My New. “OLD”. M8

[Sledtillded]

Thanks to everyone for their input and feedback on my other thread. I actually pulled the trigger on a different M8 that popped up on Kijiji
I was going to look at an 08 163. And the night before I was heading to look at that one a 2011 153 Sno Pro showed up and long story short drove through a freezing rain Blizzard to pick it up. It has 1200 miles on it is pretty much mint and stock except for a can. Came with a cover still in the box, 3 jugs of oil and 3 new belts and new skags. Gotta love the extras when buying a used sled.
Now I have to start over to figure this beast out. Looks like the big difference Is the HO Motor and engine reverse.
Did they update the Diamond drive on this year or is it the same As in. Same type and size of bearings ?

I ordered a tether as suggested and some tank knee pads

The DD Has not been apart or oil changed. So that is the first thing on the agenda.

The only thing I have noticed so for with it is it’s not real easy to get it into reverse. The stupid button is hard
To get at with gloves on and once it does go in. I have had a hard time to get it out and push on it forever. Is this a trouble spot. A switch issue or something else ?
Thanks

 

[Bnorth]

Those are rad sleds. Sort of old tech by today's standard but look at the places the pro riders used to put those things and there's no denying they work just with a bit more effort. IMO the most reliable modern sled, I would only favour the XM as a preference for a used sled because the chassis is more modern but also more expensive. Good buy.

 

[Sledtillded]

Those are rad sleds. Sort of old tech by today's standard but look at the places the pro riders used to put those things and there's no denying they work just with a bit more effort. IMO the most reliable modern sled, I would only favour the XM as a preference for a used sled because the chassis is more modern but also more expensive. Good buy.

I have only ridden an M8 once In The mountains and found it more difficult to pull over and counter steer, is that what u mean by. “More effort”. They seem to have a wide front stance. I assume a narrower stance would help this chassis.

 

[Bnorth]

Yes, they're a bit wide in the front and they have a bit of a low centre of gravity. They are more of a conventional style chassis with the motor out front vs the newer rider forward positioning that tends to handle better. The m8 will still do it it just takes a bit more effort.

 

[FernieHawk]

Heard good things about the Alternative Impact 36” A-Arms. Might want to give those a go and sell the original A-Arms.

Also think about reinforcing where the steering rod connects to the tunnel/bulkhead. Kits are available.

Nice sled. I’m on my third M1000 chassis and will soon be listing a 2010 version of your sled. Rode the M8 for one year, but went back to the M1000 after a super low miles modded M1000 came up for sale last year.

 

[Rjjtcross8]

Good chassis and the Suzuki is a reliable mill. Anything you need for used parts can be easily found on kijiji as well.

 

[moyiesledhead]

Do the double row thrust bearing update to the Diamond Drive when you take it apart for service. There's a detailed thread on it somewhere on S&M. Huge weak spot on these machines. Otherwise they're pretty bullet proof. I've been running the same belt for so long on my 2010 I can't remember when I changed it last! :d

 

[Stg2Suby]

https://www.snowandmud.com/arctic-c....html?highlight=diamond+drive+bearing+upgrade

 

[Sledtillded]

Awesome !! Thanks for all the suggestions. And the link. That double row bearing sounds like a must do along with steering post brace

 

[FTP]

The steering post is not a must do. But if your a biugger guy and like tall bars then it might be something to consider. I rocked a 2010 m8 to 4300KM with no issues on the bulkhead. I got rid of the telescoper post and went with a Canada Sled parts chromoly T top post. I believe that is a must do. Then when you hit the bars they can fold instead of breaking the adjustable steering post. It happened to a buddys sled and had to do a RED Green fix on it and tow it out 50KM to the trucks!! If he had a t top and riser the riser would of folded and saved the post. BTW the 2010 and up m8 are great sleds,BTW they sidehill very consistent and hold a line very good with the stock front end. Just run it in the narrow setting and if you can get the float shocks revalved at Nextech. Huge difference in the ride quality.

 

[niner]

https://youtu.be/eqD5uTden8c

The old M chassis is awesome. I wouldn’t change the front end. The turns in the video are done with a stock front end. I had the Alternative impact 36” front end on my M and it was nice but expensive mod for little gains. My biggest gain for handling is opening up the foot wells. It’s a lot of work but it moves your feet forward about 4” so you can get your body more forward when sidehilling and uphill carves. There is a carbon fibre hood and lightweight seat on Kijiji for $500 that would drop some weight also. Nice purchase and enjoy the ride.

 

[gdhillon]

https://youtu.be/

The old M chassis is awesome. I wouldn’t change the front end. The turns in the video are done with a stock front end. I had the Alternative impact 36” front end on my M and it was nice but expensive mod for little gains. My biggest gain for handling is opening up the foot wells. It’s a lot of work but it moves your feet forward about 4” so you can get your body more forward when sidehilling and uphill carves. There is a carbon fibre hood and lightweight seat on Kijiji for $500 that would drop some weight also. Nice purchase and enjoy the ride.

Gnarly vid man!!

 

[mur190]

I put dirt bike style bars on my old m, back then RSI Made a kit to move the switch’s to where the key is for the hand and thumb warmers, and I purchased dirt bike style kill switches for the the kill and reverse switch (can usually find them in yellow and red to diff) also cleans the bars up nice to get rid of the big clusters, believe the throttle block was from power madd, and all I did was hardwired the headlights on high beam.

someone else may have better input..... that was a long time ago....

 

[catrutt]

My 2011 m 800 was the second best sled ever had . Replaced the D/D bearing and put 4800 mi with zero troubles.

 

[Langenhan]

Great sled !
Best mods I did to mine were
chop the rear snow flap
gripper skis
36” narrow kit
b+m boards
steering bushing onthe column

keep your power valves clean and adjusted,
run synthetic oil , maintain the diamond drive .

 

[DragonCFI]

I have a whole BDX kit still in the package for 07 and up with Reverse Part 50058 in Red Deer if you want it just gotta figure out how to get it to edmonton bought two when I did our 600

 

[Sledtillded]

Great sled !
Best mods I did to mine were
chop the rear snow flap
gripper skis
36” narrow kit
b+m boards
steering bushing onthe column

keep your power valves clean and adjusted,
run synthetic oil , maintain the diamond drive .

Thanks for this. When u say steering bushing in the column, is there an updated bushing that takes the slop out ? Mine only has 1000 mi on it and lots of play in the column.

 

[Rjjtcross8]

Thanks for this. When u say steering bushing in the column, is there an updated bushing that takes the slop out ? Mine only has 1000 mi on it and lots of play in the column.

I believe bdx makes the antislop kits still.

 

[Sledtillded]

I have a whole BDX kit still in the package for 07 and up with Reverse Part 50058 in Red Deer if you want it just gotta figure out how to get it to edmonton bought two when I did our 600

Thanks. But just picked up a full kit myself

 

[AGGRESIVEZEBRA]

Thanks for this. When u say steering bushing in the column, is there an updated bushing that takes the slop out ? Mine only has 1000 mi on it and lots of play in the column.

Yeah BDX makes a kit i have a couple at the shop (Specialty Motorsports) in spruce grove.