Just wondering how warm outside can it be before its a risk of overheating? ?? Cause my m800 was overheating within minutes. I had to switch machines and ran my rmk all day and ended up being 13c today. I think this thing has problems....
question about ridding on warmer days
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You should never over heat, as long as you have snow hitting you exchangers/tunnel.
Phat Cat
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What year is your M800? I know the 14's with the short heat exchanger will get hot if the ice scratchers are not down.
We rode Whitecourt's Carson Lake trail yesterday and as long as we had our scratchers out there were no issues with overheating. I run a 2010 M8,wife is on an 08 M6 and our boy is running a 2007 F5 with a 136 track with a 2" lug. Maybe check your rad cap. Buddy of mine had his 800 rev overheating constantly a couple seasons ago no matter what the conditions and he replaced the rad cap and it fixed his issue. If your cap doesn't seal properly your sled will overheat easier. Hope this helps and good luck.
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I had posted before on another thread that this machine just keeps overheating. It now has a brand new top end and the sled only has 181kms on it total! Just got it back from Ralphs yesterday they said it was all good, took it down to corbin and within 2-3 kms maybe of ridding it overheated. And kept overheating, had to ride every 100 feet and stop because It was hot. Keep in min the machine has never ran right. Always overheated! Ralphs changed the top end and changed rad fluid and clutch update. Fed up with the sled I put it on the side to see how hot that front exchanger was, and was friggin boiling!!! Couldn't touch it and that's the snow melting right off instantly. I'm not sure how hot there spose to get but you would think with cold snow on it all the time you would be able to touch it even for a second. Ice Scratchers were down but I was on the side of he trail where the snow was deep
2013 proclimb 163
2013 proclimb 163
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Phat Cat
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The 13s had the long heat exchanger all the way to the back of the tunnel right? I believe the HCRs had the short exchanger. I know you said the front exchanger was hot so it should also be hot to the back of the exchanger. Chould it be possibe the water pump is air locked? Ive had water pumps air locked before and can be a real PITA to get circulating. The front needs to be jacked up so that the back of the heat exchanger is lower than the pump. Run it with the cap off the reservoir and see if there is any air bubbles coming out. It will need to be hot enough for the thermostat to open. Do you have the shop manual? I can send you a link if you dont have it.
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Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
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There is no exchanger on the back, only the front. I'm loading it up right now while its cool out and see if it does it again. The actual kms ridden yesterday was 1.4 kms lol If you can send me the manual that would be great
moyiesledhead
Active VIP Member
Has it been modded? I thought the M8's all had a rear heat exchanger. If not that was a dumb idea on Cat's part!
Phat Cat
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My wife has a 14 m8000 sp and it only has the short front exchanger. I cant remember but is there a bleed screw on the 800s ? The manual will tell you. Here is a link to a manual. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3aervmbcnv5si7j/TY16CuwDBA it is a 2012 manual but it will work. Let me know if the link works.
snoqueen
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The 13's and 14's only have the front heat exchanger unless you have the one with electric start. I have a 12 with the back heat exchanger and no issues with overheating, however my hubby's 13 overheats on hardpacked even with the scratchers down. I'm riding a 14 this year and I've overheated a couple times on the hardpacked too. I like the fact that there is less ice build up without the heat exchanger, but I guess the trade off is a bit of overheating.
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ThrottleOps
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you sir have an air lock! get that front end elevated and take the coolant cap off.. there is a process im not 100% sure of it though!
Phat Cat
Active VIP Member
Found this in the AC Manual. I think bopper might be right. Also maybe a bad thermostat although I haven't heard of that happening before.
FILLING COOLING SYSTEM
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile 30-60 cm (12-14 in.).
2. Remove the coolant tank cap and check coolant
level. The coolant tank should be filled to the coolant
level line.
3. Install the coolant tank cap; then start the engine.
Run the engine at 3000-3500 RPM until the bottom
heat exchangers become hot to the touch. Stop the
engine and allow the system to cool.
NOTE: On the F-Series prior to starting the engine,
connect the console/main harness plug-in and place
the console in position. Do not secure the console
with the torx-head screws at this time.
4. Lower the front of the snowmobile and elevate the
rear of the snowmobile 12-14 in. Repeat the procedures
in step 3.
5. Check the coolant level. Add coolant as required to
the coolant tank (coolant tank should be filled to
coolant level line). Repeat procedure until coolant
level stabilizes in the coolant tank.
NOTE: If coolant is required, mix coolant for a temperature
of -36°C (-34°F). Follow mixing recommendations
of the manufacturer of the coolant.
FILLING COOLING SYSTEM
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile 30-60 cm (12-14 in.).
2. Remove the coolant tank cap and check coolant
level. The coolant tank should be filled to the coolant
level line.
3. Install the coolant tank cap; then start the engine.
Run the engine at 3000-3500 RPM until the bottom
heat exchangers become hot to the touch. Stop the
engine and allow the system to cool.
NOTE: On the F-Series prior to starting the engine,
connect the console/main harness plug-in and place
the console in position. Do not secure the console
with the torx-head screws at this time.
4. Lower the front of the snowmobile and elevate the
rear of the snowmobile 12-14 in. Repeat the procedures
in step 3.
5. Check the coolant level. Add coolant as required to
the coolant tank (coolant tank should be filled to
coolant level line). Repeat procedure until coolant
level stabilizes in the coolant tank.
NOTE: If coolant is required, mix coolant for a temperature
of -36°C (-34°F). Follow mixing recommendations
of the manufacturer of the coolant.
Pistonbroke
Active VIP Member
Ding! Burp that system, dude.
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So the sled is toast, motor is shot again! Keep in mind I just got a new top end through warranty last week. Ralphs said the machine wasn't getting any oil. There's a ball on the bottom of the oil tank that wasn't moving and stopping oil from getting to the motor. So now there trying to get me a crate motor.
Ball of what? or is this something OEM that cat has in there tank that just wasn't working properly?
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