rmkrennyguy
Member
I got a 2011 rmk pro 800 all stock and I want to install a 6 inch light bar with stock headlights as well no electric start anybody know how to go upon wiring this??
Light bar on 2011 rmk pro
- Thread starter rmkrennyguy
- Start date
Splice into the wiring for the headlights or the dash, one power and one ground. should be it. If you are wiring in a separate switch for the light bar then you'll just have to run power to the switch first. 6" light bar should be good for the wattage you need, probably around 18W.
- Thread starter
- #3
rmkrennyguy
Member
Right on thank you this won't effect my stator or anything
?
?
OnlyPolaris
Active VIP Member
Most of the power on the pro is ac current. The dc current that is on the pro isn't enough to properly power a light bar. So you either need to wire a rectifier in between your light and power source or find a light with an internal rectifier.
That sucks, most are using a DC system now that is rectified right away. Not a big deal to wire in a rectifier, search it on here under my user name, takes about 20 mins and cost is under $5. That said, would have thought the system could handle a 15 to 20 Watt LED light bar, most 6" bars don't draw more than that. The headlights should be 55/65 (ish) Watt bulbs X 2 = 120 watts......so marginally more to run the light bar? Admittedly I don't know the Polaris' that well but haven't heard of guys upgrading the stator to run a turbo and all the extra's that come with it.
OnlyPolaris
Active VIP Member
Yes very easy to wire them in. Also being you have an older 2011. You will have no issues with the stator or voltage regulator.
DankAssault15
New member
Howdy guys I'm new to the forum and I'm not sure where else to post this, so I apologize for digging up and old thread lol. But I'd like to wire an LED pod light w/switch onto my '15 Switchy Assault. I wired it into the plug by the clutches labelled "DC PWR" with a 2amp inline fuse. Light works fine but when I use the switch to shut off the pod the dash also shuts off and starts back up when I flip the switch back on. Any ideas as to why? Removed everything in the meantime just in case lol
I believe you used the port for the dealer to power up the electronics for testing. It is not fused so good job adding one. But you are likely connecting to the ecu and gauges. The acc port above the cluch is also not fused and used for testing purpose and is AC power.
But There is a fused 12 volt accessory power connection up behind the headlights. It’s good for 2 amps. Should be enough for a pod. If you need more power it gets more complicated as most of the power on the sled is AC.
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