dezmitchell
Active VIP Member
Anyone do this ? i took off my stock air box and literly poored out oil motor is getting WAY to much ...I want to be sure tho cause i dont want to burn down my motor
M7 turning down oil injection
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Marvin SK
Member
Done this many times on M8's and M7's. You should have an idea what your ratio is but all the ones I have done came from the factory at about 32:1 way to rich.. Pop of the oil linkage shaft, loosen lock nut and turn the shaft out 3-4 full turns. Remember the shaft needs to be longer when you are done. Each full turn is close to a 5:1 change. Hope this helps
I did this to both my 06 sabrecat 700 and my 07 M8. After monitoring the fuel and oil consumtion ratios both sleds came from the factory at 32:1
I lenghtened or losened the rods on both sleds one turn. That brought my ratios to 40:1 after turning them out a second turn they were at 48:1. That is where I left them. I have 3000K's on the sabrecat and a 1000 on the M. We did the same to my buddies 06 X-Fire 7. His power valves stoped gumming up, his sled preforms better and he does not leave black streaks of oil in the snow anymore. Each turn was 8:1 for me.
I lenghtened or losened the rods on both sleds one turn. That brought my ratios to 40:1 after turning them out a second turn they were at 48:1. That is where I left them. I have 3000K's on the sabrecat and a 1000 on the M. We did the same to my buddies 06 X-Fire 7. His power valves stoped gumming up, his sled preforms better and he does not leave black streaks of oil in the snow anymore. Each turn was 8:1 for me.
Firefly
Active VIP Member
Good thread Dez! I've been curious what my ratio is. I will monitor my oil to gas ratio and adjust like the boys said, I know i'm running rich. (2006 M7 :d)
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dezmitchell
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How does one find out there oil fuel ratio
It seems that AC likes to run the oil pumps very rich. Many people are calculating oil usage near 32 to 1 from the factory. 50 to 1 seems to be the most agreed upon "correct" ratio.
1) Fill your fuel tank to the level you would normally fill to. Make a mental note of where this mark is. You'll need to re-fill it as close to this level as possible later on.
2) Fill your oil reservoir and mark the oil level (using a sharpie pen or similar) on the oil fill neck.
3) Ride your sled like you normally would and under average conditions. (You don't want to be breaking trail all day or riding like your grandma if that's not how you'd normally ride.) You'll want this to be a good ride of at least 70-90 Km's or more.
4) At the next fuel stop, pay close attention and fill your gas and oil back to the same level as you did in step 1.
5) Take the volume of gas in liters divided by the amount of oil consumed in litres, for example the first time I went out I burnt 38 litres of gas and 1.2 litres of Oil: 38 divided by 1.2= 31.6 so your ratio is is 32:1
1) Fill your fuel tank to the level you would normally fill to. Make a mental note of where this mark is. You'll need to re-fill it as close to this level as possible later on.
2) Fill your oil reservoir and mark the oil level (using a sharpie pen or similar) on the oil fill neck.
3) Ride your sled like you normally would and under average conditions. (You don't want to be breaking trail all day or riding like your grandma if that's not how you'd normally ride.) You'll want this to be a good ride of at least 70-90 Km's or more.
4) At the next fuel stop, pay close attention and fill your gas and oil back to the same level as you did in step 1.
5) Take the volume of gas in liters divided by the amount of oil consumed in litres, for example the first time I went out I burnt 38 litres of gas and 1.2 litres of Oil: 38 divided by 1.2= 31.6 so your ratio is is 32:1
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dezmitchell
Active VIP Member
Right on thankyou so im guna turn it down one rotation for sure
Rucky
Active VIP Member
No one has made the connection that very very few reasonably stock M7's and M8's need to be rebuilt inside of 4000 km... Coincidence, I think not....
i have 2 m6"s i bougth last year an o5 and 06 and was wondering if this is comon with then two and if the process is the same for dialing down oil , i never realy payed any attention to how much they were using but it seamed like they all like oil my 03 f5 is a oil suckin pig that will definetly be gettin dialed down
klswine
Active VIP Member
Anyone got some pics to help?
maxwell
Active VIP Member
Marvin SK
Member
They are like that from factory as there are going to be people who will put junk oil in them that wont flow at -30..... Good Synthetic oil and you are still really safe at 50:1. and that is still lots of lube for bottom end. Due to the pump style you are only really cleaning up the bottom end and idle . After 3/4 to full throttle the pump is wide open inside anyway.
Here are a few pics!
There are a couple of different ways to go about getting the oil pump rod off and out of the sled. This is my way. (Some people manage to get the rod off from the topside, without removing the bellypan but I can't seem to do it.)
1) Remove the belly pan from under the engine - 10 T-20 Torx screws hold it on. You can either crawl underneath the sled.
2) Locate the oil pump rod. It's connected to the throttle body linkage and to the oil pump. Here's a drawing showing it's orientation to the throttle body linkage. Make a mental note of how the rod is positioned and where it attaches at both ends.
3) Using a flat screwdriver, carefully "pop" the oil pump rod off the oil pump arm. It's just a plastic collar than fits over a ridge on the pin in the arm.
4) Hold the throttle lever wide open using a rubber band, cable tie or a friend.
5) Carefully "pop" the oil pump rod off the pin on the throttle body linkage. The rod will probably fall onto the ground under the sled.
6) Once you have the oil pump rod out of the sled, you'll need to loosen the jam nut in order to rotate the rod in or out (which shortens or lengthens the rod). Shortening the rod will increase oil usage (decrease the ratio) and lengthening the rod will decrease oil usage (increase the ratio). One turn on the rod will change the ratio about 8 to 1. So, if the gas to oil ratio is 35 to 1, two turns counterclockwise (lengthen) on the rod will change the ratio to about 50 to 1. You can only make full turn adjustments (because of the way the rod connects on the sled) and I do not recommend turning it more than 2 turns before checking the ratio again. I only turned it one turn, then checked the ratio and then turned it once more. I'm at about 50 to 1 now.
NOTE: I've learned since writing this up a couple of years ago that the oil pump only has 2 levels of output - low and high. By adjusting the rod, all you're doing is moving the throttle position where the pump's output changes from low to high.
7) When you go to put the rod back on, make sure it's it the correct position and snap it back onto the mounting pins. I use a screwdriver on the top pin (then release the throttle lever) and a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze it carefully back onto the oil pump pin. The oil pump arm is pretty flimsy and you can bend it if you push too hard with a screwdriver.
8) When the rod is back in place, check that the throttle works smoothly and that the pump arm is moving with the throttle.
NOTE: The marks on the oil pump arm and pump will not line up. Don't worry about the lines.
9) Now's a good time to do a complete inspection of the hoses and wires running under the engine and to check over the bulkhead for any cracks or other damage.
10) Re-install the belly pan and wait for snow!
11) Once again, check your oil ratio to determine where it's at!
That's about it. Like I said, other people have their method of getting at the oil pump rod but once you have it out, it's all the same.
There are a couple of different ways to go about getting the oil pump rod off and out of the sled. This is my way. (Some people manage to get the rod off from the topside, without removing the bellypan but I can't seem to do it.)
1) Remove the belly pan from under the engine - 10 T-20 Torx screws hold it on. You can either crawl underneath the sled.
2) Locate the oil pump rod. It's connected to the throttle body linkage and to the oil pump. Here's a drawing showing it's orientation to the throttle body linkage. Make a mental note of how the rod is positioned and where it attaches at both ends.
3) Using a flat screwdriver, carefully "pop" the oil pump rod off the oil pump arm. It's just a plastic collar than fits over a ridge on the pin in the arm.
4) Hold the throttle lever wide open using a rubber band, cable tie or a friend.
5) Carefully "pop" the oil pump rod off the pin on the throttle body linkage. The rod will probably fall onto the ground under the sled.
6) Once you have the oil pump rod out of the sled, you'll need to loosen the jam nut in order to rotate the rod in or out (which shortens or lengthens the rod). Shortening the rod will increase oil usage (decrease the ratio) and lengthening the rod will decrease oil usage (increase the ratio). One turn on the rod will change the ratio about 8 to 1. So, if the gas to oil ratio is 35 to 1, two turns counterclockwise (lengthen) on the rod will change the ratio to about 50 to 1. You can only make full turn adjustments (because of the way the rod connects on the sled) and I do not recommend turning it more than 2 turns before checking the ratio again. I only turned it one turn, then checked the ratio and then turned it once more. I'm at about 50 to 1 now.
NOTE: I've learned since writing this up a couple of years ago that the oil pump only has 2 levels of output - low and high. By adjusting the rod, all you're doing is moving the throttle position where the pump's output changes from low to high.
7) When you go to put the rod back on, make sure it's it the correct position and snap it back onto the mounting pins. I use a screwdriver on the top pin (then release the throttle lever) and a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze it carefully back onto the oil pump pin. The oil pump arm is pretty flimsy and you can bend it if you push too hard with a screwdriver.
8) When the rod is back in place, check that the throttle works smoothly and that the pump arm is moving with the throttle.
NOTE: The marks on the oil pump arm and pump will not line up. Don't worry about the lines.
9) Now's a good time to do a complete inspection of the hoses and wires running under the engine and to check over the bulkhead for any cracks or other damage.
10) Re-install the belly pan and wait for snow!
11) Once again, check your oil ratio to determine where it's at!
That's about it. Like I said, other people have their method of getting at the oil pump rod but once you have it out, it's all the same.
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CaribooSlyder
Member
Thanks for the great instructions. I have a m7 le and never thought too much about the oil comsumption. The plugs always seemed to be the right colour.
Never the less I thank you for the effort, very clear and easy to understand.
Never the less I thank you for the effort, very clear and easy to understand.
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- #16
dezmitchell
Active VIP Member
your the man thanks SO MUCH
I take it by tuning your oil injection to the proper ratio you get it more performance and a crisper throttle responce all accross the board
I take it by tuning your oil injection to the proper ratio you get it more performance and a crisper throttle responce all accross the board
My buddy has a 06 X-fire 7. He bought it new in 06. We dialed down the pump last winter. We noticed better upshift all through the power band. His power valves have not gummed up as much and when he starts out of the hole he does not leave a black streak of unburnt oil on the snow. His plugs will last longer also. Doing this to 4 sleds has worked for me. It is not a cost of oil issue, I just want my machine running as efficently as possible.
foothills m8
Active VIP Member
Ride On ,Thanks have a great ride looks like good snow for golden,Happy New Years.
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