Hey everyone, Looking for some help. I have a 600 mountain cat '03. The sled runns fine untill you hit 7000 rpm. Then it feels like someone grabs the back of the sled... It just dies and boggs, engine still runs just has no power or pick up. If you have the throttle past 1/2 it does the same thing at that rpm. range. It will only run good up to that rpm. I had it at the dealer and they told me it runs fine and cannot find anything wrong with it.. Does anyone have any ideas ? I had it at the dealer before for the same issue, and they adjusted the APV valves and checked the servos, and they said everything was good.. Any ideas would be appreciated, Thanx.
Mountain cat bogging.
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I will check that. I also thought it may be clutching. The sled does not engage untill 4200. Buddy of mine has the same sled his starts at 32-3400. This just sucks the deaker had it for 4 weeks , said everything was good, took it out last weekend to the lake to test it out, and it had the same problem it did when I dropped it off. It will sure make the last trip this weekend not fun at all.... I mayhave to cancel, the sled runs like junk..
OLIVE DRAB DEAN
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Carb or efi?
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mxz sledhead
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It's almost sounds like reed problem the fuel is not atomizing Iam not sure if efi have reeds or not just a thought
Junior Highmark
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Rev's all the way
got pistons and rings?
OLIVE DRAB DEAN
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Try pulling your fuel pump and clean the foot valves, it's not that big of a job. They can get gummed up and stick the foot valve. I got a 03 800 efi and that smarten'd it up.
OLIVE DRAB DEAN
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Trouble shoot the easy stuff first before you go to the extreme. Works for me. Good luck.
snotterite
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M7ZR6
Active member
Try pulling your power valves out and cleaning them. Sounds like they are not opening all of the way. If they haven't been cleaned before chances are that they will be pretty gummed up. Your dealer should have done that when the checked your servo motor for proper operation but I bet they didn't. May not be the problem but is the easiest and cheapest thing to try first.
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powderpusher
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I would pull clutch,sounds as if the clutch is binding ,check out all the bushings where the clutch slides back and forth to close as ive had the same problem on both my polaris rmk 600 and a powder special it turned out to be a worn bushing not letting the clutch to engage properly ,i replaced the clutches on both sleds worked fine after
ttpowersports
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could be any one or a number of the things suggested, heres my two bits-
i agree to eliminate the easy stuff first, so heres what i would try.
- drive clutch(motor) put a black felt pen mark from the outside edge down to the middle of the clutch where the shaft is _inbetween the sheaves- rev up motor if the drive clutch is working properly it should take the marker off- if not it could be a worn weight or bushing- dpending on mileage and when you last serviced your clutch.( u should check your clutch every season at the least or every 1500km or sooner)
- make sure ur secondary clutch (closest to the bars) is shifting out and that your belt is riding slightly above the edge of the secondary ( 1/8 inch or so)
u could have worn rollers, loose bushing on the outer sheave, which both could cause eratic shifting and hamper performance.
- cleaning power valves is always a good idea-if there gummed up it could be a cause of poor oil what do you use? make sure you have the specs and info to reinstall and reset power valve cables, so there at set correctly-
- could be a reed pedal on your reed valves broken off or worn which would cause excessive fueling, and typically make the unit work better at higher rpm as it is getting more air. ** this is a bit harder to check as you have to remove more parts and pieces.
- easy quick and cheap thing to also check is the plastic washers on the top of and bottom of the pin that holds your throttle lever on (throttle over ride- " t.o.r.s. switch) as this 89cent washers can create havoc if worn.
- check spark plug boots and caps for continuity- with an ohm meter.
Good luck, i always look at the list and pick the easiest first.:d:d:d:d
T
i agree to eliminate the easy stuff first, so heres what i would try.
- drive clutch(motor) put a black felt pen mark from the outside edge down to the middle of the clutch where the shaft is _inbetween the sheaves- rev up motor if the drive clutch is working properly it should take the marker off- if not it could be a worn weight or bushing- dpending on mileage and when you last serviced your clutch.( u should check your clutch every season at the least or every 1500km or sooner)
- make sure ur secondary clutch (closest to the bars) is shifting out and that your belt is riding slightly above the edge of the secondary ( 1/8 inch or so)
u could have worn rollers, loose bushing on the outer sheave, which both could cause eratic shifting and hamper performance.
- cleaning power valves is always a good idea-if there gummed up it could be a cause of poor oil what do you use? make sure you have the specs and info to reinstall and reset power valve cables, so there at set correctly-
- could be a reed pedal on your reed valves broken off or worn which would cause excessive fueling, and typically make the unit work better at higher rpm as it is getting more air. ** this is a bit harder to check as you have to remove more parts and pieces.
- easy quick and cheap thing to also check is the plastic washers on the top of and bottom of the pin that holds your throttle lever on (throttle over ride- " t.o.r.s. switch) as this 89cent washers can create havoc if worn.
- check spark plug boots and caps for continuity- with an ohm meter.
Good luck, i always look at the list and pick the easiest first.:d:d:d:d
T
ttpowersports
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