Must have fixes for the 2019 alpha one?

[Randy J]

Just purchased one looking for info on what I absolutely must do to this sled and what should be done down the road? Tks in advance

 

[JMCX]

How many km on this rocket?

Keep an eye on your water temperature. The Alpha likes to heat up on the trail. The factory scratchers are very effective though. If you're into jumping a rail brace might be a good idea.

7000km on mine. You'll have fun spanking on anything thats un boosted.

 

[Clode]

Keep a close eye on the primary clutch, check for cracks after every ride

 

[Dawizman]

The rail through bolt for the rear scissor arm is a good idea.

Make sure the front track shock has enough pressure that you're not bottoming the rail out.

Inspect and clean the primary clutch regularly. They tend to form cracks on the sheaves and once this happens, carnage is imminent.

Make sure the nose cone seal is installed properly. They like to hook, and roll, and then you suck snow directly into the engine. I go a step further and disassemble the airbox, and RTV all the seams. I then use dielectric grease on the gasket when it goes back together. Knock on wood, no issues yet.

 

[niner]

Everyone’s must have is a little different….good advice on the basics so far. My build will be getting a new must have here soon. Pics to come.

2019 Alpha Omega

So it begins. Teaming up with dragonweld28 (Benny) to build a wicked Alpha. Here’s a small list we are starting with. -titanium polished muffler - stainless Y-pipe -bdx magnesium chaincase cover -clutch kit -box running boards -superlite brake rotor -prolite front bumper -prolite front end...

www.snowandmud.com

 

[mountianguy]

Put the protec air intake on from BDX

 

[tmo1620]

Heavy duty chain case guard or a belt drive. That magnesium chain case is cover is weak as hell, one minor smack and your oil is everywhere and the ride is done.


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[tmo1620]

Two great fixes for the alpha


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[Bnorth]

Good front bumper - a big tree hit leaves you sucking snow straight into the throttle bodies without a real bumper.
BDX protectair - airbox is leaky so seal it up but add one of these for insurance too
Dielectric grease on the airbox seal as said above
Keep an eye on the primary for cracks especially on the sheaves as said above
Keep an eye on the front suspension arm for cracks
Keep an eye on the steering post for cracks
Know how to unplug the TSS so if your sled won't start all of a sudden in the backcountry you can deal with it
Keep coolant topped up, they are sensitive to low coolant levels
Dielectric grease all electrical connections
Check bolt torque on the overstructure where the aluminum spars mount to the composite pieces
Check powervalve bracket for cracks

I love my Alpha but it's had a lot of chit break.

 

[gedakbx]

Sounds like a lot of work for an old guy LOL

 

[Randy J]

Two great fixes for the alpha


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I have both of those fixes but mine has Tks belt drive. Do you have to run more deflection with the heat created by the turbo? Also is there a good aftermarket belt that works good on turbos they want $345 for the factory cat belt this year? I was more concerned with the rail bracing through bolt rear sizor and the clutch Tks.

 

[deaner]

I have both of those fixes but mine has Tks belt drive. Do you have to run more deflection with the heat created by the turbo? Also is there a good aftermarket belt that works good on turbos they want $345 for the factory cat belt this year? I was more concerned with the rail bracing through bolt rear sizor and the clutch Tks.

$345?????? That is INSANE!

 

[LMLCHEVY]

$345?????? That is INSANE!

Ooooff glad I have 2 spares already.

 

[MK4TDI]

I have both of those fixes but mine has Tks belt drive. Do you have to run more deflection with the heat created by the turbo? Also is there a good aftermarket belt that works good on turbos they want $345 for the factory cat belt this year? I was more concerned with the rail bracing through bolt rear sizor and the clutch Tks.

Have you tried the Yamaha version ? My sidewinder belts are still $120... maybe the 2-stroke ones are similar.

 

[tmo1620]

I have both of those fixes but mine has Tks belt drive. Do you have to run more deflection with the heat created by the turbo? Also is there a good aftermarket belt that works good on turbos they want $345 for the factory cat belt this year? I was more concerned with the rail bracing through bolt rear sizor and the clutch Tks.

I don’t, I run it the same deflection I ran on the stocker I had previous. I also have completely vented panels so I don’t build a ton of heat under the hood. I upgraded my rear scissor to the ZRP with through bolt. I’m not gonna brace the rail. I don’t think they are that weak, I think most failures are improper shock settings and big jumpers. That’s insane for a belt


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[gedakbx]

tmo. He is referring to the belt drive tension not the drive belt deflection. On or turbo Axys we run the belt drive belt looser than normal to accommodate chassis growth when everything heats up.

 

[drew562]

tmo. He is referring to the belt drive tension not the drive belt deflection. On or turbo Axys we run the belt drive belt looser than normal to accommodate chassis growth when everything heats up.

Speaking of belts 05-m7 cats had Velcro for the spare belt. will fit through the clutch cover and you can keep your spare belt on your alpha on top of your clutches

 

[tmo1620]

tmo. He is referring to the belt drive tension not the drive belt deflection. On or turbo Axys we run the belt drive belt looser than normal to accommodate chassis growth when everything heats up.

So am I, I run it the same, haven’t had an issue with that at all and asked specialty about it and they said run it the same, they installed and set it up as well and turbo was already on there. Like I said my panels are completely vented both sides, lots of air flow through, it really doesn’t get that hot. I run out of steam before it gets ridden long and hard enough to get that hot. I need a beverage and a break before the sled does.


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[ippielb]

Canada sled parts steering bushings
Rubber bumper on the limiting strap bolt
through bolt for the rear scissor
silicone the air box and the upper intake plenum
clean the clutch after every other ride and inspect for cracks and make sure spider rollers are good
lower steering post bracket where coils mount to will crack the tabs off
ECU heat shield will crack the tabs off
belly pan rubber isolator for the pipe on the clutch belly pan at the 1/4 turn likes to pop off
stock exhaust can likes to melt the side panel half way up
aluminum lower gear in chaincase so change oil often
track tension needs to be a little tight to prevent the track clips from cutting down the sliders in set up snow
front track shock lower bolt likes to strip out
rear wheels on skid like to break off and shoot forward stabbing the track, held on with rivets and glue.
top cap on rail like to pop off, held on with glue and rivets
dont use dyed fuel in okonogan(sicamous, kamloops, vernon kelowna etc) i lost a lower connecting rod bearing,
put a little APV gold(blue cat 2 stroke oil) in gas tank every fill
bulkhead likes to crack in the openings where the tie rods come out, you have to remove the rubber boots to see this. Usually at the top opening towards the rear of the sled
tunnel likes to crack in the right footwell at one of the chaincase bolts
steering post will ultimately fail

I have had everything above happen to me, or fixed the above.

 

[FranktheTank]

Canada sled parts steering bushings
Rubber bumper on the limiting strap bolt
through bolt for the rear scissor
silicone the air box and the upper intake plenum
clean the clutch after every other ride and inspect for cracks and make sure spider rollers are good
lower steering post bracket where coils mount to will crack the tabs off
ECU heat shield will crack the tabs off
belly pan rubber isolator for the pipe on the clutch belly pan at the 1/4 turn likes to pop off
stock exhaust can likes to melt the side panel half way up
aluminum lower gear in chaincase so change oil often
track tension needs to be a little tight to prevent the track clips from cutting down the sliders in set up snow
front track shock lower bolt likes to strip out
rear wheels on skid like to break off and shoot forward stabbing the track, held on with rivets and glue.
top cap on rail like to pop off, held on with glue and rivets
dont use dyed fuel in okonogan(sicamous, kamloops, vernon kelowna etc) i lost a lower connecting rod bearing,
put a little APV gold(blue cat 2 stroke oil) in gas tank every fill
bulkhead likes to crack in the openings where the tie rods come out, you have to remove the rubber boots to see this. Usually at the top opening towards the rear of the sled
tunnel likes to crack in the right footwell at one of the chaincase bolts
steering post will ultimately fail

I have had everything above happen to me, or fixed the above.

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