Over reving on the 850T

[prairieguy]

Just put a set of turbo tamers in my 22 expert T and love how the rpm’s are bang on compared to the over reving and back firing that was going on before. Haven’t been out to mountains to try it there yet but around northern sask it’s working awesome

 

[Caper11]

Just put a set of turbo tamers in my 22 expert T and love how the rpm’s are bang on compared to the over reving and back firing that was going on before. Haven’t been out to mountains to try it there yet but around northern sask it’s working awesome

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So here is a question, did you try to add pivot weight before the tamers?

 

[Summitizer]

Just put a set of turbo tamers in my 22 expert T and love how the rpm’s are bang on compared to the over reving and back firing that was going on before. Haven’t been out to mountains to try it there yet but around northern sask it’s working awesome

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Ya it appears to be a nice kit at a reasonable price too. And it comes with the tools to do the job.

 

[Summitizer]

Just put a set of turbo tamers in my 22 expert T and love how the rpm’s are bang on compared to the over reving and back firing that was going on before. Haven’t been out to mountains to try it there yet but around northern sask it’s working awesome

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You better double check the placement of the weight bolts. I think the tip ones are installed on the wrong side.

 

[oler1234]

Threw on a xs821 belt.

Dropped rpm 100-200rpm.

Cant complain, lots of bit, no slip. Belt temp monitor shows 5-7c less.

 

[honda450]

DJ kit works perfect

I didn’t live my dj kit. Made the middle feel lazy. Prefer stock over dj kit. Other than the low engagement is sweet.

 

[skegpro]

I didn’t live my dj kit. Made the middle feel lazy. Prefer stock over dj kit. Other than the low engagement is sweet.

Can you expand on this a little.

 

[skegpro]

Threw on a xs821 belt.

Dropped rpm 100-200rpm.

Cant complain, lots of bit, no slip. Belt temp monitor shows 5-7c less.

I had the same findings

 

[bendy]

I didn’t live my dj kit. Made the middle feel lazy. Prefer stock over dj kit. Other than the low engagement is sweet.

The guy I sold my SHR kit said the same thing.

 

[bendy]

You better double check the placement of the weight bolts. I think the tip ones are installed on the wrong side.

I installed my tip bolt the opposite way the heel is installed as per the instruction.

 

[Caper11]

I didn’t live my dj kit. Made the middle feel lazy. Prefer stock over dj kit. Other than the low engagement is sweet.

Using the stock primary spring helps with that, some people notice it, some do not.

 

[drew562]

Mine was over Rev also. I added weight. Made the Sled lazy and kind of delayed power. Ordered clutch kit from Arctic edge Brent Lindemann and apparently he and Kuster worked on this. Slightly taller bottom gear different helix. Rode it this past weekend and the ground speed and track speed is way better compared to stock. Super snappy and responsive still. RPMs dead on 79 to 8000

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

I have a new dj clutch kit sitting on my shop bench that I won't get to install on this sled unfortunately.

Asking $450 and I will pay for the shipping to you.

Keep the kit buddy. The only thing i have to do is get the new primary clutch weight and make a new legend.
also have to check the spider out to see what kind of clearance it has to the pivots but if its the same beefy one i seen then i'll be alright.
That kit as-is will work to 185hp and not change the primary spring

 

[neilsleder]

Mine was over Rev also. I added weight. Made the Sled lazy and kind of delayed power. Ordered clutch kit from Arctic edge Brent Lindemann and apparently he and Kuster worked on this. Slightly taller bottom gear different helix. Rode it this past weekend and the ground speed and track speed is way better compared to stock. Super snappy and responsive still. RPMs dead on 79 to 8000

Wouldn’t hesitate to buy anything from Arctic edge. Brent knows his stuff!

 

[drew562]

Wouldn’t hesitate to buy anything from Arctic edge. Brent knows his stuff!

He does. His kit definitely works. I’m more than happy with the results. It even revs a little lower on the trails. Super snappy in the trees. And wicked ground speed climbing. I beat on it hard this Saturday in fresh snow and warm weather. No belt warning or high temps.

 

[prairieguy]

You better double check the placement of the weight bolts. I think the tip ones are installed on the wrong side.

I wanted to run two washers

 

[greenthumb]

Resurrecting an old sled with an update:

Towards the end of last season I installed a reputable local shop's 'kit' that seemed to have good feedback. It consisted of a +1 tooth (22T) top gear, a skidoo multi angle helix, primary spring and their own bolts/washers. It was a notable improvement on the trail, bringing the rpms down, but didn't really cure my overrevving in deep snow. I ended up back on clicker 1 with a whole bunch of pivot weight to keep rpms down. Lazy shifting, bland feeling and maybe slightly higher belt temps (likely due to gear up) - but not enough to be an issue. Funny how the 3 other '22 turbos I was riding with all held a solid 8000 all day right out of the box.

Recently, I installed a set of the heavier '23 turbo weights (761/992). I removed some pivot weight to keep the total weight (flyweight+bolt+washers) the same at 70.4g and moved up to clicker 3. Idea here was to get more toe and less heel/pivot weight. The rest of the 'kit' from last year remained installed as is.
So far, I'd say it is a worthwhile improvement. The shifting is notably different across the board, but some of that has to do with the clicker change. Still needs a little tweaking, but seems to be pretty consistent in the 7900 range. Early season conditions still, so will see.

 

[ctd]

Resurrecting an old sled with an update:

Towards the end of last season I installed a reputable local shop's 'kit' that seemed to have good feedback. It consisted of a +1 tooth (22T) top gear, a skidoo multi angle helix, primary spring and their own bolts/washers. It was a notable improvement on the trail, bringing the rpms down, but didn't really cure my overrevving in deep snow. I ended up back on clicker 1 with a whole bunch of pivot weight to keep rpms down. Lazy shifting, bland feeling and maybe slightly higher belt temps (likely due to gear up) - but not enough to be an issue. Funny how the 3 other '22 turbos I was riding with all held a solid 8000 all day right out of the box.

Recently, I installed a set of the heavier '23 turbo weights (761/992). I removed some pivot weight to keep the total weight (flyweight+bolt+washers) the same at 70.4g and moved up to clicker 3. Idea here was to get more toe and less heel/pivot weight. The rest of the 'kit' from last year remained installed as is.
So far, I'd say it is a worthwhile improvement. The shifting is notably different across the board, but some of that has to do with the clicker change. Still needs a little tweaking, but seems to be pretty consistent in the 7900 range. Early season conditions still, so will see.

A couple of things I've found, piling weight on the pivot point adds to feeling lazy. You need the weight out on the end where it is effective, then you have less total.

Gearing up is going to add to feeling lazy, that does not mean it is wrong. Correct gearing is a 1:1 clutch ratio in your high load condition, this is different for everyone & many factors affect your high load.

Most factor ramps have the little bump @ engagement, the typical solution is to soften the rate of the spring to correct that. That solves one problem & creates others such as feeling lazy & reduced back shift.

If you are using clicker ramps, the P Drive likes to see 3, 4 & 5 as running numbers, opposite to the TRA which favored 1,2 & 3.

Progressive helix, you did not mention if reverse angle? Turbo's are different & I've been surprised what the factory turbo likes.

The P Drive wobble generates heat, I always find that sheave warmer than the others. When you get the combination right the belt temperature is low, the wobble sheave not so much. The other sheaves are warm & everything lives.

My experience with P Drive N/A or Turbo, anything & everyone can make it better, it's hard to go backwards because of the less than stellar calibration's from BRP. Test & tune!

 

[Caper11]

If you are using clicker ramps, the P Drive likes to see 3, 4 & 5 as running numbers, opposite to the TRA which favored 1,2 & 3.

Unfortunately this statement is incorrect.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[snoflake]

Me a a buddie just had the powder lites kit put on our 2022 doo turbos. Sleds over reved once in while before the kit. Now the kit has the clutch at clicker 3, and pulls 8000 consistently.