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- #61
Dawizman
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Thanks. Internet is my business, and that's just what we've used for a decade or so now. Works good enough, relatively cheap. Have 4 of them throughout the house as well.
My garage build
- Thread starter Dawizman
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MP Kid
Active VIP Member
Very nice build..!!
meierjn
Active VIP Member
Ditto! We use much more "spendy" enterprise stuff at work, but for home, the Ubiquiti stuff is great. I have a DMP, a couple of Flex switches, an 8-port switch with POE+, an AP, and a few of their cameras. I've slowly been moving everything can away from the wireless and back to wired where possible. I have my AP (U6-Long Range) mounted in the house in the ceiling and I still get great coverage throughout the yard and into my attached garage.
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- #64
Dawizman
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Finally got the rest of my parts in to finish up the boiler install. Started with the gas line, and then the heating loop. Once I got that fished it became apparent that I would need to move the gas line to have enough room for the domestic water connections.
Re-fit the gas line, and filled the system 50/50 with glycol. Just waiting for my gas fitter buddy to come give me a hand with the tie in at the meter now. Once that's complete I'll be able to pop the venting through the wall, and fire up the heat. I've got a 4000W electric heater in there right now, and my power bill next month scares me.
Re-fit the gas line, and filled the system 50/50 with glycol. Just waiting for my gas fitter buddy to come give me a hand with the tie in at the meter now. Once that's complete I'll be able to pop the venting through the wall, and fire up the heat. I've got a 4000W electric heater in there right now, and my power bill next month scares me.
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- #65
Dawizman
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Finally have heat!
My plumber neighbor was busy with work, and I was tired of waiting, so down to the Chinese Tire and picked up what I figured I would need for pipe. Hammered out the tie-in in about 45 minutes and had the gas back on in the house.
Then I spent about half hour with a bottle of soapy water checking every fitting. Everything on the garage side checked out good when I put it in last week and pressure tested at 40psi, but I wanted to check everything one more time.
After that I went through the deaeration process on the boiler, and got it up to pressure. Then it was time to fire it up with a jumper wire on the heat terminals. It got to work making heat right away. I realized quickly that it makes a lot of condensate. Possibly because of how humid it was outside. But I Jerry rigged up a couple pails for now until I get the drain plumbed in properly.
Out to the shop this morning at 6am after running the heat for about 12 hours. It was about 30° in there. I guess it works alright.
Next steps are get the drain plumbed in. Still waiting for my 900 liter tank to come in so I can get the domestic side of the plumbing complete. I went with a tank vs connecting to the house for 2 reasons. First, bringing a water line across and in to the basement in the house wasn't super appealing to me. The house having slab heat, and that particular foundation wall being occupied with hot water heater and a furnace made getting a pipe in now a real challenge. The second reason was the hard well water. We sit at about 550ppm TDS, and that makes washing anything a real pain. Water spots like crazy. For the sink and toilet, and washing cars, a 900l tank shouldn't be too much hassle for hauling water from town once in a while. If the next guy doesn't like it, filling the tank with a garden hose is an easy thing too.
My plumber neighbor was busy with work, and I was tired of waiting, so down to the Chinese Tire and picked up what I figured I would need for pipe. Hammered out the tie-in in about 45 minutes and had the gas back on in the house.
Then I spent about half hour with a bottle of soapy water checking every fitting. Everything on the garage side checked out good when I put it in last week and pressure tested at 40psi, but I wanted to check everything one more time.
After that I went through the deaeration process on the boiler, and got it up to pressure. Then it was time to fire it up with a jumper wire on the heat terminals. It got to work making heat right away. I realized quickly that it makes a lot of condensate. Possibly because of how humid it was outside. But I Jerry rigged up a couple pails for now until I get the drain plumbed in properly.
Out to the shop this morning at 6am after running the heat for about 12 hours. It was about 30° in there. I guess it works alright.
Next steps are get the drain plumbed in. Still waiting for my 900 liter tank to come in so I can get the domestic side of the plumbing complete. I went with a tank vs connecting to the house for 2 reasons. First, bringing a water line across and in to the basement in the house wasn't super appealing to me. The house having slab heat, and that particular foundation wall being occupied with hot water heater and a furnace made getting a pipe in now a real challenge. The second reason was the hard well water. We sit at about 550ppm TDS, and that makes washing anything a real pain. Water spots like crazy. For the sink and toilet, and washing cars, a 900l tank shouldn't be too much hassle for hauling water from town once in a while. If the next guy doesn't like it, filling the tank with a garden hose is an easy thing too.
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- #67
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
It's on my list of things to look at now. I have next to no experience with these systems, and I'm learning as I go with a fair bit of research along the way. I'm not sure how much makeup is needed on a regular basis. I'm expecting the expansion tank to handle the system expansion under heat, but it's a fairly narrow operating range on my boiler @ 20-30psi. My math says thermal expansion in my system should only be around 0.7 gallons on an 80° temperature delta. I'm going to give it a bit of time and see how much fluid I'm losing / making up in a cycle.
pano-dude
Active VIP Member
They are cheap and will guarantee the system doesn't run low on glycol. It really helps on start up when bleeding air out.
Nothing worse than having a system shut down on the low water cutoff and then everything cools down and have to bleed the system.
Good air vents help too, I like the spiral vent style.
Caper11
Active VIP Member
I am not a fan of infloor heat as the main source in a garage. Any plans of a dehumidifier installed in there, or a heater that will circulate air?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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- #70
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
I went with one of the little watts vents. But ya, I'm looking at the little axiom feed units and the price isn't bad.
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- #71
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
Circulate air as in drawing in fresh air?
I'll be putting a decent size ceiling fan up in the high bay, and I am looking at rigging up the bathroom fan on a humidity sensor to manage humidity should it become an issue.
I'm quite looking forward to working off the heated slab this winter, and my use doesn't involve a regular in and out with snow covered vehicles. The snow plow will be parked in the attached garage along with the wife's daily driver. The summer cars, sleds, and my truck will live in the detached. The truck only really gets used in the winter for hauling sleds, so it'll come back snow covered after a trip. My company truck can park out in the cold. I'll see how big of an issue the humidity become in a month or two.
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Caper11
Active VIP Member
No, a dehumidifier for the amount of moisture a snow covered vehicle causes when the floor is wet, even bringing my sled inside causes a lot of moisture, but I keep the garage at 17deg.
I tried fans, etc and the dehumidifier works the best.
My wife’s vehicle goes in every night and if I don’t run a dehumidifier the garage door, and the windows will be dripping with water. I talked to a few heating contractors, and they told me that’s the issue with having the infloor as the main source of heat.
One contractor said he put a forced air heater in his garage so he could lower the floor temp.
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I tried fans, etc and the dehumidifier works the best.
My wife’s vehicle goes in every night and if I don’t run a dehumidifier the garage door, and the windows will be dripping with water. I talked to a few heating contractors, and they told me that’s the issue with having the infloor as the main source of heat.
One contractor said he put a forced air heater in his garage so he could lower the floor temp.
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maxwell
Active VIP Member
ive got the axiom feeders in my heated slab shops. I dont know where the glycol goes and maybe i dont want to know but they do require topping up once in a while, maybe once a year.
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- #74
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
Yeah fair enough. We have an old system at our shop. Place was built in the 80s and has rubber lines in the floor. They are failing slowly. Our make-up is from the city water supply, and it seems like we still our 2000 gallon sump once per winter.
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- #75
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
Something I discovered already - with the system pressure set too high when cold, the expansion will cause the relief valve to bleed fluid off, and then drop the pressure down too low when it cools off. My boiler minimum is 20psi for it to cut in - and 30 psi is the relief pressure. My first run I aired the pressure tank up to 28psi and filled the system to that pressure. It worked fine - but it bled a lot off out of the relief valve. I've since set the tank to 20psi and set my make up auto feed valve to 20psi. I'm hoping that this will eliminate and need for make-up. If I still see too much bleed-off happening, I may look at up sizing my expansion tank to allow more volume and prevent bleed off.
pipes
Active VIP Member
silly question. Why the coupleing in the middle of you swing joint on you garage end of the gas tie in?
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- #77
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
Measured everything, ordered what I thought I'd need. Got my order. Discovered I ordered 3/4" x 12" nipples instead of 1". Couldn't get 1" x 12" in town, so I made 2 6" work.
ABMax24
Active VIP Member
That's normal and not related to humidity, you'll produce about a gallon of condensate per hour at 100,000 BTU output. So a 200k BTU boiler will produce 2 gallons per hour at full output.
So you'll have about 2.5 hours before you fill your bucket trying to heat that slab up from cold.
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- #79
Dawizman
Active VIP Member
Good to know. All the appliances in the house are plumbed in to the floor drain, so I never really noticed. Permanent drain will be in by the weekend, so it'll be good to go before it gets too cold.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
these little guys work awesome if you need to get the condensate to another location
Amazon product ASIN B000CCMUCM
Amazon product ASIN B000CCMUCM
