M7 Crank,magneto,cylinders Questions

Taylzee

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So the question I find myself asking is why did your original crank snap like that? Did you oil pump fail or what?

I would agree with TROLLCAT on this though. I would go for the line bore. There are lots of reputable motor builders out there that would confirm. But the main point would be that I would be really cranky (HAHA) if I put in all that time and money to have the crank snap again. That crank should be able to spin for alot more than 4000 miles!
 

calgarysledguy

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So the question I find myself asking is why did your original crank snap like that? Did you oil pump fail or what?

I would agree with TROLLCAT on this though. I would go for the line bore. There are lots of reputable motor builders out there that would confirm. But the main point would be that I would be really cranky (HAHA) if I put in all that time and money to have the crank snap again. That crank should be able to spin for alot more than 4000 miles!

The oil pump didnt fail. Everything looks good exept PTO bearing.
I posted why i think it may have snapped.PTO bearing was seized and may have cause it to crack......But I had someone come over to take the clutch off for me last year and a puller and a hammer was used. Not saying that is what caused it, but could have contributed.I really do Thank the guy for going out of his way to get that clutch off for me though.But knowing now how to get a clutch off with a bolt and water.Why would you ever wanna hit the puller with a hammer. Just hard on bearings, alignment pins, everything.
 

TROLLCAT

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dollar value my engine guru said its doable But you would be better off finding a good used set minanm 500.00 bill to do your cases
 

TROLLCAT

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the case dont look to bad from that picture,there must be a index ring on that bearing I try the vidieo again , my new computor duz not do what i think ;damet jim im just the mechanic; :d
 

m turbo

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I have a complete lower unit for a m7. I parted out the sled.Will sell it cheap. You can phone me 1-877-696-7959 toll free..................Marco
 

m turbo

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You can't line bore those cases. Stator wont fit, tried it all ready.Don't use a chinese crank, theres a reason there only 700.00 bucks.
 

Flange99

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We've been removing sled clutches with a puller and a hammer for years. Trust me, cranks don't break like that because of it. BUT, siezed bearings have been breaking cranks for as long as I can remember.

How many miles did you put on it this year before the crank broke?
 

calgarysledguy

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We've been removing sled clutches with a puller and a hammer for years. Trust me, cranks don't break like that because of it. BUT, siezed bearings have been breaking cranks for as long as I can remember.

How many miles did you put on it this year before the crank broke?


10-20 miles.It was its first ride out. Other then going down the back alley....
 

calgarysledguy

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Bearing rusted during the summer, then first ride out, bang. Seen it before. $hitty!

Its possible. But i don't think so .There is no signs of rust anywhere on bearings or anything...... I started the sled up throughout the summer and let it warm right up, not just a 10 second run.Have run 4 sleds since 1979-80 and no problems with a rusted bearing.....
 

calgarysledguy

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That sucks about your crank. But what's the trick with the 9/16 bolt

Go to a bolt store.Get longest 9/16 fine thread bolt you can get. (4 inch is all the store had).Take it and wrap all the threads about 6 times with Teflon tape.Take your primary bolt out of clutch.Tip your sled on its side.Fill the hole were the bolt came out with water.Start threading the Teflon covered bolt in.Grab a ratchet and start tightening it in as fast as you can.It should start getting tough fairly fast hold onto the clutch and keep going.The clutch will pop off and scare the crap out of you.

Just makes sure you don't bottom out threads into the crank(4 inch bolt wont do that) or were the threads stop on the bolt don't hit the threads inside the. clutch.I threaded the bolt in with no Teflon tape first and marked it wear the threads bottomed out so i could gauge it on how far to thread it in.

Good luck. Cheers :beer:
 

calgarysledguy

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Update.

I bought a bottom end from BC.It was shipped DHL.Motor was dropped and a corner broken.I submitted a claim over a week ago.I have phoned,Emailed no replies from DHL.Not impressed.:realmad:
 

calgarysledguy

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Of course. I rant about it then get a email from them 5 min. later.The way it goes....

Darrell,


Your claim has been registered. Your claim number is 10@1 @@@. You will receive a letter via Canada Post once your claim is completed which should be around Feb 11/11, advising the out come.


Sincerely,
Claims Department

I realy hope there is a cheque with that letter.
 

sparky 800

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Thanks for the trick not a big fan of banging on a crank with puller and hammer. Sorry but for bad luck you won't have any luck lol
 

mountain_tamer

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Another way to pull the clutch off is to use your clutch puller and fill the hole in the clutch with grease then screw in your puller and use a big breaker bar and a bar to hold the clutch the grease acts like a hydraulic press and pops right off.

If it is sticky then you can use a little heat to expand the grease.
 
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