Just wondering what I need to get out of the hole faster? Secondary I'm running the D&D torsional CR 42/36 with purple spring, primary is a titanium 0646-379, 75 grams weights, and 52/68 gears, running single pipe with MBRP can but have D&D can on order. Running between 3000-6000 feet and pulling approx 8000 rpm. Running D&D 901 big bore kit, feels a little sluggish out of the hole.
M8 slow out of hole
- Thread starter avossler
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sledman700
Member
How's your belt deflection? Mine was out and my sled felt sluggish out of the hole i adjusted the belt and it made all the difference.
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Turbofreak
Active member
You know those seregated top cogs on your belt???...well those should be sticking up over your secondary or + 2 or 3mm.
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RUDY
Active VIP Member
check belt deflection take a straight edge across the primary and secondary.Push the belt down in the middle it should be 1 1/8"-1 1/4" to the bottom of the straight edge.If you have to raise it you'll have to add a shim to the secondary.
I find mind seems to have a hiccup off the line then she rips pretty good
I find mind seems to have a hiccup off the line then she rips pretty good
Turbofreak
Active member
Yeah your right welder...that's the proper way to check it. But at a glance for a general rule if those top cogs are out of your secondary sheave you should be good. Avossler pm Modman, he knows alot about clutching. If your deflection is good and fuel delivery is fine then you might have to change out your primary spring to match your weights with your helix and so on but like i said modman knows more about this than me. Also Glen at spin-drift powersports in McBride could shed some light on this as well.
mphfreak
Active VIP Member
Do u have the powerclaw track or the camoplast challenger 2.25? Theres a big difference there
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mphfreak
Active VIP Member
Does it hit 8000 rpm as soon as you nail it or does it come to like 7500 and creep to 8000? Is the engine loading up? Do you have a fuel controller? Are you getting beat by other sleds or does it feel sluggish.
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- #12
Well I might be running a little rich but don't think it is loading up, I have a boondocker fuel controller and a A/F monitor. I'm going to remove the MBRP can and put the stock one back on, maybe I don't have enough back pressure for a BB. I guess we will find out this weekend, I also think it was just way to warm last week while I was riding 11 Celsius.
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Al "ley Cat"
Active VIP Member
If you have the D+D big bore kit you must have a boomdocker box . I have a friend who this season bought a o5 M7 with D+D big bore kit. It seems he is haveing trouble trying to get the right settings for his rideing style.He is still playing with the settings and is slowly geting there.I think that mite be part of your problem,?
Turbofreak
Active member
lol...is he missing somethin here?
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- #16
I have a boondocker kit, NGK Air/fuel monitor, V-force 3 reeds, K&N air intake, lots of vents. Took it out for a ride today seems little better off the line since I put the stock can on but seems to fall on its face in the mid range. I think it is just running way to rich yet, just have to keep tweaking on the boondocker box.
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Turbofreak
Active member
Avossler pm SNOW JW of code red performance...this guy is excellent to talk to and is willing to go out of his way to help a brother out. He just lined me up on fuel #'s for my turbo and im sure he's got advice for that bb set-up your runnin too.
mphfreak
Active VIP Member
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Originally Posted by avossler
Took my sled out today seems to run better out of hole since I put my stock can back on, seems to fall on its face mid range. It does his 8000 as soon as I nail it and it does go to about 7500 and climbs back up. What does that mean?
Re:
Crank your secondary spring pressure up. If you got Dand D purple spring go up a hole or two. Go until u get your rpm back. You are running a 42 start that is aggressive for your sled, even if it is a big bore. My m1000 with 190 hp I have a cat green with tons of spring force to hold a straight 40 @ 9500 feet. At 2000 feet i leave the secondary helix a straigght 40 and put a cat yellow with less spring tension. I run the springs until I get my Rpm im looking for. If you are dropping Rpm after you come out of hole the secondary is shifting too fast. the more spring pressure you give it, the longer it will take to shift, keeping your rpm constant.
Originally Posted by avossler
Took my sled out today seems to run better out of hole since I put my stock can back on, seems to fall on its face mid range. It does his 8000 as soon as I nail it and it does go to about 7500 and climbs back up. What does that mean?
Re:
Crank your secondary spring pressure up. If you got Dand D purple spring go up a hole or two. Go until u get your rpm back. You are running a 42 start that is aggressive for your sled, even if it is a big bore. My m1000 with 190 hp I have a cat green with tons of spring force to hold a straight 40 @ 9500 feet. At 2000 feet i leave the secondary helix a straigght 40 and put a cat yellow with less spring tension. I run the springs until I get my Rpm im looking for. If you are dropping Rpm after you come out of hole the secondary is shifting too fast. the more spring pressure you give it, the longer it will take to shift, keeping your rpm constant.
Al "ley Cat"
Active VIP Member
dont know if you got my message.the buddy has his box set at ; 3000 rpm 1 low 0 mid 5 hi 5000 rpm 0 low 1 mid 5 hi 6700 rpm 10 lo 9 mid 1` hi 7300 2 lo 3 mid 10 hi 7800 rpm 15 lo 10 mid 12 hi 8250 rpm 20 lo 15 mid 24 hi 8700 20 lo 15 mid 60 hi He also took out the D+D primary spring (Black ) 190-330 and put in a SLP (Green Pink) 160-340 he says he gets alot better back shifting. You could also go to the D+D web page . They have a tech page for the boom box to help with settings We will be going to McBride this weekend.Will let you know how his sled runs.This trip will be the make or break for him to keep the sled.
mphfreak
Active VIP Member
any luck with it?
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