Primary rubbing on e-module support

[Slopedeceder]

2015 Summit 800Etec 163

Figured out this week that my lower s-module cracked at the a-arm mount. I think I've been riding on it like that unknowingly for 1-2 years, so it also buckled my main s-module in a few spots. I checked the e-module and spindle to skid measurements and everything appears straight.

Also I'm not sure how it broke. I haven't really hit anything.

However I noticed that the ring gear bolts on my primary are rubbing on the e-module support, I suspect under load or driving as when parked its not rubbing. I also noticed the engine stopper was way out of adjustment.

If I replace the s-module and adjust the stopper to correct spec. Do you think it will stop this rubbing? Or is there something else going on?

 

[pipes]

that can't be good.

 

[mikeydoo]

been there done that a few times lol. Pull the s-mod. pull the front portion of the e-mod. straighten it all out as you put it all together you will see where the damage went. try to pull the clutch side frame back over. If its not burning belts leave the engine mounts alone. If it is loosen them off adjust the engine so the ring gear wont grind and put on a floating secondary kit to get the clutches inline again.

 

[oler1234]

check for broken motor mounts as well.

3mm gap for the engine stopper is how skidoo sets it up but this allows the motor to 'walk' or 'pull' towards the exhaust side of the snowmobile which in turn may be a contributing factor of the clutch rubbing the frame. typically everyone sets it up with 0 gap or even pre-load the engine to the stopper.

 

[Slopedeceder]

Ok, thanks for the feedbacks. Sounds like I'm on the right track with replacing the s-module and adjusting that engine stopper.

 

[Bnorth]

Answered you on DT but yeah do the full S-mod and straighten the front of the E-mod with hammer and dolly while it is apart. Source a Freeride or 600RS S-module as they are tougher than the Summit S-mod. Last one I did the Freeride was actually a few Canuckistan Kopeks cheaper as well.

 

[Slopedeceder]

Answered you on DT but yeah do the full S-mod and straighten the front of the E-mod with hammer and dolly while it is apart. Source a Freeride or 600RS S-module as they are tougher than the Summit S-mod. Last one I did the Freeride was actually a few Canuckistan Kopeks cheaper as well.

10-4. Ordered the freeride one since it was cheaper and neither was in stock.

Also ordered a grip and rip lower brace. Since I generally only use my for back country access for skiing, hopefully this will set me up for many more years of trouble free miles…(knock on wood)

 

[Bnorth]

I think the braces help a bit on small hits. On big ones I have still bent the module. The module system is one of the few downfalls of the XM platform.

 

[lilduke]

Replacing the bulkheads on the newer ones is a pain in the dick too. Lol

 

[greenthumb]

If you doo decide to fix it, maybe consider a used chassis. Yours may be bent elsewhere or have a bunch of other undiscovered wear. XM parts are getting cheap like this one on marketplace.