R/V Batteries

[rubirose]

Solar power on all off our untis, never, ever have dead batteries. Only have small Honda genset for microwave and for son to watch his dvd player on rainy days. Don't use any other time.

 

[Zar]

I installed the Rocky’s two 6 volt as previously stated and 7 days ago installed the 160w Sharpe system from Costco.

For testing purposes I turned every light on in the trailer (to simulate the heater motor) at about 9pm then off at about 6:30am last Monday – Friday…obviously the trailer not plugged into AC.

Very happy to report that even in a semi-cloudy week of testing the panels keep the two 6 volts at full charge, with all lights on all night!!!

I’m totally happy with the system…was easy to install too.

How did you mount these pannels to your roof ? Are they flat on th roof or did you raise them a few inches ? Did the Sharp system include mounting hardware and sealant ( for the roof ) etc. ?

 

[RETODD]

They are flat on the roof…I did not fasten them down until I was sure they’d work to my expectation without the need of being tilted. After the week of testing I’m going to fasten them directly to the roof…no tilting mechanism. The install directions call for a 5 degree slope so as rain etc. keeps them free of grit, my trailer roof is convex…about 5 degrees.

Yes they came with all the mounting hardware, each panel has six mounts that consist of a rubber isolating grommet, the bolt to the frame and a self-tapping screw for the trailer roof. I had to buy the rubber sealing compound from RV World on Argyl Road.

Going to take the big plunge Thursday as they are not calling for any more showers after then.

Kinda unnerving screwing 12 holes in the roof of your unit but all I’ve talked to say no problem with the right sealant!!!

 

[teeroy]

I also converted to the 2-6 volt batteries last season (thanks for the advice Murminator) and am totally happy with the setup. On the old single 12v battery it would last 36hrs if you had to run the furnace for one night. We have gone 5 days (4 nights) with the 6v's, furnace running every night, and still had charge in the batteries. Haven't run them dead yet, but never really tried....

 

[Zar]

They are flat on the roof…I did not fasten them down until I was sure they’d work to my expectation without the need of being tilted. After the week of testing I’m going to fasten them directly to the roof…no tilting mechanism. The install directions call for a 5 degree slope so as rain etc. keeps them free of grit, my trailer roof is convex…about 5 degrees.

Yes they came with all the mounting hardware, each panel has six mounts that consist of a rubber isolating grommet, the bolt to the frame and a self-tapping screw for the trailer roof. I had to buy the rubber sealing compound from RV World on Argyl Road.

Going to take the big plunge Thursday as they are not calling for any more showers after then.

Kinda unnerving screwing 12 holes in the roof of your unit but all I’ve talked to say no problem with the right sealant!!!

Yes I hear ya ! I too am reluctant to put any holes in the rubber roof on my trailer. I know there is a lot of openings ( vents , AC, antena etc.) but I think the less the better. I don't think it can be avoided. I was curious about any comment from Sharps installation instructions regarding the heat build up under the pannel ( black glass surface under a hot sun on the Solar Pannel) doesn't cook the rubber roof. I guess that is what the rubber grommets are for to allow some air flow. My situtation is that I mount the pannel on it's own stand ( not on the trailer ) but I am tempted to move the pannels on the trailer and I would have to get my own mounting hardware. The old trailers had a tin or aluminum sheet roof and I don't think it would have been a problem on the old trailers. Thanks for the advice.

Cheers

 

[sledderdoc]

I put mine on years ago and it has been excellent!! No leaks but I sealed them too. The panel sits atleast 1/2 in above the rubber so heating is not an issue and I have had her in some forty degree weather for a week. Though the air conditioner would crap out if anything ... it never stopped!

 

[RETODD]

Yes I hear ya ! I too am reluctant to put any holes in the rubber roof on my trailer. I know there is a lot of openings ( vents , AC, antena etc.) but I think the less the better. I don't think it can be avoided. I was curious about any comment from Sharps installation instructions regarding the heat build up under the pannel ( black glass surface under a hot sun on the Solar Pannel) doesn't cook the rubber roof. I guess that is what the rubber grommets are for to allow some air flow. My situtation is that I mount the pannel on it's own stand ( not on the trailer ) but I am tempted to move the pannels on the trailer and I would have to get my own mounting hardware. The old trailers had a tin or aluminum sheet roof and I don't think it would have been a problem on the old trailers. Thanks for the advice.

Cheers

I'd say the panel itself is two inches above the trailer in its frame and the trailer facing side is bright white...there is lots of room for air movement and were no comments in the install guide about this...i do not think this will be an issue.

I'll take pics this week and post them once I do the final mount.

 

[Puba]

I took my fifth weel out to the inlaws and discovered (I think) my batteries are pooched. They are always stored in the basement over winter, periodically recharged. I drove 2 hours and ran the furnace for 3 hours and they were stone cold dead. The next day, I had them on chargers for seven hours. They lasted just through the night running just the furnace. They are the batteries that came with the unit at time of purchace 2 years ago. They are green deep cycle "Interstate R/V" batteries. Is this a cheap brand? What are people running in their units? Anyone have any experience with battery problems & what are some solutions? I have heard of people running 6 volt batteries. What is the pros & cons? Arg!!!! I hate dealing with electrical!!!
Little help here?

I changed over to 2 6 volt workhorse batteries and they have been in my coach for 4 years now. Never a lick of trouble.

When you store your batteries your not putting them on the direct concrete basement floor are you..... Always put a piece of wood under the batteries so that they do not touch the concrete, same when you are charging a battery.

 

[RETODD]

I changed over to 2 6 volt workhorse batteries and they have been in my coach for 4 years now. Never a lick of trouble.

When you store your batteries your not putting them on the direct concrete basement floor are you..... Always put a piece of wood under the batteries so that they do not touch the concrete, same when you are charging a battery.

Man...took me a bit of convincing but with the help of the internet and the scientist out there we can safely say the concrete battery thing is a myth:

:d Tons of data...here is one example:

Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ, Battery Manufacturers and Brand Names List, and

14.1. MYTH: Storing batteries on a concrete floor will discharge them.

False! All lead-acid batteries will naturally self-discharge which can result in loss of capacity from sulfation. The rate of self-discharge is most influenced by the temperature of the battery's electrolyte and the chemistry of the plates. This self-discharge is often mistaken for concrete floor causing the battery to drain. Some experts believe that storing car or deep cycle batteries on a colder concrete floor might actually slow down the self-discharge (leakage) rate because the floor acts as a heat sink and cools the battery. (Please see Section 13 for more information on storing batteries and Section 1 for more information on sulfation.

In the early 1900s, when battery cases were made of porous materials such as tar-lined wood boxes, storing batteries on concrete floor would accelerate their natural self-discharge due to external leakage. Modern battery cases are made of polypropylene or hard rubber. These cases are sealed better, so external leakage-causing discharge is no longer a problem, provided the top of the battery is clean and free from wet or dried electrolyte and the same temperature as the floor.

Large differences in temperature could cause electrolyte stratification within very large batteries (>250 AH) which could accelerate it's internal "leakage" or self-discharge if the battery is sitting on an extremely cold concrete, stone or steel floor in a warm room, boat or submarine. Stirrers or bubblers are often used on these types of large batteries to keep the electrolyte from stratifying. Undercharging will also cause electrolyte stratification, which can also result in loss of capacity from sulfation.

 

[jeepchic]

One thing I can add is that we bought a plug in cooler at canadian tire for our trailer.....we used it one weekend and it toasted our batteries...they have never been the same since so we took the cooler back!!!!

 

[Zar]

One thing I can add is that we bought a plug in cooler at canadian tire for our trailer.....we used it one weekend and it toasted our batteries...they have never been the same since so we took the cooler back!!!!

One trick I learned from an old tymer is that he put half of a asprine tablet in each cell to help clean the sulfied build up on the plates. I tried it and it worked Ok and brought back a junk battery to some useable capacity . I also found a battery conditioner I bought from Royal Distributing and that work better. Just add a ounce or so to each cell. I don't think it bring them to 100 % but it helps. On an old or abused battery - you have nothing to lose. Be careful on working with batteries and use the standard precautions.

 

[youngpolarisguy]

has anyone ran 2 12 volt batterys and seen how this has worked out..

 

[Zar]

has anyone ran 2 12 volt batterys and seen how this has worked out..

My old system had 2 12 V deep cycle marine batteries and the guy at Rocky's battery said that 2 6V batteries should out perform the 2 12 V batteries (of the same physical size)

 

[RETODD]

Solar Panels Installed

Was not bad at all....they're not going anywhere :d

 

[RETODD]

Ran on Solar power all weekend...man am I happy with this setup...picture of the panels pushing over 11 amps into the two 6 volts...really can go indefinitely now!!!!

 

[roland]

I am running 2 - 6 volt deep cycle Interstates with a 15 watt solar panel. I have also put in a battery shut off switch so there is no drain from all the new electronics in the trailer durinf the week when not out and the panel shows full powere. Without the shut off my batteries sould be dead after 2 weeks. My son has 2-12 volts and doesnt seem to have a problem. We also have 3000 Kypor generators that supply charging.

 

[TylerG]

My old system had 2 12 V deep cycle marine batteries and the guy at Rocky's battery said that 2 6V batteries should out perform the 2 12 V batteries (of the same physical size)

if you are looking to do this make sure you wire them in parallel.... if wired in series you will be feeding your 12v system 24v's

Series Example

Parallel Example

 

[sledderdoc]

Ran on Solar power all weekend...man am I happy with this setup...picture of the panels pushing over 11 amps into the two 6 volts...really can go indefinitely now!!!!

View attachment 28601

I'm only running one of those panels and it pushed my two 6V to 13.8 last time we were out camping .... only way to go! :d

 

[Murminator]

I'm only running one of those panels and it pushed my two 6V to 13.8 last time we were out camping .... only way to go! :d

Yup I run dual 6ers and I have blaten disreguard for power and never have an issue. With a single 12 I would conserve power with batterpowered lights and only used power when I had to just the make a long weekend.

Here is some good readin' on batteries

 

[RETODD]

I'm only running one of those panels and it pushed my two 6V to 13.8 last time we were out camping .... only way to go! :d

Yip...I'm getting 14.2 volts...that was 11.3 amps showing how fast (strong the two panels are) it will charge on a semi cloudy day...:d:d:d:d