Primary Rollers

[Shermanator]

This may have been covered before but I can't find it. Primary rollers, is that a cage the needle bearings are in that rotates with the bearings??? The reason I ask is that 2 of mine do not rotate, and with information from a "mechanic " they should be replaced. I bought one, it doesn't rotate either! Can these be cleaned with brake cleaner and then relubed or are they sealed??

 

[greenthumb]

If you are referring to the 3 steel rollers that the flyweights push on, yes they have a little needle bearing inside. They should rotate, but even new ones are often stiff. They can be removed without removing the clutch completely. I have cleaned and repacked them with good success, although I have seen where the bearing has disintegrated and had to be replaced. If you do need to order parts, I'd check the red washers and the black plastic pieces that the flyweights pivot, as I've seen them get worn. Don't forget the loctite.

 

[Shermanator]

If you are referring to the 3 steel rollers that the flyweights push on, yes they have a little needle bearing inside. They should rotate, but even new ones are often stiff. They can be removed without removing the clutch completely. I have cleaned and repacked them with good success, although I have seen where the bearing has disintegrated and had to be replaced. If you do need to order parts, I'd check the red washers and the black plastic pieces that the flyweights pivot, as I've seen them get worn. Don't forget the loctite.

So that cage that holds the needle bearings is supposed to rotate as well? What'd you use to clean them out.? Thanx!

 

[greenthumb]

So that cage that holds the needle bearings is supposed to rotate as well? What'd you use to clean them out.? Thanx!

Hmmmmm. Cannot recall that level of detail, but if it all looks good after cleaning, I'd run it.
I used brake clean, but a parts washer or wd-40 would work too. I believe the cage may be plastic, so keep that in mind if you use something aggressive.

 

[Shermanator]

Did a little engineering and made a hard rubber stopper that I could insert into the bearing, which was then tight enough to actually spin the bearing itself. To answer my own question, yes, the cage does spin along with the needle bearings. The bearing I replaced, nothing wrong with it, is pretty much the same as the one I was told was FUBAR'd by the "mechanic", always good to have a spare! The friction that prevents the cage from rotating would appear to be caused more by the rubber seals that are in the bearing rather than something worn out, short of the bearings actually breaking but then that'd be lack of lube probably. I can't see the cage being made of plastic but then who knows what they're putting in some of this stuff. Nearly 5000 km on the Russian Rocket and so far all good!

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Last week I serviced[said loosely] the 3 steel rollers on my clutch. Removed them. Sprayed em' with chlorinated brake kleen, rolled the axle in the roller bore. Kept spraying the needle bearings with brake kleen. Do the procedure again to get the axle to roll easily. Then took JB-80, sprayed the roller bore and run the pin through and rolled it around, sprayed more, repeat a few times. Put 50km on Sunday. As I type this, I just went over and checked the rollers and they are moving freely with the pad of my thumb. My advice is to get at it and remove the rollers, clean em' up and free them up as best as you can. The next cheap spray lubricant ima gonna try is that garage door Jig-A-Loo lithium, maybe some Fluid film [stinky winky]. My sled has 4900km now and im gonna replace the rollers. Prolly dont need to, but gona do it anyway on the next clutch parts i'll test.

 

[Shermanator]

Last week I serviced[said loosely] the 3 steel rollers on my clutch. Removed them. Sprayed em' with chlorinated brake kleen, rolled the axle in the roller bore. Kept spraying the needle bearings with brake kleen. Do the procedure again to get the axle to roll easily. Then took JB-80, sprayed the roller bore and run the pin through and rolled it around, sprayed more, repeat a few times. Put 50km on Sunday. As I type this, I just went over and checked the rollers and they are moving freely with the pad of my thumb. My advice is to get at it and remove the rollers, clean em' up and free them up as best as you can. The next cheap spray lubricant ima gonna try is that garage door Jig-A-Loo lithium, maybe some Fluid film [stinky winky]. My sled has 4900km now and im gonna replace the rollers. Prolly dont need to, but gona do it anyway on the next clutch parts i'll test.

So my question would be is why would the new roller I bought be so stiff! It was like the ones that had 4700kms on them. Do you figure it's clutch dust that bungs them up??? I always thought they should roll easier than they do but the new roller threw me off....

 

[Cableguy]

I think its the thick isoflex grease they use
Having them snug and slow rolling should help with longevity I think

 

[jcjc1]

the half dozen new rollers i've seen when putting clutch kits in a new sled have all had resistance.

 

[catrutt]

Just checked mine today and they still feel the same as they always did . I now have 2800km.

 

[Shermanator]

Had the roller that I replaced, gave it a massive brake clean job like DJ mentioned, bunch of brown crap washed out. But, the cage inside loosened right up and spun like a bugger! I believe that resistance you feel is the rubber seals, as this washed roller had the same feel with the shaft back in. I think the secret is to clean and lube them as regular maintenance, they couldn't be any easier to do!

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Rode on the 9th about 3/4 tank of gas. The other night I pulled the primary off to do some changes and again the rollers spun super easy. When the rollers are cold [outside] they dont move so easy and when warm the rollers move easier. My clutches are at room temp [shop at 70deg F]

 

[dcb1971]

Do the new replacement rollers from Ski Doo have grease in them from the factory? Part number 417224285.

 

[oler1234]

Do the new replacement rollers from Ski Doo have grease in them from the factory? Part number 417224285.

A small squirt…. I just greased em up some more.

 

[AkNomad]

I had one of my rollers break in half while out on a ride, when I got home I pulled the secondary out but could not get one of the bolts holding the broken roller out, my mechanic couldn't even get it to come out and I ended up replacing the whole fixed sheave. I wasn't aware that the primary had rollers in it, good to know for down the road maintenance.

 

[jcjc1]

the 2 secondary rollers have pins thru the bolts that have to be removed before backing the bolt out. replace them with hi-torque rollers since the factory ones break often enough.

 

[AkNomad]

the 2 secondary rollers have pins thru the bolts that have to be removed before backing the bolt out. replace them with hi-torque rollers since the factory ones break often enough.

Yeah, I found out the hard way that there were roll pins in those bolts and the bearing needs to be removed to get those pins out, lesson learned.

 

[jcjc1]

Yeah, I found out the hard way that there were roll pins in those bolts and the bearing needs to be removed to get those pins out, lesson learned.

there's no need to remove the bearing on the jackshaft but to be clear, i'm referring to '20 and up summits which are the only sleds i've put aftermarket secondary rollers in.

 

[AkNomad]

there's no need to remove the bearing on the jackshaft but to be clear, i'm referring to '20 and up summits which are the only sleds i've put aftermarket secondary rollers in.

According to a Ski Doo mechanic I know and that does all the maintenance I'm not willing to do on my machines, he told me it does need to come out and after watching him work on it I can see why it does. I'm also talking about my 2021 Summit.

 

[Cableguy]

bearing is cheap
just cut it off and replace rollers and install a new bearing