called clutch and grab, had a chat and they quoted me basically 3G. That a a rebuilds with new clutches and a rebuilt converter. No VB included in that price.

Although i I like the price they quoted, I'm sceptic. How good of a trans will a guy get for 3G? Typically in life you get exactly what you pay for. I don't want to travel this road again any time real soon.

Exactly. You get what you pay for. And sometimes even when you spend the money you get junk (cough ATS cough).

Steve can do cheaper builds than 10g. That's just his price for an all out build.
Give him a call and he'll go through it with you. (403) 651-6921
 

LBZ

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You don't want to do the 48 swap. You lose a couple gears, shifts are more harsh with the pcs controller plus the other things mentioned above that you lose. It's a great trans if you want to drag or sled pull though!!

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
 

Great Pumpkin

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Have a 2010 dually with commercial power trans for 3-1/2 years now. Truck has compounds and goodies. Pulls toy hauler to crowsnest and bc regularly. Plus other trailers. Has never missed a beat. Some other places are Iconic Driveline, And Baan. Depending on your budget and future power plans. There's always the allison swap to. Not cheap though.
 

camoJoe

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Have 06 Ram 2500, 5.9 l. 250k plus, still going strong on stock transmission, have pulled some heavy loads, with it, will let you know what the future brings.
 

BIG DAWG

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Thanks, will do. Truck has 1200km. Just eliminating all foreseeable issues. Doing head studs, and trans is next. I know some will think I am crazy, but I use truck for pulling enclosed and 5th wheel. I hate having issues and prefer not to have problems.


Im currently at 297000kms on a stock 68 pulling heavy regularily with h&s on tow with their trans tune
absolutely 0 issues just stay up to date with tranny flushes and filter changes and pay attention to tranny temp
I notice that pulling into different areas on twisty up and down back rds it starts to get warm if you dont pay attention and use the manual mode to lock it in

just stay diligent pay attention and you should be fine
(this was my first auto diesel and I was skeptical at first as well)
saying that I do think I will be going back to manual because I hate the eng brake on the auto's compared to the manuals. I went the auto route last time because of the higher power rating and the fact that I had to change the clutch in my 08 back to the old style within 30000 kms of new however never had a problem after that to just under 400000 when i went to this dually.
 

Chronic Cat

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Im currently at 297000kms on a stock 68 pulling heavy regularily with h&s on tow with their trans tune
absolutely 0 issues just stay up to date with tranny flushes and filter changes and pay attention to tranny temp
I notice that pulling into different areas on twisty up and down back rds it starts to get warm if you dont pay attention and use the manual mode to lock it in

just stay diligent pay attention and you should be fine
(this was my first auto diesel and I was skeptical at first as well)
saying that I do think I will be going back to manual because I hate the eng brake on the auto's compared to the manuals. I went the auto route last time because of the higher power rating and the fact that I had to change the clutch in my 08 back to the old style within 30000 kms of new however never had a problem after that to just under 400000 when i went to this dually.






I think think the trans tune is key here!
 

arff

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What trans temperature do you run.

I burnt mine up running 260 degrees.

I also run H&S tuner
 

tex78

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Trans shop told me 220.

I am asking what everyone is seeing towing
Depends where the temp is from


Trans fluid temp sensor in valve body isn't 100% true trans temp, can be high or low

Usually low on what true fluid temp is

Cooler line actual temp going out to the coolers is proper, 230 ish line temp is where I back off
 
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