Jack shaft and drive shaft bearings/ C3 synchro drive!

[yammyman]

Is it absolutely necessary to take the seals out of these bearings, clean them, regresse them and reinstall the seals. They're sealed bearings... Has anyone actually done this when installing the C3 kit.

Has anyone actually removed the bolts and reloctited them after 5 rides as well? I've loctited all required bolts with plenty of time to cure and torqued to proper specs...

Just curious if anyone has had any issues with these bolts or the bearings?

thanks

 

[maxwell]

Is it even possible to do that without damaging them

 

[oler1234]

Are you taking about the chaincase seals or the actual bearings. The seals would need grease as they are normally lubercated by chaincase oil. The bearings are sealed, if pull them out, just get new ones.

 

[rsaint]

In the zx and rev the bearing seal is to the inside of the chaincase an open bearing to the outside against the chaincase seal.

 

[LBZ]

Once the bolts are loctited and torqued I wouldn't touch them. Thats the reason for the loctite. If anything I would torque them up initially, back them off and re-torque right away and maybe check the torque after a few rides but I certainly would not remove the bolt after the loctite sets up. You would need to clean all the old loctite out of the threads if you did.
Even at that I'm not sure I would re torque once loctited. If your wrench or you is off and you tighten a little more you would break the loctite bond.

 

[yammyman]

I talked to Kevin a C3 yesterday... He said he has has seen bearings fail after only a couple hundred miles. He claims that the oil does find its way into the bearing and washes out the original grease (this makes sense especially if the seal is only on one side of the bearing, like on the older sleds). Kevin said he's never had a brand new bearing apart to see if the original grease would suffice (with no miles on the sled the grease would likely not have washed out yet). But he strongly recommends checking them anyway.

I forgot to take pics, but my sled is brand new and the bearings did have sufficient grease. (I pulled my seals with a pic. It can be done with no damage). I did however add a tiny bit more just to be sure. IMO it would be a smart idea to check these bearings, as per the kit install instructions.

 

[Caper11]

Dont touch the seals in the bearings, you'll do more harm than good. Its not necessary to regrease them. If your concerned just buy new bearings.
Opps never mind I see in the other post that you already did.

 

[yammyman]

Over 150 km on the new xm and no issues yet. I'll try to keep you posted!

 

[yammyman]

C3 belt drive is working great!

 

[rsaint]

What ratio u using thinking of 1 also have a 13 163

 

[POWDERSLUT]

i had a bearing fail on me last year and strip the splines on the top sprocket,,kevin said to me that i should get a needle and inject the bearings with more grease..then yesterday i had a gates belt blow apart on me ,that belt had maybe 1000 k on it..

 

[fredw]

we also had a new gates blow apart last week on a xm, keven is pushing the over tightening theory, but we had looked at it a few mornings before and it looked good, basically run it as loose as you can with out jumping the cogs, that loose

 

[POWDERSLUT]

i had my gates belt real loose,,got 2 of these mitsubishi belts now and they have to be a bit tighter as the cogs on the belt wont seat quite right if it is run looser,,,if these blow ,,this set up will b in the classifieds..

 

[fredw]

i had the new style mitisubusi belt on the 880 two weeks ago, had less than 100 miles and keven was happy with the tension, next day it jumped cogs half way threw day... made me nervious as hell, but tightened up some and it is still on sled, so we will see how well it lasts

i had called mitisubusi about their belts and they told me to run it approx 1/8 play with 150 lbs force applied this is alot tighter than keven is saying... he feels this belts heat up some and tension changes under loads

 

[POWDERSLUT]

when i was at kevins house on thursday evening he said that mitsubishi belt is the only one that would last on the proclimb belt drive as the secondary moves around with the rubber mounts,,i sure hope it lasts,,

 

[Caper11]

i had my gates belt real loose,,got 2 of these mitsubishi belts now and they have to be a bit tighter as the cogs on the belt wont seat quite right if it is run looser,,,if these blow ,,this set up will b in the classifieds..

There is a problem right there!! If a sheave is designed for one belt, another belt will not work. For instance a gates eliminator with the green cogs is only ment for eliminator sprockets. The cogs have to match the profile and pitch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[yammyman]

What ratio u using thinking of 1 also have a 13 163

Sorry for the slow response, I'm trying to catch up on all my posts and I've a bit over zealous at times, lol, but I love to write and read posts!

25 top 65 bottom (this was Kevin's best recommendation, if only using one set of gears, to ride between 2000- 10000 ' elevation) seems to be working good for me but I've only ridden 6 times!

 

[yammyman]

Over 300km on my synchro and no loose nuts, bolts or belt and bearings are holding grease nicely!

 

[08summit]

2000 miles on mine and never an issue...running it on a 2012 163 summit

 

[xmdb]

any pics of install on 2013 xm not sure how top gear goes on, thanks