Off Winter Storage

[RCMP DAD]

Hey Folks.... As disappointed as I am with this years snows conditions, I am storing my machine with no hopes of any more riding this season. Are there any tips to storing a snowmobile that may help with an easy introduction to next years starting and operation of my machine now that it will be off warranty come next winter? ( 2014 Indy ). Any information will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[brian h]

i fill oil injection resevoir full so no condensation , block machine up so no weight on suspension,grease the machine to push any water out,some guys say drain fuel and start with fresh fuel,others will say run fuel empty,others will say to fill fuel full to keep condensation, i fill mine and start machine up 1 a month and run and never have aproblem. blow out cluthc dust with air and spray in lubricant. i always wash machine before parking it

 

[RCMP DAD]

i fill oil injection resevoir full so no condensation , block machine up so no weight on suspension,grease the machine to push any water out,some guys say drain fuel and start with fresh fuel,others will say run fuel empty,others will say to fill fuel full to keep condensation, i fill mine and start machine up 1 a month and run and never have aproblem. blow out cluthc dust with air and spray in lubricant. i always wash machine before parking it

Thanks Brian. I have done the washing and cleaning. I wasn't sure what to do with the fuel and never even gave greasing a thought. Should I consider a fuel stabilizer as there is over a half tank? Should I run the carbs dry? Should I unload the spring suspension when the weight is off? Any more help would be a great asset! Thanks.

 

[tex78]

Sea foam in gas tank and leave it, stabilizer built on and keeps moisture out

Never had bad gas once since sea foam

 

[Trashy]

I syphon the majority out, and put in my mower. I leave hopefully enough to start it every month. As well grease, clean, and fix if needed

 

[Lund]

Every body seem's to do it a little different.
This is what i generally do.
-Wash the entire sled including engine compartment. Blow dry with compressed air, especially clutch area.
-Then i fill the fuel tank full with fuel and add fuel stabilizer. (can be had at any auto store).
-I start and run the sled for 4-5min. to get it up to temp. and allow fuel stabilizer to get into all important component's.
Optional -there is a fogging oil available if you wish to coat your cylinder's and engine internal's for extra protection, i do recommend it if your storing in a damp environment, like outside and for long term. I use it in my boat motor but not my sled's.
-Next i grease the entire machine.
-I drain the gear oil and replace with fresh oil.
-If you have a battery in the sled, remove it and keep a trickle charger on it during off season. Or low charge once a month.
-Check machine out for repairs needed and repair as required or make note for next season.
-lastly i cover and store the sled under a covered area. In my case in my shop.

Thing's to know about storing any sled, bike or gas powered equipment.
-empty fuel tank equal's an explosive scenario, even though empty, it's full of fumes.
-Full fuel tank equal's less fumes, safer storage. Keep under cover in a cool environment and the fuel will last alot longer and less evaporation will take place.
-running motor's empty for storage(draining carb's) your fuel system is design to have fuel in it at all time's, even during storage. Running dry and draining the system can lead to gasket failure due to drying out gasket's, rubber O-ring's and other critical component's. Including fuel lines and fuel pump diaphragm's cracking.

Once your sled is stored in this manner there is no need to start the motor till your ready to use it.

Hope that help's.

 

[woody_tobius_jr]

I always leave about 1/2 - 3/4 tank of fuel, put stabilizer in and run it for a bit. Then I'll pull the plugs and fog the motor. Pull the battery. Pull the clutch and give it a final cleaning. Put it on my sled hoist so there's no weight on the front or rear suspension. Tarp it up and start polishing on the boat ️


Sent from my iPad

 

[SUMMIT TREE]

Grease it, fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank and fill tank full so no room for moisture to condense in the tank, run it till stabilizer gets thru fuel system,if storing outside you could fog the cylinders with fogging oil,blow the clutches out with air, ( I would skip the spraying any type of lubricant in them though as a previous post mentioned), should be good to go next spring!

 

[Mike270412]

Grease it, fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank and fill tank full so no room for moisture to condense in the tank, run it till stabilizer gets thru fuel system,if storing outside you could fog the cylinders with fogging oil,blow the clutches out with air, ( I would skip the spraying any type of lubricant in them though as a previous post mentioned), should be good to go next spring!

Next spring? I'm gonna fire mine up next fall, lol...Sea Foam...use it.I clean mine and cover them and park in the corner.Usually fire them once a month or so just to fill the garage full of smoke.

 

[tex78]

Next spring? I'm gonna fire mine up next fall, lol...Sea Foam...use it.I clean mine and cover them and park in the corner.Usually fire them once a month or so just to fill the garage full of smoke.

X2, mmmmmmmmm 2 smoke

 

[fj40]

I remove my soft bags, and place moth balls in the engine compartment, on the running boards and on the seat In open containers.
I had some damage to my sled by mice.Also put steel wool in the exhaust pipe.

 

[snochuk]

Every body seem's to do it a little different.
This is what i generally do.
-Wash the entire sled including engine compartment. Blow dry with compressed air, especially clutch area.
-Then i fill the fuel tank full with fuel and add fuel stabilizer. (can be had at any auto store).
-I start and run the sled for 4-5min. to get it up to temp. and allow fuel stabilizer to get into all important component's.
Optional -there is a fogging oil available if you wish to coat your cylinder's and engine internal's for extra protection, i do recommend it if your storing in a damp environment, like outside and for long term. I use it in my boat motor but not my sled's.
-Next i grease the entire machine.
-I drain the gear oil and replace with fresh oil.
-If you have a battery in the sled, remove it and keep a trickle charger on it during off season. Or low charge once a month.
-Check machine out for repairs needed and repair as required or make note for next season.
-lastly i cover and store the sled under a covered area. In my case in my shop.

Thing's to know about storing any sled, bike or gas powered equipment.
-empty fuel tank equal's an explosive scenario, even though empty, it's full of fumes.
-Full fuel tank equal's less fumes, safer storage. Keep under cover in a cool environment and the fuel will last alot longer and less evaporation will take place.
-running motor's empty for storage(draining carb's) your fuel system is design to have fuel in it at all time's, even during storage. Running dry and draining the system can lead to gasket failure due to drying out gasket's, rubber O-ring's and other critical component's. Including fuel lines and fuel pump diaphragm's cracking.

Once your sled is stored in this manner there is no need to start the motor till your ready to use it.

Hope that help's.

That is what I do also, only thing extra is oily rag or wire sceen up the exhaust to keep mice out as my sleds sit in a non-mouse proof shop. Once you have had do deal with a mouse nest, wheat and corroded brass internals from mouse piss you will plug up that exhaust and on some the air box every year! Plus I start sleds 4-5 times in off season so nothing dries out.

 

[Lund]

BTW, never lube your clutches with anything. Inspect and dry clean only.

 

[Modman]

all of the above but also back the track tension off so it doesn't get flat spots at the idler wheels. No need to drain carbs on a 2014 indy, its injected. just dump some sea foam or stabil in, dump some startron in as well to take care of the ethanol, and run it. I oil the cylinders quick, and then IMO no need to start the sled in the summer. Typically every now and then when I am walking by (about once a month), I will roll the clutch a couple times just to move the oil on the cylinder walls and crank. If you have it in an area where there is high humidity you might consider starting it but not really the case anywhere in AB, unless you keep it outside under a tarp where it can't really breath. Spray any metal parts that might corrode with Spray Film, works awesome.

 

[vodoo103]

if you're storing outside or in an enclosed trailer, loosen oil & gas caps a touch (and mark them so you don't forget). pressure from hot & cold cycles are tough on the tanks and plastic threads.

 

[rusty]

Are there not breathers on the oil and fuel tanks?

 

[finkous]

unload from the trailer, ride it out behind the barn, cover with a tarp, walk away... half way thru summer, fire it up, grass drag across the yard to lube it up and put er back, wish for snow...

 

[sc800]

unload from the trailer, ride it out behind the barn, cover with a tarp, walk away... half way thru summer, fire it up, grass drag across the yard to lube it up and put er back, wish for snow...

Why I do not buy used sleds.