Mega Cab upgrade

OVERKILL 19

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Well finally bit the bullet and ordered my H&S Mini Maxx,4" SS TBE ,shim kit egr/cooler delete kit and Mega Cannon CAI. Also doing the front end at same time , dodge steering linkage upgrade, steering box brace, and Carli steering stabilizer. Any tips tools for the install?
 
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MATTIAC

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Right angle drill works good for tapping the manifold pre turbo for EGT probe. Drill and tap with grease to catch shavings. Cold air is easy install. Egr delete also easy to do. There is a sticky in cumminsforum for egr removal instructions if you get stumped.


To do the exhaust you will need to drop the tranny cross member to remove down pipe. If you don't care about down pipe cut it in half with a saw zall and don't touch the cross member
 

OVERKILL 19

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I have a 2 post lift so I think the pipe shouldn't be to bad. I had planed on pulling the tranny x member. I have a small air drill and quit aces stubby drill bits. I had planned on pre turbo pyro. Thanks
 

OVERKILL 19

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I hope I made the right choice with the mini maxx. Over the black maxx. I thought the mini would be a little less dominating but hope the mini isn't too small
 

OVERKILL 19

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dont forget a small magnet to stick down in the drilled part to get filings out

Thanks I will I had planned on firing the truck up just before drilling trough to push the shavings out!
 

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The mini max is fine. The black maxx is also fine. Some guys recommend drilling and tapping while the truck idles. But if you happen to break the bit your turbo is pooched.
Here's what my black maxx looks like.

Edit. I think that is actually my old bully dog pmt. Pre black maxx days. Still looks the same. You get the idea.

one.jpg
 

Cyle

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Thanks I will I had planned on firing the truck up just before drilling trough to push the shavings out!

Whatever you do, do not drill with the truck running. You are playing russian roulette with your turbo/engine if you do. A one in a million chance but if that drill bit snaps, bye bye turbo. Drill dry, then clean out bit and hole just before you break threw put some grease on drill bit, then vacuum out the hole.

It's the only way to do it short of removing the manifold or turbo.
 

OVERKILL 19

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The mini max is fine. The black maxx is also fine. Some guys recommend drilling and tapping while the truck idles. But if you happen to break the bit your turbo is pooched.
Here's what my black maxx looks like.

Edit. I think that is actually my old bully dog pmt. Pre black maxx days. Still looks the same. You get the idea.

one.jpg

I only went mini as I thought it being smaller alittle less chance of some clown stealing it.
As for the debate over running or not running while drlling tapping know the deal but to me it makes more sense to have that pressure pushing the crap out. I know this is how we did it back when I worked at 4 wheel parts. But that was 15 years ago!
 

OVERKILL 19

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Well finally bit the bullet and ordered my H&S Mini Maxx,4" SS TBE ,shim kit egr/cooler delete kit and Mega Cannon CAI. Also doing the front end at same time , dodge steering linkage upgrade, steering box brace, and Carli steering stabilizer. Any tips tools for the install?

Anyone know the torq spec for the tie rod ends, my manual has not made it here yet? Thx
 

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if u drill before ur turbo and have it running u running a huge chance screwing ure turbo so invest 2bucks in a magnet and use ure vacuum and ure safe to go
 

FossY

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as for ure tirods (did u buy the upgradet version ???)

u got an impact ???

stap2 and let her rip till it doesnt turn any more (100ish fp)

or u really do it by the book :) pansy way

INSTALLATION
1. Align reference marks and install pitman arm.
2. Install the lock washer and retaining nut on the pitman
shaft and tighten nut to 251 N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drag link (1) to the pitman arm (5). Install
the nut (4) and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Then
an additional 90°.
4. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle to the
surface. Center steering wheel and adjust toe,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. After adjustment tighten tie rod adjustment sleeve
clamp bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Position the clamp on the sleeve so retaining
bolt is located on the bottom side of the
sleeve

here trackbar as well

INSTALLATION
1. Install the track bar (1).
2. Install the new bolts (2) and nuts (3). Tighten to
203 N·m (150 ft lbs.).
3. Remove the supports under the axle and lower the
vehicle to the ground.
 
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OVERKILL 19

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as for ure tirods (did u buy the upgradet version ???)

u got an impact ???

stap2 and let her rip till it doesnt turn any more (100ish fp)

or u really do it by the book :) pansy way

INSTALLATION
1. Align reference marks and install pitman arm.
2. Install the lock washer and retaining nut on the pitman
shaft and tighten nut to 251 N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drag link (1) to the pitman arm (5). Install
the nut (4) and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Then
an additional 90°.
4. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle to the
surface. Center steering wheel and adjust toe,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. After adjustment tighten tie rod adjustment sleeve
clamp bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Position the clamp on the sleeve so retaining
bolt is located on the bottom side of the
sleeve

here trackbar as well

INSTALLATION
1. Install the track bar (1).
2. Install the new bolts (2) and nuts (3). Tighten to
203 N·m (150 ft lbs.).
3. Remove the supports under the axle and lower the
vehicle to the ground.

Yes i went to the "T" style from the "Y" version which according to Dodge has no issues??? Which makes sense way they came out with the "T" style. Most people make a part two different ways because they both work so well!
 

OVERKILL 19

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if u drill before ur turbo and have it running u running a huge chance screwing ure turbo so invest 2bucks in a magnet and use ure vacuum and ure safe to go

If you look through the Dodge fourm most do it with it running but not all. I find it funny how some get sooo fired up about it, and the guys who did it running all say it was no problem. H&S says do it running. I think I might try the pressure up from the back end trick as I like the idea of pressure blowing out the chips IMO.
 

FossY

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im mechanic for dodge so just trying to tell u that with 2dollars spend for a magnet u dont have to worry about anything
 

Rockwerx

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If you look through the Dodge fourm most do it with it running but not all. I find it funny how some get sooo fired up about it, and the guys who did it running all say it was no problem. H&S says do it running. I think I might try the pressure up from the back end trick as I like the idea of pressure blowing out the chips IMO.

I would not do that as it can blow metal chips into a cylinder/cylinders that has the valves open. Here is what you can do to make sure nothing gets into the turbo.

Take off the EGR cooler (if you have not done it to delete the egr system) and then you can stick a rag and or a magnet over top of the turbo through one of the ports. Then use a dry drill bit to bore just about all the way through the manifold. Use a dry bit so that the drill bit flutes pull the shavings away like it was designed to do. I also used a vacuum with a small tip at the drill tip while I have done this and not had any trouble with wayward metal chips. With the EGR cooler off you can also check the position of the probe after you have tapped it and installed it.

Good luck with your mods!
 

MATTIAC

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ive done both my 6.7's with the method i suggested without a hitch. i also never like to have my hands around a running engine. thats just me though
 

OVERKILL 19

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im mechanic for dodge so just trying to tell u that with 2dollars spend for a magnet u dont have to worry about anything

I appreaciate the help and knowledge, wasnt directing anything at you, just the Dodge fourms in general. I just get a kick out some of those guys get so pissed if you try to skin the cat a different way..not their way. learning new ways is a good thing!

I've got every magnet on a stick that the Snap-on truck sells as I tend to drop allot of chit!
Thanks

P.S what r you seeing most guys run for pipe size? I had a 5"TBE ordered but changed it to 4" TBE, just cause I dont think I would gain anything but more noise. I don’t plan on more than 600HP. And the pipe was cheap so I figured if I want to try a 5" later it would be no biggie. My dyna single and y pipe for my sled was more than the 5"....?
 
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