P drive on xm

[Mcstuck87]

I took my p drive off of my xm to service the crank bearing. I didn’t not mark the clutch location to the crank. I can’t find a timing mark to line up with the crank mark. And I cannot find an answer anywhere. Yes the p drive is off a 600rs. Full taper but I’m not sure if it needs to be lined up like the TRA.


TIA


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[ctd]

My guess is the 600rs P Drive will not have the machined wobble assuming the fixed half does not have the "D" in the taper. If this is true the position on the crank won't be critical.

The most knowledgeable about this the would be Greg @ Goodwin Performance, very helpful & has worked with the Ski Doo race dept. alot. He is very approachable & easy to talk, won't come off with typical type book of encyclopedia BS cause I'm a racer.

If you cannot get answers, I have a couple of good 800 E Tec cranks that were replace prior to failure. My second guess is the crank timing mark will be TDC either PTO or Mag & can check for you.

My questions for you is how many miles do you have on the P Drive. Did you make the swap & what are the results comparing to the TRA? The TRA works well once the calibration is sorted, my bitch was how fast the moveable half bushing would go out of spec. Heat was the killer.

 

[Mcstuck87]

Thank you for the knowledge and that does make sense about the p drive being ok any position on the crank. Just the TRA has a timing mark on it for the crank. Just want to make sure I’m safe as I head to the mountains in just over a week.

I wanted the p drive for the temperature, it wasn’t nearly as hot as the TRA and way more availability to change weights on the hill . I have only put on 500 miles at that if I am lucky I was having some issues with my turbo set up which hindered my riding. I’m really hoping for a smooth run this year where I can just ride and pay attention to things like how my sled is reacting


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[Mcstuck87]

My guess is the 600rs P Drive will not have the machined wobble assuming the fixed half does not have the "D" in the taper. If this is true the position on the crank won't be critical.

The most knowledgeable about this the would be Greg @ Goodwin Performance, very helpful & has worked with the Ski Doo race dept. alot. He is very approachable & easy to talk, won't come off with typical type book of encyclopedia BS cause I'm a racer.

If you cannot get answers, I have a couple of good 800 E Tec cranks that were replace prior to failure. My second guess is the crank timing mark will be TDC either PTO or Mag & can check for you.

My questions for you is how many miles do you have on the P Drive. Did you make the swap & what are the results comparing to the TRA? The TRA works well once the calibration is sorted, my bitch was how fast the moveable half bushing would go out of spec. Heat was the killer.

Called that Greg guy. He was awesome, wish he was closer I’d give him my business any day


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[oler1234]

Called that Greg guy. He was awesome, wish he was closer I’d give him my business any day


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What did Greg have to say? At least finish off an answer to the question of this thread as others may find it useful in the future.

 

[ctd]

Called that Greg guy. He was awesome, wish he was closer I’d give him my business any day


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Very good news.

I've had very good discussions with him over the years, we do things somewhat differently as he is flat land & we are mountains. He is always willing/wanting to compare notes, how & why etc.

Hopefully you came away with some good ideas & a better understanding how the P Drive works & how to apply it to a boosted 800 E Tec. It's a lot harder to get the 800 E Tec dialed when boosted because you loose control of part throttle fuel. The way the clickers work with the P Drive it may help driving thru that area.

 

[Mcstuck87]

What did Greg have to say? At least finish off an answer to the question of this thread as others may find it useful in the future.

Honestly thought no one else would care about the answer. But just like previously mentioned. Full taper (600 rs) doesn’t need to be timed to crank because its machine from factory to be light weight and balanced. Only the 850 p drive does due to the flat spot on the crank which the p drive is weighted to make up the weight being off at the flat spot.


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[Mcstuck87]

Very good news.

I've had very good discussions with him over the years, we do things somewhat differently as he is flat land & we are mountains. He is always willing/wanting to compare notes, how & why etc.

Hopefully you came away with some good ideas & a better understanding how the P Drive works & how to apply it to a boosted 800 E Tec. It's a lot harder to get the 800 E Tec dialed when boosted because you loose control of part throttle fuel. The way the clickers work with the P Drive it may help driving thru that area.

Yeah I’m running an aerocharger and I like being able to add or remove weight if needed. This year I invested in a c3 fuel controller from redline. No lore dobek box. Just a little trim knob and go. Little lean little fuel. That’s it. I’m anticipating a pull and go season


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[Mcstuck87]

Honestly thought no one else would care about the answer. But just like previously mentioned. Full taper (600 rs) doesn’t need to be timed to crank because its machine from factory to be light weight and balanced. Only the 850 p drive does due to the flat spot on the crank which the p drive is weighted to make up the weight being off at the flat spot.


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By the way thanks again!


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