raising a shop 8'??

Summiteer

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Sorry to inform you of this, but "engineer" is a term used to loosely. To many just look at code and say you need this. They have NO knowledge of building materials or what it takes, all they know is how to read a book. It depends a lot on what you are doing for the roof also. But to say you need 2x8 for a 16' wall is incorrect.

And a picker picking it off? I will bet you that roof weights as much or MORE then most pickers COMPLETE truck.

"Engineer" is someone with an engineering degree and enough qualifying experience to be certified to stamp your plans.
 

Cyle

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LOL

ok

let me just inform you of the design process

after an idea has been created the engineer will look at the structure and come up with a material design. FROM THE ROOF DOWN.

first the live and dead loads are calculated on the structure this includes people, snow rain, wind etc. then they are companioned ( added ) together using certain formulas. adding isnt exactly correct because the chances of having the maximum snow load and the maximum rain and wind load happening all at the same time is unlikely. that is why we call it companion loading.

then these numbers are FACTORED by a factor of safety for you and for me.

once the final total factored load on the structure has been determined for your area the process begins at truss selection and doing a truss analysis. that means calculateing the forces in EACH member of the truss. fron their we select appropriate sheathing and spacing and if h clips will be required etc etc. it then moves down to the stud walls and the spacing and material is selected FROM PREDETERMINED TABLES. ( these tables are created from years of data and testing of materials that have failed in real life situations. they say the code is written in blood because each year it grows from past mistakes....probly from someone who did it your way? ) the tables say how long they can be what material they can be and the spacing. and like SNOWCHUK said. things like adding blocking, bridging and all sorts of little things like that will enable you sometimes to move down to a smaller material. IE. 2x8 stud wall vs 2x6 stud wall with full blocking. also adding a structural sheathing to the outside will also allow you to do longer and more widely spaced studs. lots of little tricks.

alot goes into a proper design. and GUESS WHAT. the "engineer" is referncing the AB code the WHOLE time because it NEEDS to connform. for him, the owner and the province. also the insurance like mentioned!!

this is how people run into alot of problems when doing renovations and new structures. its people with a poor attitude towards proper design. since they have been doing it their whole life. good on ya but when doing a project you cant just look at it and say. well it looks like 2x6s will do just fine. maybe? maybe not? who wants to take that chance when everything they own in that structure is up for chance.

the CODE and a proper design are GOD when it comes to alberta construction. poor fly by night contractors are a nightmare.

end of rant
LOLOL

:beer::beer:

also...an engineer or designer have probly forgotten more about a 2x4 and its charactaristics than you will ever know.

whats the ultimate moisture range for a 2x4 in order to reduce shrinkage in the structure cyle? how much will a 16' stud and 4 plates shrink and expand from top to bottom? what are you doing to compensate for this?

he also said the picker truck would be used to lift the roof off in sections. not complete.

You obviously missed the point. Or you have soft spot because your an engineer or something. You usually have an engineer design the roof at the truss company. But it is far from looking at building codes of the city or country, it is purely based on what is needed, not what the city wants.

What I am getting at is parkland country and the city of edmonton have different building codes, these mean nothing in terms of strength, etc it's just something who decided these things should be regulated.

Maybe you haven't been on construction sites long enough, but engineers and inspectors aren't looked at highly, because most of them don't know anything "real world" they know the books, and don't know anything else.

The stamp on your plan means nothing. It's just another money grab. Have you seen what they look at? If it meets code in your building area, it's stamped. Doesn't matter about anything else. You could use 1x2 for walls if the county doesn't have a regulation on it, it will be passed, because most of the engineers don't have a clue.

Funny how you say that, i've never had a problem getting anything passed inspection. The odd one gives a hassle if something isn't done by the "book" but one that has real world knowledge knows it's fine. Just let me know when you think you can do my job. I have stick framed a entire garage cottage style roof, and haven't heard any complaints about it yet :beer:


How many new houses are having problems that "passed code". Exactly. Building code is a JOKE, most of the new homes built are death traps because of poor workmanship that is still "code". You have NO idea what is passed and kept quite, NO IDEA. But if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy to know an engineer stamped the plan and the building meets code, go for it.

Just like I tell anyone, I can do it by the book or I can do it the right way, the choice is yours!!

And i'll show you soon enough what I mean. I am building my own house this summer. Won't be looking at any code, will be doing it the RIGHT way built myself. I'll be sure to take pics and see if your "engineering expertise" has any criticism......I doubt it.
 

Cyle

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I would get a picker and lift the roof off. I know it can be done because I've done it before....and they got loaded onto trucks! :eek: I think this is the safe way to do it :twocents:

I also don't see "sections" anywhere here :rolleyes:
 

maxwell

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You obviously missed the point. Or you have soft spot because your an engineer or something. You usually have an engineer design the roof at the truss company. But it is far from looking at building codes of the city or country, it is purely based on what is needed, not what the city wants.

What I am getting at is parkland country and the city of edmonton have different building codes, these mean nothing in terms of strength, etc it's just something who decided these things should be regulated.

Maybe you haven't been on construction sites long enough, but engineers and inspectors aren't looked at highly, because most of them don't know anything "real world" they know the books, and don't know anything else.

The stamp on your plan means nothing. It's just another money grab. Have you seen what they look at? If it meets code in your building area, it's stamped. Doesn't matter about anything else. You could use 1x2 for walls if the county doesn't have a regulation on it, it will be passed, because most of the engineers don't have a clue.

Funny how you say that, i've never had a problem getting anything passed inspection. The odd one gives a hassle if something isn't done by the "book" but one that has real world knowledge knows it's fine. Just let me know when you think you can do my job. I have stick framed a entire garage cottage style roof, and haven't heard any complaints about it yet :beer:


How many new houses are having problems that "passed code". Exactly. Building code is a JOKE, most of the new homes built are death traps because of poor workmanship that is still "code". You have NO idea what is passed and kept quite, NO IDEA. But if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy to know an engineer stamped the plan and the building meets code, go for it.

Just like I tell anyone, I can do it by the book or I can do it the right way, the choice is yours!!

And i'll show you soon enough what I mean. I am building my own house this summer. Won't be looking at any code, will be doing it the RIGHT way built myself. I'll be sure to take pics and see if your "engineering expertise" has any criticism......I doubt it.



i do not even have anything to say to that. LOL completely lost
 

maxwell

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no its not that i dont ahve anything to say. im just not wasting my time because you clearly know whats up ( kind of ). no need to explain it to you. and i dont want to ruin someone elses thread

engineering is a money grab....that shows your thought process right there.

what do you drive? i bet its engineered!! actually im sure of it!!! would you get into it if joe blow put it together?
 

pete gads

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If you have room to put rof on ground then lift off, set on ground. take off two top plates. Add 8 ft on top. To make wall strong put 16ft 2x6 very second stud from top to botom and 8ft in between. cut plywood down 4 ft and start sheeting up from there. To make really warm spray in ridged foam into walls, pick up roof set on. Need crane for about 2 to 3 hrs. I lifted a 35 x45 roof complete no problem.
 

higher n you

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met with a contractor today. after discussing many options i have decided to go with a comlete rebuild of entire structure. the cost to r&r roof was too much and too risky, so what to do with old shop? sell it? give away? tear down? any one need a shop?? i would sooner give away than pay to dispose!
 

Summiteer

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met with a contractor today. after discussing many options i have decided to go with a comlete rebuild of entire structure. the cost to r&r roof was too much and too risky, so what to do with old shop? sell it? give away? tear down? any one need a shop?? i would sooner give away than pay to dispose!

Grow op to pay for the new shop?:d
 

ZRrrr

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met with a contractor today. after discussing many options i have decided to go with a comlete rebuild of entire structure. the cost to r&r roof was too much and too risky, so what to do with old shop? sell it? give away? tear down? any one need a shop?? i would sooner give away than pay to dispose!

Advertise it in Bargain Finder, on Kajiji and so on. You will be surprised by the number of people that will come remove a complete usable building for free.
 
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