Looking for 50 tooth bottom gear

[tex78]

The best setup is to run as close to 1-1 primary/secondary ratio as possible.
The closer the belt is to 1-1 ratio, the faster the sled will go. To get the belt higher in the primary close to a 1-1 ratio, you have to lower(numerically higher) the gears.
I tried every possible T3 174 gear ratio from 2.3 to 3.48. At 3.3gr it started to kill turbos. 3.48 is better but there's more in her. It's still not getting to 1-1 yet but it's close.
That's my experience so far. Your mileage may vary.

What's a stock 16 come with??
Very interested, this good for climbing or tree riding??

 

[bayman]

I ran a 2.73 ratio and liked it a lot, but all the guru's on here said no way, too low, so I changed it out 2.45 just to see. Right away after the change, had unrelated electrical problems that I chased for the rest of last season and never gotta good read. We will see how the 2.58 goes and may go back to the lower gearing. Oh, and a 49 tooth is stock on the bottom....on my 174 anyway.

 

[pfi572]

I ran 2:52 ratio with 8 tooth drivers and 2.5 X 174 .
Clutching needs addressed also when changing ratios. FYI

 

[Bnorth]

Isn't the t3174 geared 51 bottom stock??

What top gear ya got??

19/49 is stock

sorry, what needs to be 1:1? the primary:drivers?

The shift ratio of the clutches.

https://www.ibackshift.com/calculator

I ran a 2.73 ratio and liked it a lot, but all the guru's on here said no way, too low, so I changed it out 2.45 just to see. Right away after the change, had unrelated electrical problems that I chased for the rest of last season and never gotta good read. We will see how the 2.58 goes and may go back to the lower gearing. Oh, and a 49 tooth is stock on the bottom....on my 174 anyway.

You're turbo though

 

[pfi572]

IMO also a 19 tooth top gear is getting too small for big tracks.
Can get ratio with bigger bottom at top .

 

[deaner]

I have a hard time believing that over a 3:1 ratio is going to work? I can’t tell if Kanedog is on to something or if he is just being Kanedog and messing with people. Haha. Weren’t people gearing the 174s up a bit from stock and seeing gains?

 

[sc800]

I have 2 2015 T3 174's. They came with 19/49 stock. One is running 20/49 now and the other is running 19/51 with 8 tooth drivers.

 

[bayman]

I have 2 2015 T3 174's. They came with 19/49 stock. One is running 20/49 now and the other is running 19/51 with 8 tooth drivers.

which do you prefer?

 

[sc800]

The one with the 19/51 also has a Baker rear arm and my other sled will not touch it in a climb either will my other riding buddies stock T3's. But I for sure like the 20/49 over the 19/49 though.

 

[tex78]

Well w. T. F guys, gear up or gear down a stock t3174, lmfao

 

[mountainsledmania]

Kanedog would you be so kind as to explain what your talking about? because im trying to figure it out in my head and its not making sense...... at say 3.0 over 2.5... wouldn't you just make alota noise and not go anywhere?

 

[kanedog]

Kanedog would you be so kind as to explain what your talking about? because im trying to figure it out in my head and its not making sense...... at say 3.0 over 2.5... wouldn't you just make alota noise and not go anywhere?

We can assume a 174" 3" track....
A 3.5 geared sled is 83kmh at 1-1.
A 2.5 geared sled is 115kmh at 1-1.
But, the 2.5 sled will never reach 115kmh or 1-1 because it is geared too high. It might get to 60 or 70kmh track spèed in a steep climb.
Now take the 3.5 sled up the same hill. It holds a constant 83kmh and it keeps going frwd. The clutches are cool, there is instant backshift and its super responsive. 83kmh beats a 60kmh track speed all day.
As an added bonus, 3.5 gear ratio gives more traction as the track is not spinning up super fast and trenching. I think super low gearing would be so perfect for tree riding.
I hope that makes sense.

 

[mountainsledmania]

We can assume a 174" 3" track....
A 3.5 geared sled is 83kmh at 1-1.
A 2.5 geared sled is 115kmh at 1-1.
But, the 2.5 sled will never reach 115kmh or 1-1 because it is geared too high. It might get to 60 or 70kmh track spèed in a steep climb.
Now take the 3.5 sled up the same hill. It holds a constant 83kmh and it keeps going frwd. The clutches are cool, there is instant backshift and its super responsive. 83kmh beats a 60kmh track speed all day.
As an added bonus, 3.5 gear ratio gives more traction as the track is not spinning up super fast and trenching. I think super low gearing would be so perfect for tree riding.
I hope that makes sense.

... ok you've caught my attention enough to give this a test. how does the clutching work for gearing like this? do you have to modify it?

 

[knocksum]

I have a hard time believing that over a 3:1 ratio is going to work? I can’t tell if Kanedog is on to something or if he is just being Kanedog and messing with people. Haha. Weren’t people gearing the 174s up a bit from stock and seeing gains?

If you are gearing up and seeing gains that is an indication that secondary clutching is off. I would be interested to see some pictures of primary clutch sheaves. This tells you where your belt spends majority of its time. Most modern mountain sleds have the secondary too stiff causing these issues. Ie. Strong spring and steep helix angles. If we went back to shallow angles and lighter springs, some big gains would be had and belt life would significantly increase.

 

[deaner]

If you are gearing up and seeing gains that is an indication that secondary clutching is off. I would be interested to see some pictures of primary clutch sheaves. This tells you where your belt spends majority of its time. Most modern mountain sleds have the secondary too stiff causing these issues. Ie. Strong spring and steep helix angles. If we went back to shallow angles and lighter springs, some big gains would be had and belt life would significantly increase.

So is the theory that full shift is the most efficient place to be sound? Just wondering if it is one of many different approaches, or would most good clutch tuners agree with this?

 

[knocksum]

The belt riding at the top of the sheaves has the most belt squeeze. The bottom 1/3rd of the clutch is where most of the belt slippage occurs.

I have seen too many sleds that only use half of the primary.

 

[pfi572]

Boy oh boy ?
Mark the chive with felt marker and make a pull on the hill .
Check and see how much is cleaned off after a pull.
If your clean to within a inch of the top your very close to 1 /1

 

[Turts]

I always thought mid point in both clutches was where they clamp nice and hard and have the best chance at staying cooler?
But Kane’s logic is not lost on me.
Very interesting......

 

[pfi572]

Mid point would be if both clutch’s were same diameter.